Nefarious

Very cool man, project pathfinder is a sick rig. Very lucky!

Mike Kojima built that! He builds import race cars for a living. He's on my Facebook. Super cool guy. I believe that was his personal vehicle.

yes I do know of Fleurys and we've already spoken. He is in the process (as far as I know) of designing coil spring spacers for the wd21. They are not the same as the R50, so still waiting for news of the WD21 spacers.

In the process of completely dismantling and cleaning/rebuilding/polishing an r50 vg33 intake manifold/throttle body/IACV and getting it all ready to swap into my vg33 1993 pathy.

Took me a bit to find but here are the ones I got. Made by FabTech. http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=390691287519

If you want to build a monster horsepower turbo motor. Talk to Mitch from EP Racing. He builds over 1000 HP turbo Vgs regularly. If you want big n/a power you could talk to Mike Kojima, one of the heads of MotoIQ webzine. He builds race cars for a living and he built 'project pathfinder' as is personal vehicle. I believe he had that engine with over 250whp by the time it was done. Not sure on torque numbers but they were high and flat. You could bore the vg33 to a vg37 and use over sized forged piston and go even more extreme. Mitch can have any size vg piston made to order with all sorts of coating options . Base price is 900$ I believe for the custom vg37 pistons. Vg34 is what mike Kojima built which is a lot cheaper and uses q45 pistons. In short you can build a vg33 for about as much power as you want, in 3.3-3.7L variants with custom pistons. Power limits are around 500hp on a stock vg33 with a strong tune, Over 1000 HP with built internals. (With forced induction)

Well I stand corrected, thanks for the info B. Wasn't sure if they would fit on r50 or just d21/wd21

Nissan 28 spline oem manual locking hubswere an option on (I believe) 1994+ 4w4 Nissan pickups. Thats probably what they are since I think the r50 is still 28 splined front cvs right? At any rate they are pretty rare and I would suggest grabbing them if you can get em for the right price!

I got them from a lift company on eBay. They make mostly long travel Ifs parts and lifts for big trucks but they make 1" ball joint spacers for 4x4 hardbody (which is the same). Got em for 55$ shipped to Canada. 1/3 the price 4x4 parts wanted. I haven't had any issues with them after 2 years so far. The kit came with all new hardware and class 10.9 metric fasteners so I'm not worried about them breaking. Can't remember the name of the company, when I get back from classes ill see if its saved in the archives on ebay and let you know.

They are always super rusted. Lol. Mps gas at most auto stores is only about 10$ and fits on a standard propane torch head. It's a life saver for parts like that!

Use an MPS gas torch for the egr. Works every time, even for the large 24mm flare nut that holds it to the tubing. So today I think I finally solved a way to run the vg33e upper manifold and throttle body in my wd21 (to complement the vg33 swap). I'll start a build thread with pics once I get a little further with the swap. So far so good, though!

Just blow some compressed air through the tube with it detached on the rear. We just did the same on my girlfriends pathy, works great now.

Alignment is pretty good man. Good job with the setup

I run the obx headers and have the same clearances. I have had zero issues after 4 years of use. You will be fine!

Yeah when I did the vg33 swap , I had to pull the torsion anyways so I reindexed them a few splines when I put them back in. I don't mark them, I just eyeball them and make sure about 2-2.5" worth of torsion mount is sticking out when I line them up. They will be the same on both sides so by the time you get to 3" level worth of torsion crank crank the mounts just start to become flush with the torsion crossmember. I'm just using stock torsion bars, but I don't have much sprung weight up front. Once I build a bumper and mount a winch ill probably get some heavier ones. Stock ones work great for me so far.

I run 1" balljoint spacers, and energy suspension ultra low profile bump stops in the front suspension with stock UCAs. I also have Ford bronco II front shocks with custom 1/2" shock spacers to prevent top out. The CV Joints are Napa lifetime warranty joints. Torsion bars are cranked for 3.5" lift up front and I still have lots of down travel. I run a 2wd hardbody steering swap which has a lot more travel than stock steering without binding and has proven stronger and an oem steering damper. Use the short steering stops for max steering angle. Rides really nice. Rear is 5.9L JGC springs with straightened pig tails instead of cut and 3" extended e brake cable mounts, and soon to be 1.5" spacers for 4.5" lift. I like a bit of rake with the nose pointing down just a bit. Nicer to drive and better view angle for wheeling. Nothing crazy but pathys have a slight front rake from the factory anyways. Right now my rear is lower than the front and I don't like that. Will definitely have to buy a panhard drop bracket as well to re center the rear axle. This setup has held up strong for 2 years of DD and wheeling so far. Cvs are 6 years old and still strong. Running 33x12.5x15 duratracs for rubber. Works for me so far!

Yeah the r32-r34 skylines used the rb2xdet(t) inline 6 (2.0-2.6L). The new r35 gtr uses a 3.8L v6 named the VR38DETT. Supposedly it is quite similar to a dual overhead cam VG but with a bunch of refinements. And its all aluminum.

If you are looking for incredibly cheap auto parts online, I think i only paid 10$ per tie rod and 15$ per balljoint from WWW.autopartsway.ca It's a canadian online discount parts website based in surrey, bc. I've had good luck with them in the past but not sure if the parts would arrive in time for the inspectiin, just thought i would throw that one out there for future reference. I also got my wheel bearings there and they ended up being 4-6$ per bearing. lol.

Best block to bore for a large displacement motor is the vg33e block. Ep racing (best vg builder i know of) is in the process of a vg37e -t build. Around the 1000 HP mark is the goal. Vg33e block has the most casting material of any of them, it can get pretty extreme. You can buy vg37e or vg38e pistons custom made to any compression ratio for 900$. This is all still with stock stroke too. Check out the Ep racing Facebook page if u want to see some insane Nissan engine builds. He mostly does vg30dett but he does anything. He is currently building a 1200+ HP gtr motor. Pretty sick

Agreed. Wd40 is not a penetrant. It is fish oil, literally. I've had good experience with Pb blaster myself , you need to give it more time to work too, and repeat treatments.

No problem, just spreading valid information on the topic. A voltage stabilizer installed on the cars main electrical system (at the battery) will protect the entire system. It is tied into the alternator of the vehicle and the battery of the vehicle so that all of the spikes are accounted for (turning on large aux. lights, 12v coffee maker, power inverter). When nearly any electronic device is turned on, there is a current spike. When you have more and more appliances adding up, then trust me, the spikes are there. My truck is being setup as a long distance expedition vehicle with on-board air, on-board water system, gps navigation, logging computer, 12v coffee maker, auxiliary interior lights, etc.. It is vital to maintain an even circuit voltage over the entire system as well as eliminate the inherent noise. A large power capacitor will work as well, as you mentioned, but having a 0.5 or 1 Farad capacitor in your vehicle is pretty extreme, and also dangerous. It also has very selective frequency filtration for cleaning up the DC line. You do NOT want to short out a 1 Farad cap as it would likely kill you. An added benefit is the fact that the bank of capacitors will be made up of multiple farad rated caps in parallel which act as a very effective filter to eliminate a wide spectrum of the frequency range of AC electrical noise on the DC line. The more pure the DC voltage in the vehicle, the better the electronics will function. Don't get me wrong, they aren't a vital part of the system, I didn't even install it (it came with the truck). I am however happy it is there for the application that I am using it for and you plan to run your electrical system to the max, it IS a worthwhile investment. Vortex fuel savers... I cannot comment on this. haha

I have no idea what a vortex fuel saver is, but yes it's a voltage stabilizer. I have gathered from previous posts that you are electrically illiterate so I can spell it out for you if needed. A voltage stabilizer is essentially a capacitor bank with some filters in it. In electronics a capacitors job is to be able to charge to full (99%) within 5 time constants each time constant accounts for 63.2% of the total charge, and then 63.2% of the remaining difference. It can then discharge itself (near) instantly to maintain a voltage level in a circuit. A capacitor by nature will resist a change in voltage, and whatever the normal running voltage of the vehicle under charge (14.4V) will likewise be the charge placed on the capacitor. When the voltage level drops from 14.4V to a lower state due to overloading the electrical circuit, the capacitor will then discharge itself to maintain that voltage level. This means that when you flick on your large rooftop lights, or auxiliary reverse lamps, and your stereo (with amplifier and woofer) is playing, the voltage level will drop with a factory alternator because adequate current cannot be supplied. The vehicles electrical system will then draw from the battery under the hood to make up the difference and this is exactly what we DON'T want. This is exactly why the headlights will dim with each positive current spike. The total effective voltage of the circuit will drop below 14.4V and this is where the capacitor bank (voltage stabilizer) comes in. It will discharge itself to maintain the over-all circuit voltage at exactly 14.4V without drawing from the vehicle battery or lowering the effective voltage. This means that even when the woofer bass note hits, and your running lights are on, and your rooftop lights are on, etc., the current spike will be accounted for by the discharging capacitor bank. It does work, obviously, as it is used in nearly every electronic and electrical circuit that I can think of. It bypasses (to a certain extent) needing to upgrade your alternator while still adding more electrical devices to your vehicle. Voltage drop spikes are not good for your vehicles electrical system and especially the ECU. If the ecu does not have full voltage, then the internal electronics will not function as well and your vehicle will suffer in performance due to the added current draw and negative voltage spikes. Also, when the input voltage to the ecu drops below its recommended voltage, that means more current has to be drawn to make up the same amount of total power (watts) [volts x amps = watts], which means it could be drawing more current than it is rated for, at any rate, it is something to avoid.

If they are failing you with a visual oil leak (which is weird for an out of province) I would just clean it really well and add some oil stop leak right before u take it in. It's a big job to pull the trans and replace the rear main seal. If u are up for it go for it , but if its just to pass inspection then a clean/stop leak will be enough to pass u until u can get more time to pull the trans as long as its not a heavy leak. My girlfriend works at great Canadian oil change and their lube techs use Rislon rear main seal treatment. They monitor oil leaks between changes and they all say its the best treatment. It should be enough to get you a pass and then u can worry about it later when u don't have such a deadline. It's not a cure obviously but if its just to pass a stupid inspection then I would just do that. Then u can fix the other problems in the mean time!

Fixed some shady wiring on my truck. Had some hesitation and died on me when I was stopped with my foot on the brake in drive. Managed to get it home driving carefully and using gas/brake at same time to keep it running (so hard to do with an auto! Can't wait to go manual). Noticed the wiring to my voltage stabilizer was all chewed and gross. Previous owner installed it and did a really lazy job. Replaced all the wiring and fixed some missing grounds and boom! Truck runs better now than it has for the past couple months.

Replace the factory 170 degree (way too cold) thermostat with a 180 degree. I had the same problem, gunked up 170 was staying open just a crack with grit. Flushed the system and put in a 180 and haven't had a problem since and now my gauge reads 1/3 or just a little over. Much better heat and the truck idles nice and low. I think I got a slight mpg increase as well.