Nefarious

Both my girlfriends and my own 1993 WD21's have vg33e's in them now. Best freaking thing ever to do to a wd21!! Really makes them come alive. Mine's an auto, hers is a manual. Both are fun as hell to drive now. LOL We both saw mileage improvements as well.

wd21 factory lsd is actually really capable. its somewhere around 270ft lbs breakaway torque. factory r50 lsd is pretty weak though at around 90 ft lbs breakaway. i just swapped over the whole rear axle from an SE model so I got the lsd and the rear disc brakes at the same time. easiest way to do it, really. if you can get a good deal on an axle anyways. mine only cost me 40$ for the whole assembly.

I've been running the 1" bj spacers for about a year now and havent had any issues at all thus far. When I installed them I put a bead of "the right stuff" curing rubber on them so they would make a bit of a lock in bushing against the uca. No signs of movement , the beads are still undisturbed so I'm not too worried about them causing any damage. I've taken my truck out 6 or 7 times through the maintains now and everything is still holding up great.

Take the wires back and order a set of ngk wires. Ngk wires are the only thing comparable to oem. Glowing wires are not good. I ordered my ngk wires online for around 65$ if I remember correctly. I would also finish your tune up. Clean the maf, change fuel filter to a 199X 300zx fuel filter(3 years is old for a fuel filter), regap your spark plugs to .34-.36, hold your air filter to the sky, if u can't see a lot of light through it, then replace it. You should also check your grounds. You can physically check them to see if they are broken but best thing to do is use a multimeter and do resistance tests from various metal points on your truck. Missing/weak grounds will cause all sorts of issues and is basically free to fix. If you find more than 1 ohm between any two metal points, you have grounding issues. You want no resistance in the ground circuit of your truck and its surprising how many times this is the problem on older vehicles. Also check your vacuum lines. There are only a few on the drivers side of the engine bay.

As long as the lights are 4300K coloured lamps they should be legal. Bi-xenon means high and low beam.

Do NOT drive the truck with the tension rods snapped...I've never seen them do that. Definitely replace the tension/compression rods and use new bushings. I use energy suspension, some people like moog. Those are not stabilizers though, they are a main component of your lower wishbone!

Nice, great info there. Thanks Mr.Reverse. Perfect reference info as I'm about to do these fixes and some more on my 93 vg33e swapped rig.

Aw man, that's a bummer. Torsions can be a real pain to work with. Tried soaking it in pb blaster for a couple days and then hitting it with the MPS gas torch?? Just a thought. You moving to the west coast or just going for a trip?

I found a guy on ebay that makes 1" balljoint spacers for 4x4 hardbody trucks which as we all know are the same as our trucks. Difference being that he only charged me 50$ including shipping to Canada, where 4x4parts wanted like 180$ after shipping! Absurd.....

I know, right? Getting the front end all setup after over 3" of suspension lift is a bit of an art form lol. No fun doing the job but does it ever pay off. If you weren't 3000+ km away then i would help ya for sure! Lol. Gottahelp support the Canadian pathfinder scene . Lol

Re-set the torsion bar height. Pulled apart the front end , removed all the uca spindle shims except the ones in the front to increase caster angle. Set up the balljoint spacers to set proper camber on each side. Re-centered my steering shaft since my 2wd swap tie rod threads were uneven on each side. Put it all back together. Viola! Pathy rides like a dream again and im sitting at about 3.5" front suspension lift. Still have over an inch of space between the upper bump stops and ucas. The front articulation is bloody amazing now for IFS. Goes over uneven logging roads at much faster speeds now without feeling anything. Just need to make some shock spacers for the bronco II front shocks cause they are topping out at the last 1/8th inch of shock travel. Now I just need to do the diff drop bushings, UCA bushings, and LCA bushings and the front of this truck is 100% complete.

my auto with 33" rubber revs about 2100-2200 rpm at 120 km/h which i think is around 75 mph? i have factory 4.625:1 gear ratio. about to head out and run wiring for my fog lights, found a factory fog light switch in the junkyard to make it look oem inside

ill try and get a sound clip video up for people to hear my setup. its low dollar and its not quiet but it sounds really nice. idle is a low growl, sounds quite v8-esque, and it screams up around 5-6k rpm. screams in a good way but its probably too loud for some people. i had a really noticeable power increase as well as gas mileage with my setup. for under 300$ said and done i can't complain. thats including new magnaflow cat, obx headers, and flowmaster muffler. the 2.5" pipe was only 8 bux at lordco and I already had the 2" pipe and 2" bends so that did impact the price. i also get comments on its sound almost daily, doesnt sound like your average pathfinder that's for sure.

Going to go out and make some front shock spacers and lower my torsion bars about half an inch, then I won't be topping out my shocks when I hit deep ruts. Then cleaning up a set of 15x8 alloys I picked up for 75$ to switch my 33s off of the 15x10 steels and mount em on the 15x8 alloys. Betting it will be a nice performance difference dropping over 30 lbs per wheel in weight, lol.

Ripped it down some logging roads with the music cranked

I haven't had any issues with my balljoints with 3.5" front suspension lift, 1" balljoint spacers, ultra low pro bump stops, 2wd steering swap and steering damper. Been DD and wheeling for 2 years on the same parts and my front end is still tight.

Pathfinders look good with a rake. Try a 1" lift coil for the jgc (upcountry suspension package). Then you will be at 3.5-4" rear lift. Then do a 3" front suspension lift and u will be set. Only time u will want 3" JGC lift springs is if you are solid axle swapped and u need the rear to match the front.

About to buy a bunch of washers and liquid polyurethane to make some front shock spacers. Front shocks keep on topping out on the wd21 after 1" balljoint spacers and low pro bump stops.

That's why I always run fresh wires for car audio installations. First of all the factory wiring gauge is pretty puny. To get the best sound quality, you definitely want to replace the piddly stock wires. It's also a lot cleaner installation when you know exactly what wires are for what (when u go to change something years down the road and don't remember the factory wires again). it is totally stupid how the factory wires are run and even further decreaes the sound quality with how much resistance is built up with all those lengths of thin gauge wire.

Decent price, too bad its only 2". 2.5" seems to be the perfect size for these trucks after headers and high flow filter. Still, would be a nice system if you want oem fitment and more power. Million mile warranty isn't too shabby either!

It controls idle rpm and fuel mixture control at idle. Also triggers high idle when the a/c is turned on.

Ya that guy is against any sort of fun mods. Might as well pullout the walker and start bitching at kids for the fun things they do....wait.....

the brass coloured solenoid is the AAC valve, the whole assembly including aluminum body is the IACV

That is the IACV

I believe the range is somewhere around 94-99 , the v8 model with 'upcountry' package had a factory 1" lift which equates to 3-3.5" lift on our trucks depending on the weight of the rear of your truck