Nefarious

Yeah mine was locked in place, and wouldn't return to centre properly after hitting a bump. It WAS scary as hell. Lol . But yeah that's the only time I've had a scary time with a shock... usually, like you say..just starts bouncing

I had bad shaking and a very scary and rough ride when my shock bit it. Was so old i went to check it when I pulled it off, I couldn't even budge the shaft it was frozen in place.and any movement I did get....I could feel sandy debris and rocks in the shock lol. Completely trashed and although it didn't cause a 'wobble' it did cause a 'rough shaking scary nightmare ride' lol

Awww Yeah...... it works perfectly again. Haha.

There's a few threads here on how to prepare the coil springs for install, you just cut off the pigtails. If you find a v8 jeep grand Cherokee with the 'upcountry' package the springs will give you even more lift like 3.5" since those jeep had a factory 1" lift

Shocks I bought new,monroe cheap shocks but they have held up great for years and have a really smooth ride. I had to modify the Bushings a bit to get them to fit but it was nothing major...the front just needs a tiny bit ground off the bushing sleeve to fit into the front lower shock mount slot. For the rear f250 shocks I think I just drilled out the bushing a little wider on one end and the other end bolts up perfectly. Really wasn't much work at all and its a nice setup for a decent amount more travel and lift than stock. Years are as follows...(might be a bit off, do some research) *1988 Ford bronco II front shocks *energy suspension ultra low profile bump stops *1993-1999ish jeep grant Cherokee 5.2L or 5.9L FRONT springs are swapped over to the REAR of your pathfinder for 2-3" lift. *1995 Ford f150 or f250 single rear shock model, I used f250 shocks as I think they are a little stiffer and I think they complement the jeep springs perfectly. I got mine from the junkyard I got my whole setup for under 200$ and it works for me.

I run more lift up front due to low profile bump stops and 1" balljoint spacers, but I have lifetime cvs from napa and they have held up fine for 4 years now. I do wheel quite a bit but I am more of a crawler, I don't bash my truck around too much. Installing differential drop Bushings will be good extra insurance if you plan to go higher...I plan to install them after I move and have more time but haven't had any issues yet with 2wd steering , 1" balljoint spacers, ultra low pro bump stops and about 3.5" front torsion bar crank.

I use low profile bump stops and Ford bronco 2 shocks with cranked t-bars up front.5.9l v8 jeep grand Cherokee springs in the rear with f250 shocks in back. Truck rides Freaking awesome... tons of flex.3"+ suspension lift

Reworked the circuit board in the door lock timer. Some cracked and some cold solder joints.. Re-did the whole board and metered out the pins for continuity. Hopefully now it works...

Check the alternator wiring first (power and ground wires), like was said if your alternator isn't charging properly it will cause this. I had bad alternator wiring that caused a similar issue on my pathy. Just replaced the connector and all has been well since. After that check with a voltmeter how much V is read by placing the red lead on the positive cable on the starter, place the black lead to any unpainted metal surface (or the body of the starter, although its pretty tight, one arm down there can be easier) check for >12v. If <12V then check battery and battery cables/grounds. I doubt its the starter relay, I would check all other things first including alternator wiring.

If you use the blue tag upcountry v8 springs you would get 3-3.5" lift. The yellow tag regular v8 springs should grant 2-2.5" lift..

Awesome, just like new again!

5 speed is almost the same, just a sensor is different. Rear end is not nearly as nice in the 96-00 as they didn't come with rear disc brakes and the factory lsd is weak in the r50. Factory lsd in the wd21 is around 280 lb ft breakaway, the r50 is only around 90 lb ft iirc. They both use the h233b rear end. I believe r50 is 33 spline and wd21 is 31 spline. Also, even though the r50 is unibody, its still heavier than the wd21 by about 150 lbs. So don't expect it to be faster 1995 pathfinder - 3930 lbs 1999 pathfinder - 4190 lbs

I'll be swapping cams as well as tuning it on my next round of upgrades. I would guess with my upgrades and pipes I am pushing around 185 horsepower and 215 lb ft. Once I swap over the vg30 cams and finish a solid ecu tune, I should see 210 hp and 225 lb ft at the very least and that's being conservative. And the difference isn't just peak hp and peak torque. It's about the power made under the curve which is significant between the 3.0 and 3.3. That's what i meant by 'useable' power. I am going to take my truck to a dyno after the cams and tune to maximize the output as well and I will post my sheets once im done. I currently run 4.63 stock auto gears, auto trans, 33x12.5 duratracs on 15x10" steel wheels which weigh at least 75 lbs per wheel mounted and balance so I have a huge amount of drive train loss. Even still my truck can tow no problem andeven with the monster wheels its substantially faster than a stock great condition vg30 pathy with a manual trans (have both). I hear you about time. I also raise 2 energetic young girls as well as going to electronics engineering tech school full time, working weekends and have 4 vehicles to work on as well including my ladys 93 that we just vg33 swapped! Always seem to find the time though.. where there's a will there's a way. Lol. Not saying it works for everyone but I really have very little $$ in my truck, thats one thing I love about it so much! And it goes above and beyond what it did stock by a long shot. Vg33 - 200$ Obx headers - 190$ Custom exhaust 2" y pipe to 2.5" pipe after the collector through a magnaflow cat and flowmaster muffler - 200$ Altima electric fans - 20$ High flow filter - 10$ Misc parts to make it all work - 200$ My entire power upgrades so far cost me around 800$ all said and done and that includes everything. To me that is worth making an old good truck even better.

Another good idea is to use a small pick to 'tighten' the pins inside the female end of the connector. Good insurance against it happening again.

Swapped out a bad starter on my ladys path as well as turned a spare rear washer pump into a front washer pump since the front pump was toast. Now her truck starts every time and can keep its windshield clean to boot....lol

I use energy suspension poly....used for years with zero issues. Very cheap to replace and can use your discount at your local parts place. I would also recommend the energy suspension front sway bar kit as well.

To each there own. I prefer my pathy to any of the newer stuff...simplicity > comfort. With my vg33, headers, exhaust, e fans, and suspension work my pathy can tow a lot more than stock comfortably and reliably... I have about 1000$ total in parts in my truck now and I would take it over any newer nissan truck any day. I guess I would rather save the money and do the work required to make it do what I need rather than spending a whole bunch of money for something I don't like anyways. To each their own. Vg33 swaps are so cheap and easy to do now, it just makes sense to me I guess. Hard for me to understand 'not' wanting to do another project as well. I mean, we all need more projects.....always......lol

01silva, I gotta say...I'm not usually the biggest fan of r50s....but that thing is absolutely awesome. Just sayin.

Vg30i is rated 138 HP and 167 lb ft, Vg30e pre-W series is rated 153 HP and 182 ft lbs Vg30e post-W series is rated 158 HP and 182 ft lbs Vg33e up to 2002 is rated 170 HP and 202 ft lbs Vg33e after 2002 is rated 180 HP and 202 ft lbs I swapped out the 3.0 for the 170 HP versions of the 3.3 in both our trucks and noticed a huge increase in 'useable' power. Way more low end torque and sooner in the power band. I believe peak torque is made at 3600 in the vg30e and 2800 in the vg33e. In my opinion, if you tow, vg33e swap is your best friend!

I believe the wd21 is rated for 3500 lbs max towing so 2500 shouldn't hurt anything.. it will just be slow

Yeah I have a thread up here for my truck, did it a couple of years ago. Not sure if the pics are still up but ill check a bit later . I swapped the whole vg33e from the r50 over including accessories. Made custom accessory mounts to the block to gain clearance since the alt and p/s stuck out way too far to clear the frame rails and ended up with a lot shorter than stock belts. Bent the old p/s lines to work on the opposite side of the engine bay, alternator harness just reached over. The vg33 swap we just put in my girls truck, we used Mr 510s adapter and all stock hardware. We stripped the engine down to the block and heads and cleaned and painted every single surface, bracket, pipe, etc... Ill post some pics up today, we are off to wash her truck for the first time since the swap and we will get some pics up after.

Dude that is starting to look really nice. Better than oem! Well it wasn't my pathfinder, but I replaced the power steering pump and belts on a 2002 pathfinder yesterday. The vq35de isn't as crammed in there as I thought! Was pretty easy to work on. Although compared to my 1990 300zx....everything is easy to work on...lol

Nice.

Looks good so far kingman. Are you going to loom the wires later for protection, or leave them exposed for easier tracing and work later??

i use a monster 24 mm and a princess auto 16" crescent wrench. hit the nuts with a mapp gas torch for a bit and crack it with those, works great for me.