bushnut

if in the future any part of your truck is leaking, think of it as bleeding precious bodily fluid. No good will come of it.

go outside to your truck stand on the bumper or trailer hitch and try and bounce it... if it is easy to push up and down your shocks are dead. the springs are there to support the weight of the vehicle, the shocks control how fast everything moves up and down. when they are dead the springs are overwhelmed by the speed of the rear end moving up and then the rubber bump stops are smashed by the rear axle. the rear shocks are fairly easy to replace yourself.

every time I've replaced my struts (twice now) the camber has been awful when I took the truck off the jack....just drove it around the block once or twice and everything settled back to normal. no more camber issues. I'm running Ironman lift springs and 2 inches of spacers up front with 31's and no camber issues truck drives arrow straight. tire wear is normal. CV joint angle is another story though.

there has been a few folks who have done this for a 2wd, making a pre runner of sorts, not sure about 4wd though, wouldn't you also need to lengthen the axles as well as TRE?

I really want to see a pic of your truck man, sounds awesome. you might get some rubbing at full lock, it will be worth it. I get some rubbing in reverse at full lock with my 31s on Legos on my lifted R50(2000).

I got my NGK plugs at Canadian Tire for about $5.00ea. as for wires, haven't changed them yet, but I'd probably go to my local auto parts store.

uniform tire wear is only accomplished by regular tire rotation.

looks good to me, my only advice would be to water proof the hell out of it. so you don't get any corrosion down inside that area.

going from P245/70/16 (29ish) to 31x10.5x15 C rated tire(heavier) my in town milage has suffered about 2points while my highway driving hasn't changed a bit.

bigger is better.

do you have wheel spacers? the studs on mine were to long for the nuts so I ended up drilling the ends of the nuts out.

That's odd as most of the 2001+ have a dash mounted dial switch with an "auto" mode that would make your storey a little easier to diagnose. I'd crawl underneath and look at the shifter linkage, It's pretty LO TeK . Can't for the life of me understand why it would shift auto style. The dash mounted dial switch has an "auto" mode that might have a sensor that is having hicups. but the shift on the floor system is pretty simple. sorry I can't help in this situation.

now that I've replaced the sway arm bushing everything seams to be quiet. $7ish in pats $14shipping and an hours work has fixed the problem. I will be replacing both LCA and bushings sometime before spring but only because they are almost 15yrs old not because they are worn out.

4wd selector on the floor next to the shifter or a dial switch on the dash?

2005 350z LSD rear diff, will it fit in the front end of my 2000 R50? there is one for sale locally for $150.00. should I pounce on this?

just did this job today, took about an hour. thanks for the post it was very helpful.

well after looking at it in the daylight, It is the driver side Lower control arm bushing (the front one). anybody have a favourite brand? or are they all the same?

so IT'S developed a new clunk.....if I make short/quick, left and right turns (just janking the steeing wheel left and right) It goes clunk. so far I've got new struts, new sway bar end links, new ball joints. this weekend will be changing sway bar bushings. If that doesn't work,how can I tell if its either TRE or Steering rack bushings?

now we finally have someone to blame!

read this thread. http://www.nissanpat...50/?hl=limiting oh and btw welcome.

could be injector noise. Mine had that, I ran a bottle of Gummout through it and it's quiet now. though I do hear a ticking sound at idle when I'm getting close to my oil change interval. I figure it's low oil pressure and i'm hearing the lifters. new oil and it goes away.

cleaned it, and set up my winter survival kit.

yup! this ain't no prius. nobody buys an older 4x4 because of their great fuel economy.( newer engine technology not withstanding)

welcome... I'd do all the fluids while your at it. Both diffs, transfer case, transmission, and brake. also plugs (#6 can be a b*$tch), wires and air filter. as for the rear shocks. what brand? could be you've got the dreaded death wobble, which is related to the bushings of the rear control arms. or it could be just bad shocks. I've had to replace my front struts (kyb) twice now in only 2 years. Sometimes they just don't build them like they used to . and remember any questions you may have, will have already been asked so make use of the search function. in any case we're always glade to help. oh and we love pictures!