devonianwalk

I can't wait to see the before/after EMU/AC pics.

Sounds about right. After looking at the shoddy packaging, I was happy they showed up at the same time.

Odd, you have extra holes in your bumper? Thanks for the pics. *edit to save myself from embarrassment.

** forgot to mention, I've since removed my plastic fender flares so, I have no idea how much my suspension has settled in two plus years.

That is a fantastic deal. I'll bet that the "three inches" of lift you are experiencing has to be based on you measuring your worn stock suspension before the AC lift. I gained five inches (31" stock to 36") measuring from the ground to the bottom of my fender flare just after installing my AC springs. However, I had installed my 31" A/T's at the same time of my lift. Before lift measurement (rear fender flare)... Post lift measurement (rear fender flare) ...

Case in point (I learned my lesson) ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=0hU2Oug4bSQ#t=43s

Defiantly re-wax the entire car. It will end up clean and even "all over" with the UV and water resistant protection. As for which wax I'd recommend? Check out Griot's Garage. Fantastic polishes and waxes.

I'm sure you checked to see if the MAF wiring harness is completely plugged in?

Can you provide a pic? If it's not soft and just on a seam it can be welded and painted.

22 yr old (pin stripe-less) paint job sucka!

Nu-finish is just a clear coat filler really. It does work pretty well. I've used it on my "on road" cars (the cars in my drive way that I don't want the Carolina pin stripes on) with nice results.

Wouldn't surprise me. Have you seen the side-by-side pics? I know we had a difficult time compressing the AC's while assembling the struts. Think about it, how much "push" would you need to "lift" the heavy R50 2"?

This should be your sig quote!!!

Yeah, I'm convinced of his input as well.

It looks like you need an extra U-joint in there. I just replaced my P/S rack last month. IIRC .. you should be able to loosen the four bolts that secure the rack to the sub frame and rotate the whole assembly to reduce that angle. Take my advice with a grain of salt as I have not attempted this feat.

looking like a botched breast implant. I kid! I'm digging the cut out fender wells. I'm looking forward to your build mang.

Jeezzzzzus. This reminds me of the story when back in the early 60's NASA spent millions of dollars to develop a pressurized ink pen that would work in space. The Russians simply used a pencil.

And there's your answer! Over here we call them "Carolina pin stripes"

Yo' Ex, do you have any close up photos of your panel clip plugged holes? I might have to go that route as I too prefer the look with out the flares.

Yes! This! It makes mounting them much easier if you can tack weld them first to keep the studs from falling out.

You more than likely will need to replace the plastic tabs that hold the flares to the fender. I broke all but two removing mine. Other than that, just use a Phillips head screw driver (short handled would be best) and start unscrewing.

Your R50 is very capable if you have good tires. I would not recommend rock crawling with out the extra lift but, you will be just fine hitting the trails. I thought that the newer Pathy's had limited slip rear diff's? Look to see if you have the little orange "Use LSD oil only" sticker on the back of the housing like Andy mentioned.

Heavens .. don't do the AC lift. YOU WILL GET STRUT TOP OUT!! [/sarcasm]

Dang Ice .. I'm going to have to revisit this thread a couple more times to wrap my head around your findings. Nice work bro.

Sweet! I'm hoping that a slow drip coming from the back of my 3.3 and the tranny is just the driver side valve cover gasket (dangum plenum .. right?) and not the RMS.