Nefarious

Out of curiosity have you ever serviced the auto locking hubs? They can get pretty nasty over the years. A good clean and lube might just be all it needs, otherwise I would say its the cvs....these diffs are pretty durable. I don't think I've ever seen a problem with a front diff (on a stock truck without front locker)

finally got some real snow! been looking forward to it all year. 8 inches on the ground and its climbing! went bombing around in the snow yesterday. really loving having the LSD and 4 wheel disc setup now! so much more traction and braking for the bad weather. i live in a really mountainous area on the west coast of BC on vancouver island so good tires are a must here and i say, my duratracs did amazing! my truck goes up hills in 2wd that trucks in 4wd have difficulty with. 4wd is just beast mode, its unstoppable! lol

Beautiful headers. I only paid 100$ for my OBX headers, but they are not nearly as pretty!! They are Doug Thorleys I believe?

we used moog parts for the old ladys 2wd steering swap. SUPER beefy parts. best oem replacement parts i have seen for the pathy/hardbody suspension. p.s. i have now been running my truck for 2 years solid with the same crappy aftermarket 2wd center link and tie rods (total cost was under 100$ for all 3 items) and my trucks steering is still as tight as the day i put it in. the 2wd swap is DEFINITELY WITHOUT A DOUBT stronger than factory steering. i am still running the 33x12.5 tires on 15x10 steel rims with a 3 1/2" backspace and i daily drive and wheel my truck regularly. it is totally worth the investment if you plan on lifting your suspension/wheeling. (this is with 3.5" front suspension lift, low pro bump stops AND 1" balljoint spacers)

heres a whole head gasket kit. says compatible with 88 pathfinder. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Fits-87-89-NISSAN-300ZX-3-0L-VG30E-HEAD-GASKET-SET-W-BOLTS-/400658419447?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1988|Model%3APathfinder&hash=item5d491a4ef7&vxp=mtr heres another one and this one specifically lists vg30i http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEAD-GASKET-SET-Nissan-Truck-Pathfinder-3-0L-SOHC-V6-VG30i-VG30E-1986-1995-/271075726916

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ITM-Engine-Components-09-40542-Head-Gasket-/121273878677?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1988|Model%3APathfinder&hash=item1c3c7c8895&vxp=mtr there's a head gasket by itself for an 88 pathfinder. its listed specifically for 88 and that has the tbi motor. there are quite a few listed that say they are compatible on ebay.

you will do fine, just make sure you can rotate the timing belt just 90 degrees at the top-most run of belt between the cam sprockets. this is the proper tension for the belt. if its really hard to get it to twist, its too tight. if it twists more than 90 degrees its too loose.

also, check the battery terminals and the fusible links. if there is not a good connection there then your truck can studder and hesitate under load. you will also want to check for a tight connector at the mass air flow sensor as these can come loose over time (you can bend them back tight again) and also make sure the MAF sensor element is clean (use maf cleaner on the element if it's dirty and DO NOT touch it with anything).

Wd21 have more weight over the rear than they do in the front. This helps greatly with snow traction over the hardbody. They are actually really heavy trucks for their physical size as well. All of these factors really help them to hold their own in the snow. It is the best snow vehicle I have personally ever been in, so I don't doubt it would work well with a plow. I have wanted to put a plow on mine for ages, but haven't found the right deal yet. I wouldn't worry about the torsion bars , they are pretty strong. I would more-so make sure your steering links/balljoints are in good shape. Other than that you should be fine. Front of the frame are identical between the trucks as well, so it should bolt right on to your pathy. Good find for 500$!!

Soldered a new alternator connector to the other halfs pathy. The old one literally snapped off when I went to tug on it to see if it was why her alternator wasn't charging. So few strands were left of wire that the arcing was welding through the connector and turned some wire into a weld bead. Lol. Charging at a perfect 14.41 volts again. Glad it wasn't the alternator!

I use slightly modified Ford broncoII front shocks. Cheapest version of Monroe shocks.25$ a piece and work great at 3.5" front suspension lift. Still ride great 4 years later. Lol

I don't know how you fall asleep and wake up in such a short amount of time! Takes me forever to get to sleep, even when im exhausted. By the time I start to doze off, it would be time to go back to work and I would just be groggy. Lol

My duratracs have taken me through anything. I was towing cars up hills in 6-8" of snow without even so much as tire spin in 4wd. Could even do it in 2wd, but it scared the drivers with all the snow it threw at their wind shield lol.

Ecu only differs between 90-93 models and 94-95 models

Just went and pulled a manual transmission, xfercase, trans crossmember, shifter plate and boots, clutch and brake pedal assemblies, clutch master and slave cylinders. 6 hours of work to get it all out and I now have everything for my manual transmission swap including the trans for 130$ and that included 2 mint glass headlights housings to top it off! So stoked to get rid of my autotragic and start slamming gears!!!

Do you intentionally have some of those diodes reverse biased? I can help u with a wiring diagram, but need to know the conditions for the t/c to lock up. What signal is sent where to actuate the lock up? You have the led reverse biased, but the gear selector switches diodes are forward biased. The cathode of the LED should be to ground or you will fry it. Standard diodes will block DC below breakover voltage, but the LED is not designed to block voltage. It will fry. Post up some specifics on what conditions u need met and what signal needs to go where to actuate lockup and I can probably help you out.

Put together an old computer with Windows xp and a native parallel port so I can now hook up my eeprom programmer. Have acquired some m30 base tune files as well as ripped the factory pathfinder tune so I can start comparing tunes. T-minus 3 months to go (finish university) and the full ecu tuning project will be a go.

Another few hours of grinding aluminum alloy rims. Got the set of 4 with old 31s for 70$. Sold the tires for 30$, so only paid 10$ per wheel, lol. They are really nice 15x7 alloys but catch is they were sitting outside for years and there's no clear coat left. They are completely covered in corrosion but there was pretty much zero pitting, so I'm grinding the rims back to white metal inside and out and sanding/polishing them back to life. One is done inside and out, two are finished the outside but not the insides, and one i havent touched yet. About 12 hours in so far, lol. I'd say another 8 hours to go to finish it all up.*sigh* Cutting 20-25lbs per wheel of rim weight should be a massive improvement on my rig though... the 15x10 steel rims are beast but they are just so damn heavy!

https://fbcdn-photos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1622624_10153747320085504_780860540_n.jpg Final version of the wiring for my auxiliary reverse lamps/auxiliary interior LEDs/12v coffee maker, with master lockout relay for the rear lights for city driving.

You will have positive camber on the bj spacers. They are supposed to do that. When you lift a pathy front suspension, your suspensions gains negative camber, its the opposite of most vehicles. Your front end is too low to use them. I run 1" bj spacers from a company on eBay that makes them and yes you need extended bolts, 30mm is way too short and they should be class 10.9 metric . I run 3.5-4" front suspension lift with the bj spacers and my Alignment is perfect . It let's you retain your down travel while lifted up to maintain ride quality and increase front end articulation. Recommended to use them in conjunction with differential drop Bushings and a 2wd steering swap to make the most out of the extra travel. The stock location of cvs and the limited travel of the factory steering may wear faster. I use napa lifetime cvs, and 2wd steering and I have had absolutely zero issues. My ifs setup is pretty damn capable now and it takes the beating on 33x12.5s wheeling and daily driving for years now.

No problem, check out Mr.510 vg33 swap build thread for all the details. He already put up a guide with pictures on using his adapter for the swap. It's on here somewhere, lots of good info. If u run into any bottle necks then let us know, I've done the swap twice now and many others on here have as well. Make sure when you put the intake and exhaust manifold on to the new motor, use the appropriate gaskets for the intake manifold.(ex; if you use the upper AND lower intake manifold from the 95, then use a new gasket set for the 95 when u put it together, even though its yoing on the 99 motor. The upper manifold gasket is the same, but the lower gasket is thicker on the early intake manifolds so use the appropriate gasket for whichever lower manifold u use. Other than that the rest should all just line up.

Nope. Engine mounts and transmission bolt right up. In short u strip the 99 motor down to the block and heads. Then u use the 95 motor intake and exhaust manifolds, and accessories/pulleys. It will all bolt to the new motor. Use the adapter on eBay if you want it to be the easiest. One bracket will probably have to be welded to change the offset of the tensioner, if u don't have a welder, u could take it in to a shop . It's a very small job, so it wouldn't cost more than 10-20$ cash if u don't have a welder

The engine in your 95 is a vg30e. The engine in your friends pathfinder is a vg33e. Same main engine design with the change of block with bored out cylinders and bigger pistons.3 litre to 3.3 litre. In short, yes it will fit. My 93 and my girlfriends 93 both have that engine now. There are many ways to accomplish it, but the easiest is to use Mr.510 adapter plate. This allows you to bolt all your accessories to the new motor and it will basically just drop in (with a few minor tweaks). Search up 'vg33 swap' and you will get a whole bunch of info on it. basically you gain about 10% power from the conversion. 1995 vg30e = 153 horsepower, 180 lb ft torque 1999 vg33e = 170 horsepower, 202 lb ft torque. As you can see its a nice little upgrade. I suggest it if you have the time and the means! Mr.510 adapter is between 80-110$, I can't remember exactly but they are on ebay if you look up vg33 crank adapter.

Well I came up with the wiring diagram to run my rear and auxiliary lights, I can run all of my other rear lights that I'm adding later to separate switches off the main line as ill be sizing 40 amp relays for the task. With this setup the rear lights will come on when I go into reverse, or when I flip a cabin switch, and there will be a lockout switch to deactivate them in town to keep it legal. These will then act as auxiliary reverse lamps in the bush or work lamps separate from the reverse circuit. https://m.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/photo.php?fbid=10153744180180504&id=764055503&set=a.10151189050015504.795921.764055503&ref=m_notif&notif_t=like&actorid=678080918&__user=764055503

Good job on the radius arm bushings, my frame brackets aren't bored out so much as yours but my bushing cups are equally as mangled. I need to weld some new races in there too... I think I even have some that will work. Ah...project for another day. Today i installed some auxiliary reverse lights on my rear wind deflector. perfect place for them and they look really nice, ill wire it up tomorrow. I also replaced all the vacuum lines in the engine bay with blue silicone lines, tweaked my carbon canister and power steering reservoir locations a bit so its not so stuffy on the one side. (my power steering reservoir is relocated right in front of the carbon canister on the driver side and the cone filter is right in front of that) Also made a bracket for my cone filter. the previous 'setup' was wire strapping to the power steering reservoir, lol. New rad cap (old one was 21 years old), tightened up some loose clamps. only a couple hours of work but I feel like I got a lot done! Now to finish restoring these old alloy rims and shed 20-25lbs per wheel in weight savings...got them cheap but they were sitting outside for who knows how long and were totally corroded. I have been wire wheeling (hours and hours worth of it) them back to health...3 of them are almost done... one more to go...can't wait to feel the difference with 80-100 lbs removed from my wheels in total. haha