Nefarious

96-99 pathfinder, 2000-2004 xterra/frontier, also later model Nissan quest I believe

I did it the right way. What would you change to make it easier? Not doing any of those steps is the lazy way. You obviously will want to tear the donor down for new timing components, all new seals and gaskets all around. Paint the covers and block, etc,

If you do the work yourself and be resourceful, do a vg33 swap. Will be cheaper than new gears, have the same effect on power, but gain in mpg.. really makes these trucks come alive...

Yeah u can just splice in a blade connector female end and heat shrink/tape, if its broken. Works fine for me...

Depends on your climate and driving needs, whether it will benefit mpg/power or not. In my case, living in southwestern Canada, on Vancouver island, the average temperature is not very high so when I'm cruising, my fan is not on very often. It only has to turn on after idling for a bit, hard acceleration, or going up steep hills. In this case, much of the parasitic drag is reduced and power/mileage are improved. I am only assuming that the weather between miami and Florida is quite hot. If you have an over sized radiator, then it will definitely be worth while but if you need constant cooling on a stock radiator in high temperatures then I doubt the electric fan would save much mpg. It does still have the advantage that you can turn the fans on high speed while you are crawling slowly up steep hills and can get better cooling than stock there. Although pathys have pretty damn adequate cooling systems.

Get a new grommet from Nissan if its a bad seal there. If the seal inside the pump went then u can try and re-seal it inside the pump or buy a new pump. Pretty common from my experience. New grommet from Nissan shouldn't be too much.<10$ I would think.

Make sure to tape off the waterpump bearing seals too. U dont want little bits of aluminum shavings working their way in there. Also pay close attention to the timing cover plates. You have to mix and match here and there to make it all work and fit together. Double check if im right as this is from memory but I think its vg33 rear plate, vg33 front bottom plate, vg30 front top plate and you will want to cut the crank timing stub on the lower cover. It sticks out too far on the vg33e front lower timing cover plate and needs to be shortened to match the vg30 crank pulley offset. Otherwise you will have a hard time setting your ignition timing properly. If anything else comes to memory, ill post it up! Also you will have to grind off the lower right corner of the upper power steering pump mounting bracket (at the upper bolt hole end). This is so you can relocate it to its new home about 2" over.(gotta see in pictures, I don't know how else to describe it) You will also want to use a valve cover from each engine to make the vacuum line situation easy. Use the valve cover from the 3.3 on the passenger side to get the extended filler hole and use the 3.0 valve cover on the drivers side, so your vacuum lines will fit properly. I also shaved off the unnecessary tabs from the 3.3 valve cover since they aren't used on the 3.0 engine bay but that was merely cosmetic and not required. I'll take some pictures of my ol lady's truck when she's home from work and show you what I mean, I'm sure its hard to know exactly what I mean from description alone. The vg33 swap I did on my truck is all custom with r50 accessories and relocated everything so taking pictures of that one won't help ya. Oh also, I had to slightly enlarge the factory vg30 exhaust manifold stud holes with a step drill to get the new 10mm studs to fit through. I've heard some people haven't had to do this but on kats truck I did have to (run headers on my vg33 swap and I also had to enlarge the stud holes, OBX brand. Almost looked like the factory manifold holes weren't drilled properly though (factory defect) so you may not have that issue.

I have read the earlier injectors (wire clip type) are slightly more reliable than the newer ones, so I used them with my swaps. The later injectors (push clip style) are arguably easier to meter-out for diagnosis due to the connector type. It's up to you. To use the newer injectors, just splice in the newer injector harness clips from your donor injector harness. Make sure to solder and heatshrink/tape if u go this route! Mr.510s adapter makes it a fair bit easier to do the swap than the alternatives. You need to be really accurate when you cut the factory water pump. Use your old vg33 waterpump as a template to mark length and then use a nice straight edge to mark the adjacent measurement. Also make sure to grind off the tab of aluminum left over that used to make up one of the attachment bolt bosses.(the cut you make will go right through one of the tabs and leave a Sharp section).

I run 33x12.5x15 tires with 3+3.5" lift with auto and factory 4.625 gears. I do have a 3.3litre engine swap, headers and full exhaust but I get better mileage now than stock. Although it depends how I drive. If I'm hammering on it until 6k rpm then it burns a lot more than stock but if i granny it (like i usually do) then its around 19-20 mpg average.

92 and prior trucks have the i-beam rear lower control control arms.

Napa lifetime cvs are the best I've found. Hold up to my 3.5" lift, 1" balljoint spacers and ultra low profile bump stops. Been running them 4 years with no issues.

I believe single cam ka24e throttle body may be an upgrade?

I would just use the Lucas power steering stop leak, Lucas stuff has been good to me in the past. It's just temporary until the sas anyway. And Yeah the 95 steering box will bolt to your frame it just won't bolt to your current center link. Once u go sas u want the large taper steering box anyway to get the biggest solid axle steering joint u can get in there anyways. Looks like you have a plan .

2wd swap is phenomenal for a lifted IFS truck. less bump steer, i dont eat through tie rods and center links anymore, just drives better lifted. on that note, if u are going sas in a few months then don't bother. just do what nismo said and pour some power steering stop leak for now to tie you over until the box comes out, at which point you will want to swap to the 95 steering box which has the largest taper (and largest pitman arm) to ream out for your sas steering.

Pb blaster, wd40, generic Canadian tire penetrating oil, freeze off, kroil. Pb blaster has been the best by far.

PB Blaster is nectar of the mechanical gods. By far the best penetrant that I have ever used.

I have zero vibrations. My truck rides smooth as glass, no joke.

reverse is usually the shortest gear. has the most aggressive ratio to jolt the engine harder with less required speed.

If you have a napa near you, I would suggest the lifetime warranty cvs..... they are phenomenal. I have 3.5" front torsion bar lift, 1" balljoint spacers, ultra low profile upper bump stops, 33x12.5x15 tires on 15x10 steel low offset rims. No front locker but I daily my truck through winters and wheel it regularly. They have now lasted 4 years with all the front lift and travel I run. Still tight as day one and boots are intact. They run quite the angle sometimes but are still holding up great. I know the question is for extended cvs but these have got to be the next best thing.

I had seized bolts in mine as well. My technique is to soak the bolts in PB blaster for a few hours (PB Blaster>WD40). just repeat the spray every 20-30 mins a few times, and then let it sit for a while. once they have been generously saturated, hit the bolts with an MPS gas torch. You can pick up an MPS (MAPP) gas torch at any hardware store for very little money. They burn a hell of a lot hotter than propane and cost the same. I think I got my canister + nozzle for about 20 bucks and I still have yet to burn through one bottle of gas. I have used it quite a lot in the last year and im just getting to the end of the bottle now. Great investment! Once it's nice and hot, hit it with the 1/2" breaker bar and you should be alright. When you throw it all back together, put a little bit of anti-seize on the threads and your life will be a lot easier next time you have to take it apart (if ever).

inside the door jam there is a sticker that lists the gear ratio. best way to tell

Stick with the same gear ratio....u don't want that much difference between the front and rear...

Oh, my bad! I didn't even notice I lost some zeros up there.10 hours of second year industrial automation technologist program and I'm pretty shot for numbers and math during the evenings of the weekdays. Lol.

.034-.036 is not a large gap. my 240sx requires .040-.042 gap. i run .036 on my vg as I found it runs better there and has slightly better fuel mileage. a z32 fuel filter is the same price as any other one and it has a massively increased flow path and better filtration. I use z32 fuel filters for all of my vehicles. they last a lot longer and will allow for more fuel flow when later power upgrades take place

Ooooo....shiny new T3.... perfect size for a quick response 3.3L setup. I'm currently working on a custom turbo setup on my 91 240SX, but once it is finished, the truck is going under the knife for a remote mount turbo setup. Then I can still use my n/a headers for awesome flow and keep my engine bay space in-tact to run an aux. compressor for on-board air. Big plans, lol...but I will make it happen, I swear! Pick-a-part in chilliwack, B.C. is where I got my last VG33E for my girlfriends truck. When engines go on sale there, they are 139.99 for any gasoline engine in the lot. Picked up a lower KM (around 100k KM or 60K miles) out of a 1999 Pathfinder for 139.99. Such a steal. Their transmissions go for 50$ on sale. Can't beat the prices. It's the only thing I miss about living on the mainland of BC. Now I'm back to vancouver island though.