Pav

What kind of tyres you running on there? The Plum Crazy Purple looks good

If the cushions are still good then I would just toss over a sheepskin cover. I have a set on mine and it is super comfortable in both hot and cold weather. I found mine at a thrift store. They were supposed to be for a Mercedes S class but still fit perfectly.

From what I can tell using the info on AT 40 and your info I think its - 5th judgement flicker is longer than others...Shift solenoid valve B circuit is short circuited or disconnected.

Welcome back. Show us some pics of this rust that concerns you and then we can help you better.

If you want to go with a solid color my first choice would be silver. Nissan had the '89 2 door in a really nice frost silver. Second choice would be charcoal and third option would be the green I have...lol. The other options would be to go 2 tone. Black top and silver bottom or Red and Silver. The Desert Runner idea is cool. I've seen it done but not sure how your wife would like driving in it, or maybe that's the idea...lol. Check out all the new plastidip colors...I'm sure there is something that you will like and give you a unique look.

I agree with going the synthetic route. Save on the weight and just use it within its limits. I saw this video a little while back on Winch Recovery Setups I found informative.

I have had the same problem. Adamzan's advice is best. You want to check out the seals first. It is a 20 year old A/C system after all. You can get a $5 set from any auto parts store. Replace those first and then add your refrigerant in a can. You can get it working with just injecting more but it will leak and be back at square one pretty quickly.

Was your truck always idling high...like when you first bought it? I would clean the Throttle body and MAF first and then do an idle adjustment. When I cleaned mine the idle shot up so I also did the adjustment in the FSM. Yeah the IACV is a pain to figure out from the service manual...but once you locate it you will never forget its spot.

Reach out to Alkorhil aka Rob here on the forum. I got my replacement moulding from him. I would take it to have it professionally installed, you want to make sure its stuck on there well. It won't cost much and they have the proper adhesives to keep it locked in place.

I think he is referring to the fact that his tires now extend past the fender flairs, which I'm pretty sure is illegal in Canada and the US if its registered for the street. The only time I've heard of people getting busted is coming out of spots the cops know people go mudding. They sit and wait for trucks to come out to check for fenders and to make sure they are not tracking back too much mud back on the highway.

Final Verdict - rear ABS was added to the WD21 starting 07/90. If your vehicle was made after that date you have it.

You can use all your original accessories with the VG33 block. There are lots of members that have done it and have great detailed write ups. You can also Google it to find other write ups on how others have done it 'NissanNut'. You would want to find an Xterra or Frontier VG33 to make it the easiest...you won't have problems with the oil pan clearance. Here is one example...but you can find many others here using the search function. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31418-building-a-vg34-and-installing-it-in-my-88-pathy/?hl=vg34

Perfect time for the VG33 upgrade and enjoy some more ponies.

ABS might have started after the '90 model...both were full loaded manual SE models...and the '90 had a Nissan tow option. I'm going to keep researching this one...I still have old dealer pamphlets I'm going to dig up to confirm what years had this option. Or Nissan guru Rob can tell us...lol. End of the day, the ABS on these trucks is useless and only in the rear so its better to just forget its even there and drive old school with threshold braking.

I had an '88 and '90 WD21 and don't remember either having the rear ABS as part of the brakes.

If the $160 includes dropping the tank that is a good price. When he drops it you should replace the rubber hoses that go to the tank. The vapour line is particularly known to deteriorate. Realistically, you are dealing with a 20 year old vehicle so these rubber items should all just be replaced to be safe. Dropping the tank...safety wise he does have a point but I've seen people using wet towels to cover the fuel tank and didn't blow up.

If that is the case then you can work this one from the inside out. Remove the driver's seat and get the carpet up. You are now experienced at tapping away to remove the rust. Me thinks there will be a hole there near the gas peddle. Once you got the area cleaned up to where you have bare metal I would use some rust arrest liquid of your choice on the edges. Now you can either weld in a new piece or bolt it in if that is easier. Seal up the edges where it meets and you should be good for a long time. If you are very ambitious you can also add some sound deadening material there from 3M since the carpet will be up. Might as well check out the Y pipe to see if its still intact too as well as those pesky Manifold studs.

Yup its fixable, you seem to have enough to weld to. I would ask around first to find a place willing to do it without the truck there with you. In many jurisdictions its not legal to repair a frame and then have it on public roads. You might have to find some guys that do farm repair to get it done Technically, the person/dealer should have never sold you the truck. Thanks for the updated pics...my thumb was getting itchy...wanted to push through that rust with it. I've checked out my fair share of WD21s for rust until I found mine. You might want to also get under the truck and check the floor behind the Y pipe of the exhaust, give it a tap and see how strong it is there. Its a heat point on these trucks and tends to rot the floor panel in that area.

The body looks pretty clean but since you are doing a rust check...one area that is hidden but needs to be checked is next to the passenger side wind shield area. You have to remove the vents first to access the other parts...its pretty straight forward. Check both sides to be sure there is no rust forming under the wind shield, otherwise one good bump and the entire thing can crack.

Firstly, welcome to the club. Secondly, I would check out the rest of that frame with a small hammer. From the looks of your pics I think you are going to find some more perforation close to the area you have exposed already. The bottom part of that frame looks like its ready to go. Good news is it seems like the damage is localized and repairable. These trucks get a lot of dirt build up in there from the rear wheels kicking it up. While you have that opening I would take a hose and run water through there and clean it out well by pushing the hose down the length of the frame...keep an eye out underneath and clean out all the drainage holes as the debris gets push down. I put my truck up on risers and let gravity help move the junk out of there. End of the day you have to maintain your frame by cleaning it at least once a year when you live in the rust belt.

No worries...hope this solves your problem. My money is on the fuel sending unit which is something you can do yourself if you are careful. Just keep in mind you are working next to an open fuel tank to get it out so all the normal spark and flame precautions apply.

From what I see its all outlined in the FSM - EL 58 - 59 for your model year.

If you are asking where to locate the Fuel Sending Unit...its attached to the fuel pump in the gas tank. Its not too difficult to get to. There is a trap door in the trunk area that you can open up to access it. Search around here on the forum I remember seeing a very good write up.

The WD21 and R51 are the only models with a frame. The R50 and current R52 are unibody. Its easy to tell by taking a peek underneath which trucks have a frame.

Out of curiosity does your horn work? If not, I might have the solution to your problem. I had a similar dilemma with my cruise control. It ended up being the contacts behind the clock ring in the steering wheel which was easy enough to fix by cutting some copper tubing to lengthen the contact.