Pav

Yeah...you are much better off getting headers that already coated. The cost here in Montreal to get headers coated is nuts. My mechanic just had a set done for a customer and got charged $500 CDN. The shop actually wanted to charge him $600 but he negotiated it down. Bear in mind these were a huge set of headers for a muscle car but even he was shocked.

If you can't find it just PM me and I'll send it to you. I have both service manuals.

Damn and it has the same 0-60 time as a WD21 ... lol I've seen some amazing new technology that removes the need for traditional spark plugs creating a 60% more efficient use of fuel. The technology is out there...the large automaker(s), big oil and government are holding up progress. The greatest barrier to entry is the status quo.

Welcome to the club...in your neck of the woods there are always great finds that come up. I'm on the east coast and was considering shipping a few I found. Keep checking in California and Arizona on craigslist etc...there are a few sites that mash up all the listings so you don't have to search each site individually. When you are checking out your finds you can tell pretty easily with a visual inspection to see if the exhaust manifold studs are coming off or even there...lol. Bring a flash light and look all the way down the exhaust system...they tend to also rot in the down pipe. As far as headers...this in on my soon to do list. There are not too many options and for you in California with emission standards you should look into the Doug Thorley headers. My only advice is try to find an SE instead of an XE...you get some more creature comforts and LSD in the rear. Check out this build for products you might be interested in. http://www.motoiq.com/projects/nissan/project_nissan_pathfinder.aspx Cheers

I hear what you are saying with them collecting stuff from the roads. On that model the flaps are more ornamental than functional. I would replace them with some Rally flaps. You don't want to be the guy on the highway tossing up rocks at other's wind shields. The Rally flaps are pliable so no worries wheeling and they give much better coverage to keep the back end of your truck cleaner.

Lol...you beat me to it...I was going to say you can get the factory switch from Alkorahil.

Here you go http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b484/Pavfinder/2013-02-12083734_zps1f971c51.jpg

Well its not a knob ...its a horizontal wheel that is in the top row of the centre console. If you go on Cardomain there are plenty of interior pics where you can see. It really doesn't make much of a difference in terms of the degree it dims unless you have LED's lighting your instrument cluster. I'm stepping out in a bit so I'll also take a pic for you...Cheers

Power antennas are just a PITA...if you notice modern vehicles no longer use them. I would just replace it with a stubby and save yourself the hassle. If you are really worried about radio reception you can attach a whip antenna to your rear bumper. I find the antenna in the wind shield is enough to get good reception..you really don't need the power wand.

Sounds like an interesting deal. I've purchased a car (his personal) from a taxi driver before and they tend to take very good if not excellent care of their vehicles. I'm assuming its a rear drive vehicle...if so (barring some accident) they tend to stay pretty tight...I have a friend that has rolled over 900k on a bunch of rear drive Mercedes. He buys them used with a lot kms (200k +) and keeps racking up crazy kms everyday to his plastics factory. Ultimately, if this vehicle was used to transport people back and forth from the airport...you are probably looking at a nice ride. You know your roads bests but if it was a highway cruiser the body should still be good...you can tell us how she rides once you take her for a test drive. Cheers

Nice to see you stuck with Chromium tints all around Nice tank strip too...welcome to the club.

I see them on the road in Montreal all year...it hurts to see them go though our rough winters but also good to see they can take the punishment... I wonder how much a winter tire set up would cost...lol

From my winter driving experience what you are seeing is a normal dip in fuel economy. We have been going through a deep freeze on the East coast -25 C and my fuel numbers have dipped as well. Almost exactly the same numbers. My only advice would be to consider adding a block heater. I'm going to install one myself this spring. I've had block heaters on all my previous WD21's and noticed that it makes a big difference in keeping fuel economy consistent during the winter months. For now you can use some cardboard to block up the grill to try and keep your engine warm. Cheers

Welcome and nice ride Please post some pics of it soon. Cheers

For just a few days you will be fine...just take it to a car wash that gives it a good blast of water or just do it yourself. Its crazy how much salt builds up on cars by the sea/ocean. There was a thread on here about the Nissan Hardbody's they use for beach patrol having their computers sealed up with plastic bags but that was because they were constantly having water drip on them from the lifeguards. Have fun at the beach...should make for some good pics. Cheers

Yup...we are a unique group on the roads and off That's its allure...when I get an oil change at a Nissan Dealership its fun to watch all the mechanics come and gather around to admire my '95. Have fun with your Classic Truck...hope you keep it on the road for many fun filled years to come

Holy...lol...that's a racing slick...you drive over some bird droppings with that rubber and you will loose control. What did the other tires look like?

Welcome to the Club and to Canada For Vancouver weather and type of use you have planned I would say the Michelin LTX A/T. I have a set on my truck and have to say they are nice on the highway and good in the snow. I would keep an eye out on Kijiji for some deals.

I had the same hill problems until I checked out all my vacuum hoses...Carbon Canister vacuum port to Throttle body had a tiny tear in it...after I replaced it...no more hill problems or getting it up to highway speeds and big fuel economy gain. I clean my MAF with a spray cleaner...like the others have mentioned...just be careful with it...disconnect the battery first...remove the housing on top...unscrew the two screws and 10-15 shots of the cleaner...give it enough time to fully dry...I wait about 30 mins...and reassemble. Hope you solve your problem...the diagram in the FSM for the Vacuum Hoses - EC 7

Please do ask your uncle. If he can remember what he did with modifying it to the ECU I think he can generate a lot of business here from other form members that would love to be close to your numbers. Thanks for sharing...cheers

Found the source of my fuel consumption problem...it was one of my vacuum tubes - Carbon Canister vacuum port to throttle body to be exact. Thanks again for all the inputs...cheers EC pg.7 if you guys want the Vacuum Hose drawing

Thanks for all the help...ends up its just one of my belts that when cold produces the noise...once the engine temp starts to rise the noise goes totally away...its nothing serious and the belt is still in good condition so no need to replace it at this point in time. Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Really depends on how dirty it is underneath...mine is full of rustproofing so it took some more time to clean the area...otherwise its quite easy and outlined in the Service Manual. Just be gentle with your new one when putting it in and make sure you disconnect your battery before you work on it.

I remember the 2 door in '89 had a really nice Silver as an option never to be seen again...I'll look to see if I still have the dealer brochure and scan it so you can see.