Nefarious

The pigtails are a section of coil on the end that curls inward and closes off the end diameter of the spring. In short, without removing it, it don't fit! Lol

That's pretty cool man. I like the whole zombie survival vehicle aspect of it for sure. Looks clean and can't argue if it has the power.

The years are the ZJ chassis which i believe is like 94-99? It's the more modern rounded style grand cherokee that has the v8. I'm pretty sure the older cherokees only had a 4.0 inline 6 engine. If you can find a ZJ with the "upcountry" package , they had a factory 1 inch lift. So you are guaranteed 3+ inches. Regular v8 springs will grant you 2"+ Yes you must cut the pigtails off the one end. Make sure to cut exactly the same amount. Also do it gently with a cut off disc and take breaks. You don't want to get a coil spring too hot or it will lose its heat treatment. Hacksaw is a safe bet but have fun. Lol. I used a cut off disc and took my time and mine are fine.

More work on the 3.3 today. Ran into an issue using Mr 510s crank adapter. The engine I pulled was from a 99 pathfinder and the vg33e on the r50 has the front mount oil filter housing. I knew I would have to weld an offset and extension to the alternator bracket but the r50 filter housing sticks out quite far from the oil pump which doesn't allow the alternator to clear the steering box once the belt is tight. After some research, a solution... I knew the xterra and frontier have a lower profile housing and that's obviously what Mr510 used but around here they are hard to find in the junkyard and they want $$$ for the parts. On the other hand, the vg30/33 in the mercury villagers and Nissan quest also have the front mount oil filter housing and they are even lower profile than the xterra and frontier housing! Score! So we went to Pickapart and picked one up for 10$ from a 98 villager. Spent the rest of the time extending and making the correct offset for the alternator bracket. It is all together now, just the upper plenum to go and this motor is ready to go in!

I would think the maf getting wet over the o2...

You use the front JGC coil springs in the rear of the pathfinder. The coils give lift....all the shocks do is stop the springs from bouncing repeatedly...

I think it looks better with the flares on personally

Right on, I will put something together tomorrow or Monday and post it up in the garage for everyone.

I was going to make a how-to on rekeying pathfinder locks. When I bought mine the key only worked in the ignition and glovebox. I didn't even have a key to unlock the doors! Just keyless entry... so when the keyless entry failed I was forced to teach myself to locksmith! Now I have one key for everything and it only cost me 5$ in junkyard locks for parts... I should have enough pics to make a write up... anyone want one?

Love the mod, I need to do this!

Cheapest and easiest way to a 2" suspension lift. For the front: crank the torsion bars up 2".(free) Buy energy suspension ultra low profile bump stops and install them in the front upper bump stop position (16$) For the rear: Junkyard v8 JGC springs and you have to cut the pigtails off them to fit.(20-30$) Monroe 1995 Ford f250 (non-HD VERSION) rear shocks (70$ for both) This will give you a true 2-2.5" suspension lift for about 120$ and that's front and rear lift included. I started out with exactly that setup so I know it works. Only thing that needs to be modified is the lower rear shock bushing for the pathfinder needs to be swapped into the bottom of the f250 shock or drill out the f250 bushing since the pathfinder uses a thicker lower shock post than the f250.

You DON'T need upper control arms for a 2" lift. The balljoint angles are still fine at that height. Upper control arms should be used for 3-4 inch front crank as the angles do start to get more severe at those heights. I use stock ucas with 4" torsion bar crank and balljoint spaces for my setup. Just letting u know its unnecessary to buy ucas for a 2" front torsion bar lift

The balljoint spacers don't add lift. They increase the gap between the outer balljoints so that it increases your front suspension extension travel. It just keeps the ride smooth after cranking the torsion bars. You can lift the front as high as you want with the stock torsion bars, but there is only so much travel so the higher you crank them the closer they get to their max down travel and your ride gets harsh when there are pits or grooves in the road. You dont need balljoint spaces for a 2" torsion crank, that isn't very much. I'm just letting you know what my setup is. I run 3-4" suspension lift and 3" body lift. For the rear I use JGC springs from the upcountry 5.9L v8 model. They give u 3" rear lift, then I use ford f250 shocks in the rear. Monroe brand.

My s13 240sx hood weighs twice as much as my wd21 pathfinder hood... lol. About the air intake....I think you need to pull off your accordion pipe, and look into your maf. Notice the size it restricts down to. It's freaking tiny. The stock air box is not a real restriction at all in comparison to that stock maf and its pretty good at keeping water out too, for a stock unit. Until you install a larger maf and tune for it, I wouldn't worry about the air box. Like has been said its pretty good considering the huge bottleneck in the maf. The money could be spent on other mods that will give you more performance per dollar.

I use Monroe Ford bronco 2 shocks up front with Ford f250 (non HD) shocks in the rear. In the front it allows me to run 1" balljoint spacers with low pro bump stops and still droop right down. Way nicer ride with a 3.5" torsion crank. In the rear the f250 shocks sacrifice only .5" of compression travel while allowing an additional 3" of extension travel to fit the 5.9L v8 JGC springs with straightened pigtails for 3" rear lift after loaded and 33x12.5 spare on the back. Was under 140 for all 4 at the local Lordco, super smooth ride but they flex well.2 years of trail abuse and DD use...no issues yet. They still ride great.

Just finished lower manifold, fuel rail, timing assembly, and valve covers. One more day and the 3.3 will be ready for the ladys truck. She is getting excited now! Should be finished the swap within a week now

Either use a prybar like the picture, or throw on the rotor and caliper and use the brakes.

Bit of progress on the vg33... intake manifolds are painted.. Most of the day I chopped apart a Suzuki sidekick that a buddy owns...he decided to smack a full size suv and bent the frame in the front and mangled the body mount.... so I chopped out the bad section, got a junkyard cut from a clean one and welded the new piece back in. I'm about 7 hours in and its all tacked in just need to finish the welds and pull the body out a bit so the mount holes line up again. Another couple hours to go but its all straight again...what a job.. lol. Sidekick frame is nothing next to the pathy frame. Nissans quality is just hands down above

Just about finished painting every bracket, pulley, manifold, cover, etc for the swap. Upper intake manifold was a pain to clean and paint! It's all coming together now though. Got the gaskets I need so this weekend the vg33 should be assembled.

Machined down a vg30 waterpump to fit on a vg33 block/oil pump. Cleaned off old gaskets and fit the modified water pump. Fits PERFECTLY. Swap is coming along nicely Tomorrow is assembling all the painted coolant pipes and painting the upper and lower plenum and all associated brackets. Waiting on lower manifold gaskets to throw it all back together.

The tie rod adjuster is reversed... inner and outer tie rods are the same on the ends, just the threads are different taper direction... surprised the mechanic didn't realise this?

Another day working on the ladys 93, Pulled the heads off of the old vg30. Man that thing was abused! So much carbon deposit...its like 1/8th inch thick. Pulled the vg30 cams for use in the 3.3. All parts are removed from the old block now and we are cleaning everything and prepping all the parts for paint. Then the new 3.3 will begin assembly!

Sry just noticed you changed it... good job!

Like Adamzan said. You can change that hose with everything in place. You need some needle nose pliers and a pry bar. I have changed it before. You can slice the old one with a razorblade. Once its sliced you pull it off the lower plenum first, then pull the other chunk straight up and out. If you can get some pliers around the hose sections and rock them back and forth a bit they will come out a lot easier. The new hose will be pliable and much easier to get back into place and u can use a bit of antifreeze on the inside edges of the new hose to act as lubricant to squeeze it back on the pipes easy enough. Don't drive 100 miles with a busted coolant hose... thats just asking to damage your engine. Change the elbow! It's not that bad..

Big day.... started dismantling my ladys 93 path se. We have the motor almost stripped down to the block pulling parts to clean and paint and install on the new vg33e that's going in. Got it down to the cams and one head is almost off... putting the vg30 cams in the vg33 as well... Old vg30 is almost out of the truck as well aside from being ripped apart. Tomorrow is cutting the vg30 waterpump to fit on the vg33 and then install all the timing belt and components etc. Painting the valve covers, timing covers, pulleys, brackets in duplicolor racing green to semi match her green pathy. It's finally happening! Now we will have two 93 pathys with vg33s. Mine is the big beastly one, hers is the clean mild modded one. Lol. Will get pics of the swap before and after up . I should make a members rides page for our trucks I think!