devonianwalk

I have some el'cheapo Moogs on mine. I figure that there is not really that much movement for the links to worry about premature wear. Even if they "fail" they are cheap replacements. Come to think of it, the only problems I have had with them is the nut that attaches to the bottom of the strut assembly due to the nut that installed it.

I'm still placing my wager on the illumination wire as the culprit.

I don't see why your proposed set up wouldn't work? You had me up to this point! Mine looks like @!*%. I used to wax and buff it once or twice a year. Now I don't even try any more.

dunno? If not, I'll stare at the holes until I can fill them and paint the whole caR.

Aesthetically, removing the flares will "raise" the wheel arches a good inch to an inch and a half. I removed mine because my rear tires were "chomping off" the paint due to the excessive rear flex. The problem with removing the flares is that you will expose the holes in the body panels that the flares snap on to. I have chosen to deal with the holes rather than put the flaked paint plastics back on it. My next option is to go with the pre-facelift factory '96-'99 flares. I'm going to keep my eye open for some at our local scrapper.

Sounds to me that the "illumination" wire is grounding somewhere. Did you happen to recognize this wire? I don't know what the factory wire color is but, it's universally designated by the after market as being orange.

Changed La Blanca Vajayjay's power steering pump for the third time this year. While I'm pissed I had to change it out AGAIN, I'm stoked I did the job in just an hour. *had to change it this time because of a bum reman pump.

Sounds like the timing might be off. You can check this by doing a compression test on any of the cylinders. Should be around (or above) 150 psi. I'm basing my opinion on your "smells rich" comment.

Awe yeah. Lift it, knobby tires, and some New England pin stripes are in order. Actually, that is way too nice to mod. Nice purchase!

Yeah, mine has the same hex bolt in place.

Nice. Now you will be allowed to stay with us.

"QX2"

Holy Schnikes!

I'm not aware of heated cloth seats in any make or model from any manufacturer. However, I use my heated seats to keep the frigid leather from sucking all of the heat from my body through my ass.

I just used a swivel socket and an eight inch extension. After you change it the first time you will realize how easy it really is to do. The trick was just figuring out how to get to it.

A loose rubber bump stop? I'd call that good news as it will not be expensive to replace.

If your truck has an automatic transmission you should have an existing hole (where the clutch mechanism would go) that should suffice, especially for 8 gauge.

Really? I know mine hasn't been changed in, you know, maybe ever? I'll consult Towncivillian (spl?) before doing mine. What rear diff oil did you use? I know my climate down here is closer to Florida than Canada but ...

Okay, this might be pointless to post but, my wife's Prelude would pulse like you mentioned and it had me going crazy trying to find what was causing it. After quite a while (more time than I'd like to admit here) it turned out that it was a collapsed upper radiator hose. When the engine was warm the heat would have enough pressure to keep the hose "open". When the engine would cool down, the hose would partially collapse and cause the pulsing when it was cool. In fact, I think it also had caused, or coincided with, an air bubble in the coolant system. I guess I would just recommend taking a look at your hoses and maybe check for trapped air in the coolant system?

Yep. My mechanic buddy re-adjusted mine while we had it on the lift at his shop (welding new/used muffler). I could feel the difference in the pedal travel before I backed it off the lift.

I'm guessing the SES light is not on? Have you or your mechanic checked for underlying codes?