bushnut

I couldn't remember what I used so I checked my NISSAN owners manual, it calls for Nisan Matic "D" or Canada nissan auto trans fluid or DEXTRON 3/MERCON. there is a pinned how to topic in the R50 section.

I usually check local then end up buying from Autopartsway.ca they seem to be quite a bit less expensive than local.

did this happen suddenly? have you done a compression test? is there fuel going to 1,3,5? more info please.

It's part of the regularly scheduled maintenance. I'm not sure on the actual numbers, I'll have to check my manual. however plugs and wires do wear out over time and will not deliver the same hot spark they did when new. my engine was idling funny for quite some time, not missing it just sounded like one or more cylinders were not firing properly, OBD2 through a Knock Sensor code, so I asked myself....Self, is the sensor bad or is it detecting a knock? I had changed the plugs last year but due to budgetary constraints I hadn't done the wires. so I did along with the distributor cap and rotor. Check out my build thread for some photos of the rotor it was all charged on the end and the contacts inside the cap were covered with a sort of scaling. no doubt about it there is a difference now. she purrs like a kitten and I have noticed better acceleration through 1st and 2nd gear. also my exhaust no longer smells like unburned fuel on cold start ups. I cleared the knock sensor code and it hasn't come back. well see if she gets better fuel economy as well.

I'm running LEGOS on my R50 with 31s, I've got 1.5in wheel spacers and lift springs and spacers.

nothing is as good as the originals, I"d source some at the JY. not to say you did wrong but this could have been avoided by installing new boots and grease when you put in your suspension upgrades. not really that hard to do and cheep considering the boots are about $16 each form NAPA.

and the Canadian Contingent grows by one. Welcome.

If you look at the lists, almost everything is just wear related parts. keep in mind my vehicle is 15 years old with 240,000ish Km

congrats dude! that kids got some big mitts.

mine used to do that until I found a couple of vaccume lines that were not connected.

they are a universal fit from summit racing I don't have the part# but I think they are about 2" wide. I screwed and Glued them on (high strength marine epoxy) I figure by the time the come off the rest of the truck will be dead too.

oh and the never ending battle with rust....Nissan Strut tower reinforcement last year.

well, I bought my '00 three years ago, first thing I did was fluids, Trans, diffs, and with timeing belt/water pump and a couple of tensioner pullys, new coolant. next was springs and shocks/struts. turned out my shocks were to short for the lift springs (IronMan) so new rear Bilstien 5160 shocks. The KYB struts I installed didn't last more than a year and a half. so currantly I've got one new KYB and one Monroe. so far so good. New sparkplugs the second year, #6 is a bitch and probably had never been changed. wheel spacers came next with an upgrade to old school "lego" wheels and 31x10.5x15 Treadwright Guard Dog tires. Last year also had a Cat back exhaust insalled with slightly larger than stock pipes. had to be done as it was all original and looked like swiss cheese. had an 02 sensor replaced at the same time. a couple of CV boots have been done, a battery this winter ,and as of late new spark plug wires, rotor and cap as well as brake pads and rotors, and while I was at it repacked the bearings. most of the parts I've replaced seem to have been stock with the exception of maybe the brake pads. so after 15 year not so bad after all. Oh and add to the list oil changes every 4-5000 Km. I bought the truck at 207000 Ish and now she's at 230000 ish. oh and I've replaced both front fenders from Junk yard scores as they looked like rats had been chewing on them.( had to paint them black myself, don't look to close) . added some fender flares to cover the extended tire poke. next on the list is new (old) rear window wiper motor, and U joints for the rear drive shaft. about what I figured for an old truck with little or minimal maintanence done before I bought it. she's never let me down yet and I've never had her stuck either. So far we look after eachother. some where along the line I installed a factory transfer case skid plate and a 4x4parts front skid as well. this is what she looks like lately.

after see what every one else watches. I think we are all the same person. though I'll have to add Forgoten Weapons on youtube as well.

more pics please!

more like wheel backspacing.

new EBC brake pads and NAPA rotors as well as repacked front hubs. Its very nice being able to stop again.

new NGK plug wires, rotor and cap... the old ones were still stock:( . went for a test ride and I could actually tell the difference. Tomorrow, front brake pads.

man thats a tough decision. I've always liked your truck. I suppose it all depends on how bad the cancer is. if it's real bad I'd find a newer one and transfer the bumper/SFD and whatever other goodies you've got in there over and maybe keep the rear head rests as a memento.

there are plenty of threads on this site that will answer your questions as far as lifts go. Read through the R50 section . I'd look through the members rides section as well to get some ideas. in fact check out mine as it is the same year as yours. as far as reliability goes, change all your fluids and you are getting close to the recommended timing belt and water pump replacement schedule. I'd do that first before I did anything else.

i'm with Rebelord, I'm running the Iron Man springs as well....though I have 2 inch strut spacers. even fully loaded the truck rides awsome. smooth over railroad tracks and speed humps, good wheel articulation in technical terrain and the the hood stays level when on an on/off ramp. very little body roll.

vibrations can be anything form bad cv's to bad tires, or struts, even a loose bolt. I'd look at it one item at a time. re-torque all the fasteners first. maybe rotate your tires, check cv's. basicly brake it down to identify the problem. I had horrible vibrations at high way speeds after my lift install with wheel spacers. turned out it was a bad new strut. You'll figure it out. just take your time.

ask fleurys....aka...4x4designs.com

jacked and blacked...just the way I like it.

nissan Xtrail.....Honda CRV...Toyota Rav 4....and "Gasp" Ford Escape...there are thousands of all of these tooling around, I haven't driven any of them but parts shouldn't be hard to find.