bushnut

so did you get out?

I'm running IronMan springs (35mm front lift- 50mm rear) as well as 2 on inch strut spacers (1 Fleurys and 1 NX4) when on jack stands at full droop my CVs bind, driving around town everything is fine. I'll be doing a 2" Sub Frame Drop come spring to fix the problem. as well as longer brake lines. running 31x10.5x15 Treadwright Guard Dog tires

yup and on an R50, I kind liked the retro look, and I got them cheep,$50 for all 4. the tires are treadwright Guard Dogs with kedge grip, 31x10.5.15 put them on in sept. so far I'm loving them. Woops, should have had a few more sips of coffee before posting,

nothing about that terminal looks like it needs replacing....I'd just give it a scrub with a wire brush, same for the clamp. then use a little dielectric grease when putting it all back together. If you've been having starting issues, have you checked the condition of the battery? just a small drop in voltage can make every thing real crappy.

struts? mine shimmied horribly until I replaced them.

lookin' good. just what i wanted. I will absolutely have to revisit this in the spring.

also known as "Donner cycles" in emergency wards.

this is what I tried to do. you'll need to grab the wiring harness that goes with it. it fallows the roof liner and goes down the A pillar. I figured all the trucks would be wired alike. Nope. Also, while you'd think the body panels would be the same between Pathfinder and QX4 they are not. I replaced my driver side front fender with one off of a same year QX4 and lo and behold it fit but the marker light is a different shape so there is a 3/4 in gap that I filled with metal tape and black paint. and the fender top line does not match the hood line there is a slight hump (about 1/4in) that sits a little higher than the hood. there are very slight differences between Pathfinder and QX4.

99 build date, registered as a 2000, has passenger key cylinder.

condenser should be the same.... as for the climate control, I don't know. I tried to install the mirror and digital compass/clock from a qx4 into my LE however I didn't have the wiring harness and sensors that go along with it.

if in the future any part of your truck is leaking, think of it as bleeding precious bodily fluid. No good will come of it.

go outside to your truck stand on the bumper or trailer hitch and try and bounce it... if it is easy to push up and down your shocks are dead. the springs are there to support the weight of the vehicle, the shocks control how fast everything moves up and down. when they are dead the springs are overwhelmed by the speed of the rear end moving up and then the rubber bump stops are smashed by the rear axle. the rear shocks are fairly easy to replace yourself.

every time I've replaced my struts (twice now) the camber has been awful when I took the truck off the jack....just drove it around the block once or twice and everything settled back to normal. no more camber issues. I'm running Ironman lift springs and 2 inches of spacers up front with 31's and no camber issues truck drives arrow straight. tire wear is normal. CV joint angle is another story though.

that just made my morning. welome.

there has been a few folks who have done this for a 2wd, making a pre runner of sorts, not sure about 4wd though, wouldn't you also need to lengthen the axles as well as TRE?

I really want to see a pic of your truck man, sounds awesome. you might get some rubbing at full lock, it will be worth it. I get some rubbing in reverse at full lock with my 31s on Legos on my lifted R50(2000).

I got my NGK plugs at Canadian Tire for about $5.00ea. as for wires, haven't changed them yet, but I'd probably go to my local auto parts store.

uniform tire wear is only accomplished by regular tire rotation.

looks good to me, my only advice would be to water proof the hell out of it. so you don't get any corrosion down inside that area.

going from P245/70/16 (29ish) to 31x10.5x15 C rated tire(heavier) my in town milage has suffered about 2points while my highway driving hasn't changed a bit.

bigger is better.

brakes are for quitters.

do you have wheel spacers? the studs on mine were to long for the nuts so I ended up drilling the ends of the nuts out.

being in a rust state. I'd check for rust in the strut towers. there is a sticky thread on here somewhere. If all is good I'd go to town with a few cans of your favourite rust inhibitor. oh and lets see some pics please.