devonianwalk

I have a 1000w inverter that I simply connect to my existing amp cables. I have to remove my sub to make my tailgating set up fit any way. I know your looking for where to permanently mount yours but, thought I'd share my temporary set up. This pic was taken several years ago (pre-lift) at a soccer game in Charleston, SC. Usually we just set it up for the day long football tailgates.

x2

Man, I'd love a rack. To dang close to Christmas though. Hopefully the wife will fire up my PC and lurk here!

I had a faulty alarm brain that wouldn't stop trying to start my engine. Almost wrecked my starter. Most alarms have an engine kill feature to prevent a thief from driving off so, yeah, if the brain is bad then maybe that could be your problem.

Glad to hear she purrs again. I'll bet you have a little bit of a whine that will go away in a week or so of steady driving. From what I had been told, this noise is normal for the new belt as it "wears in".

Mine (VG33E) has the same square tooth count IIRC. Someone might chime in and correct the numbers for me. Yeah, I can't believe my valves survived. From what I understand, the VG33 is an interference motor. I checked my compression ranging from 130-148 psi. There may have been some minor collision on the 1-3-6 bank. She purrs like a kitten these days.

Did you get a tooth count from the right bank cam to the crank shaft? I figured out my jumped timing dilemma by the tooth count between the right cam and crank. In my case, the soupy mud (from my sig pic) entered the timing belt chamber and hardened causing the belt to jump teeth from the crank shaft. What a headache that was to diagnose.

Uhmm, welcome to the forum? Do you know if the fuel filter has been changed? You could check compression to see if the timing belt has jumped/slipped. I assume that you have an aftermarket alarm system to protect your high end audio gear. Maybe the alarm brain is going out?

Holy crap! How can an engine still be good after that? I mean, melting external wiring and all?

Sounds like you have your timing marks all correct. It must be the wrong belt. You might want to check the compression after the belt change for a "peace of mind" to make sure none of the valves kissed the pistons.

Actual lift is measured from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom of the fender.

I'd like to see some pics of your R50.

The cap comes off pretty easy, actually. However, I have not tried to put them back on as I had replaced my drive flanges with the Warn manual hubs.

Sounds like the starter is going limp.

Mine is 13 years old and I've had her for the past 10 of them.

Man, I had to put mine back on as I felt Vaja's butt rocking to much going down the highway. Then again, I only have the 2" spring lift so it might be different than the SFD.

I've got some buddies that live in Norfolk that wheel with us at Uwharrie National Forest in NC. I think it's a three hour drive (give or take). We have a blast camping and night wheeling.

My LE has the LSD rear end as well.

thanks for sharing. That was funny!

Nice project. I'll follow this one as you make progress. Hate to hear about the kitty (I'm a cat lover).

Such a clean ride. I'd bet you could hook some one for $4k easy. Advertise it in the right places ...

Make sure the nuts on the bottom of your sway bar end links are tight. You just described the same problem I ha on my pass side. The nut was not fully tightened.