Nefarious

U can pry out the front main seal without removing the oil pump. I built a small hook tool out of an old flathead screwdriver for prying seals. Just make sure you are very careful and don't scratch the crank snout! Just noted this was for a repair sleeve, but likewise; once the old seal is out you can just install the sleeve and reinstall the new seal with the oil pump in place

Ka24de trans in my 240sx is 2.4L . I'm assuming its the same trans in the z24 hardbody so that sounds right.

I noticed a nice bump in fuel economy from the intake/headers/exhaust combo. I gotta say that looks like a nice setup. Is that the ebay special?? The only thing I would add is a heat shield around the cone filter to improve performance and help keep the water away from it. I run a cone filter as well and I will be doing just that shortly. Nice!

Man that looks clean! Nice install...this is on my to do list...its just so much better in every way

Yeah I drive my 240sx/300zx in the summer. Pathy is fall/winter/spring vehicle and I never use a/c anyways. West coast of bc never really gets that hot. The ocean regulates the temperature pretty well. Never really used a/c, but I do inflate and deflate my tires a lot when wheeling! Lol

Very cool man. Nice to see the factory pump supports enough flow to make it viable! I'll be following suit once I get an a/c bracket fabbed up. Good job !

Looks good man

i will be following in your route as soon as i get 240v service at my new place so i can run my welder. i need to make a custom bracket to mount my wd21 pump on my r50 engine assembly (vg33e swap with r50 accessories). can you throw up some pics when you get a chance ? i'd like to see how you did it for ideas!

In his post he mentioned an oiler and a seperator, those are the devices used in air compressor supplies to do exactly what you asked. Very common and theres about a million types. Any industrial supply outlet will carry them

In british columbia windshield are cheap, so not all of Canada is bad. Flat rate is 200$ through ICBC (insurance corp of bc). And even private party isnt bad. I had my 1990 300zx windshield replaced in my own driveway (tech came to my house) with new glass for 220$, which for a z32 300zx is a very reasonable price.

Just for clarification you are using the factory r-134a wd21 a/c pump right?

I couldn't say without seeing the belt in person what the problem is but I would definitely replace the belt and then tighten the new one to spec. The way to 'backyard mechanic' style tension a timing belt is to install the belt and tensioner to where you think it should be. Then rotate the section of belt between the two upper cam sprockets by 90 degrees in a twisting motion. If the belt goes past 90 degrees of twist, its too loose. If the belt doesn't make 90 degrees of twist, its too tight. I have used this method and never had any issues on any of my Nissans. Just my 2c.

You will need two wrenches at 24mm for the large style adjuster OR a 24mm and a 22mm for the round small style adjuster. A pipe wrench is alright for the adjuster itself (center section) if you don't mind making it ugly, but for the nut I would at least use a large crescent wrench..if you strip that nut with a pipe wrench then have fun getting it apart..

Yes, you fill joints with grease when joints are together and torqued to spec. Tie rods and ball joints are treated the same. Don't think it matters too much if the vehicle is off the ground or laden with weight since they are not compressable joints but make sure not to over fill them. You don't want the boots to be ballooned out. I fill them until I see the boot walls are fairly flat. If its bulging out too far you will probably just cause it to leak.

What he said^! Good info B

Yes, replace the ground wires. You do not want to develop potential at ground.

The aluminum will NOT melt with a mapp(mps) gas torch. You are fine hitting it with a torch. Concentrate the tip of the flame in the center of the drain plug, just make sure you replace the fluid after and you will be fine. Done it at least 10 times on stubborn drain plugs.

Pump is a pump... just add some kind of oil injection to the system since there will be no refrigerant to lubricate the system, and plumb as usual. A buddy of mine did it with the wd21 compressor and had no issues with it, and soon enough I will be following suit.

It combines heat with a catalyst (platinum) to chemically convert and neutralize various toxic gases, mainly Nox. I use the weld in magnaflow high flow model.2.5". I ran without it and with it on the same exhaust system. I didn't notice any difference in performance with no cat than I did with the high flow. although with it, the truck sounds throatier and the exhaust doesn't stink nearly as bad. No emissions here either but my truck smelled pretty bad without it. Mine was only 80-85$ shipped to Canada from eBay, IIRC

What do you use to mount/dismount tires at home?? Do you have a way of balancing?

If you want to tackle it yourself, you could pick up an inexpensive multimeter and continuity test the wires. If i'm not mistaken, it is fairly common on older trucks for the wiring to break between the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. If you put one end of your test lead to the fuel pump relay terminal and the other test lead to the fuel pump connector terminal (+ positive terminal) then you should either read 0.1-0.5 Ohm (on resistance mode) or you will get a beep sound indicating continuity (depends on your meters functions). Also check the ground of the pump as well, if you put one test lead to the (- negative terminal) and one test lead to a clean exposed piece of metal in the vehicle (the whole vehicle is ground) then you should also have continuity or a low ohm reading. The fuel pump wiring is quite simple and the circuit diagram is listed in the factory service manual on this site in the garage section. You may just have to replace the piece of wire going from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump itself, or the ground wire. If you want to take it in, any auto electric capable place can tackle it. But it would save a lot to do it yourself! Factory service manual is in the garage section.

check the wiring to the fuel pump carefully. it is known to wear and deteriorate over the years. continuity test is your friend.

Got further on the VG33 intake manifold/throttle body swap... Figured out how to adapt everything except the throttle position sensor. Looks like I'm going to have to swap TB shafts from the VG30 to the VG33 TB and then do some light machining on the VG33 TB housing to accept the new offset of the sensor. Once that issue is figured out, it should all work though.

MotoIQ webzine has the project pathfinder build all documented and shows step by step how they built the vg34e. Most of the info u need should be up there, just for reference.