Nefarious

If it were me I wouldn't reuse the stock upper brackets as they are barely strong enough for the factory sheet metal bumper let alone a heavy aftermarket bumper but I'm sure they will hold it on in a pinch. Just wouldn't want to see what would happen if u hit a deer or something with those stock ones there. Might have a wrecked front end!

1/8 in steel is easy peazy to drill through just get some titanium or cobalt drill bits and some lube and you will be fine. What is that bumper from? Is it meant for a w/d21 chassis? I dunno about you but I wouldn't trust the stock stamped steel bumper brackets to hold all that weight... you will want much beefier brackets to mount that beast on or it will bend down or fall off just by breathing on it.

We have those territory on my gf rig too and they are freaking sweet. Canadian tire gave her 100 000 km warranty as well. They were on sale and ended uo being 700ish$ for all four tires after taxes and install. We blew one up the mountain one time and no questions asked they fixed it for free. Great tires

You are right i like that one better

lmao. .. no spiny. ..rad goes boom... love it!! To the o.p.; replace the belt, top up/bleed the coolant system and start it up. Check for overheating and further leaks. No leaky and no overheaty. .. truck is fine.

Replace the TC rod, bend the flaps of the mount back straight and weld on a bearing race just as adamzan said. It's definitely not the end of the world. Good thing our trucks frames and suspension parts are so damn strong, eh?

Another reason you need a vg33e swap! The front mounted oil filter bracket has an extra set screw in the housing you can remove for an extra oil feed watch out with those sandwich adapters. Most give you unfiltered oil. Not the biggest deal for a gauge but I wouldn't supply something like a turbo with it.

This guy is exactly correct ^. you need to swap the distributor block from your old head over.

Yeah i don't know how I feel about the grass roots link just by design it seems like it would bind the steering that's why I went with 2wd swap instead. You could grease the grade 8 bolts where they pass through the idler and pitman and make sure you torque to the spec that was given by the company that made it . That's about all u can do. If it already went through alignment then they would have checked (or at least they should have) your front end to make sure it's all good before aligning. There isn't really much to mess up there. You may need to dial in more positive caster in your front end to fight the stiffer steering joints if you want your wheel return to be as normal

It's fine to keep front shocks stock if u want but u are going to want to use longer rear shocks or you will have the problems adamzan pointed out. I suggest 1995 f 250 single shock model rear shocks if u are on a budget or get some lift pathy rear lift shocks but I wouldn't leave the stock ones in there for very long

You will be fine. I run more aggressive offset rims on my lowered 240sx :q Seriousy though you wont have any issues with that offset, its pretty conservative

My wd21 vg30 1993 model had bronze valve covers. All vg33e I've seen had black.

Yeah i actually just figured that out a few weekends ago when I was bored. Machined the tb to fit the older tps and swapped throttle shafts. Also had to add a sleeve to the end linkage area so the throttle actuation was nice and smooth. I studied both manifolds pretty extensively and decided the vg33 was better lol. I don't like to how the plenum ends on cylinder 6 on the vg30 manifold. The vg33e has much smoother transition from the body of the plenum to the end cylinders and also has larger flow paths through the throttle body area. Only time will tell which one is better for making power once I finish acquiring parts for the tuning and wideband setup

By the way how old is the fuel filter?

Oh no of course always test for easiest issues first. I always check wiring first (I'm an automation tech and electrician so it's my nature I suppose) as those are the cheapest and easiest (usually) to fix. Meter out the wiring to confirm if there are any opens anywhere. Then test the relay for operation (continuity test with test probes can check all of these). I was just letting you know that if it is the pump, there are options that won't break the bank.

You can order them from nissan. Can't remember the size but there is a plug in the manual transmissions that fits perfectly. I had a scrap 240sx transmission that i stole the plug from and it worked fine when i had my egr blocked. You could use a caliper and a thread reference gauge to figure out the size pretty easily..

Yeah i would never go 90 mm q45 throttle body. That's way too large for an NA VG33. I plan to boost my vg33e further down the road with a remote mount turbo and will also be upgrading to n60 maf and the vg33e intake manifold and tb. The stock is 56 or 58 mm and the vg33e is about 62 mm so it's not a massive jump but it will be enough to make a difference, especially when boosting. Plus... the vg33e intake mani and tb are free mods since I already had them so might as well take advantage!

It's ridiculous. Far too broad of a set of rules. I live in canada and I drive a slammed 240sx as my daily driver although I don't have stretched tires or excessive camber I have built my car to have more grip and performance than stock, not less. I know my car is safe and controllable but if the rules make their way here then I would still be screwed since my offset is far wider than stock and my car is lowered about 3.5 inches on coil overs with fully adjustable suspension arms to correct geometry and suspension angles. Luckily I live in the west coast and on an island at that. We don't even have emissions testing here so hopefully the rules stay over the eastern side of Canada! I agree that overly stretched tires and excessive camber should not be allowed since that's a safety hazard, but rules like the tire cannot contact any part inside the fender including the fender liner is absurd. Even running slightly larger sized tires on a stock height car can cause rubbing.. there no danger from that. There's also no danger from running larger offset rims. Ah what can I say though, those eastern frenchies are weirdos that want to seperate from Canada anyways. Lol

Actually fuel pumps are cheap if you go aftermarket. Any time a fuel pump goes in my vehicles i replace it with a walbro 255 litre per hour high volume pump. They are about 80-90$ on ebay all the time

Hmm that's interesting. I run the cheap Monroe economy shocks for a 95 f 250 and I have no bounce at all with the jgc springs. A press down on the rear and it returns in one motion. Maybe you have higher spring rates on your rear springs?

I believe I used 1995 ford f 250 (single rear shock model) and to make them a bolt on fit you press or cut out the lower f 250 bushing and put in a pathfinder bushing. That's the best way. Otherwise you can press out just the metal sleeve of the f 250 bushing and the rubber will wrap tightly around the shock post. You can buy shock bushings in polyurethane for the pathfinder that will drop right in quite easily after the original rubber bushing is removed. They end up being 3" longer extension and match a 2-3" lift perfectly

I was just going to say simple green or methyl hydrate depending what you are cleaning. I use simple green for grease and oil in engine bays and for cleaning carpetd in the interior and use methyl hydrate for cleaning off things like dried on tree sap and the likes on the exterior paint and plastic. They work fantastic. for car shampoo and polish/wax I use mothers or Meguiars.

The bouncy ride in the rear is due to the shocks not having aggressive enough damping to combat the increased spring rates bounce. Once you get those ford f250 shocks in the back it will smooth right out. I run straightened 5.9l jgc springs in the rear and the Ford shocks compliment them awesome.

How long since the fuel filter has been replaced? Have you checked the ecu for codes?? When you turn the key to on but do not start the vehicle, do you hear the fuel pump turn on and prime the system right away?

Oh really eh, I figured nissan went to a larger throttle body in the vg33e intake manifold for a reason. That's the manifold and throttle body I'm converting to with my vg33e swap. We shall see about any improvements