Nefarious

Oh yeah its 220k km vg33, seals or timing havent been done in a long time. It's all getting done when it comes out. Got a few other power adder mods lined up as well

yeah the r50 filter mount is straight down just like the villager/quest but it is so much shorter in over all length, it actually stays above the bottom of the oil pan, i think it actually gives the most possible clearance of all the oil filter setups. the X filter mount is definitely longer than the r50 filter mount but it also points forward on an angle so it clears the center link still. the problem with the r50 mount is that it is physically fatter up top where it bolts to the oil pump and if you run your alternator on that side i don't think theres enough room to move the alternators bottom out far enough to clear the filter mount without hitting the steering box. when you run p/s on the drivers side that becomes a non-issue as its so much smaller than the alternator. my p/s pump sits beside the steering box now and my alternator is beside the battery. it's actually a much more space-saving setup as well as keeping the p/s lines VERY short. i also moved my p/s reservoir over to the other side of the engine bay. cleared up an immense amount of room under the hood.

hey sry for the delay. had some issues posting pics with my phone but here they are. you can see my steering damper is unbolted on the frame side cause im in the middle of ripping out all my mods to swap over to my new truck but its only about an inch out of place and you can see there's tons of room above it. zero clearance issues. this last pic shows where the center link is. this is with a 2wd steering setup but i ran 4wd steering before this and i never had any clearance issues. i also run the shortest steering stops for max steering angle and no contact. it keeps the filter up higher than the bottom of the oil pan so its impossible for it to hit anything. as you can see im running the r50 vg33, r50 alternator + power steering pump in the r50 locations. (alt on pass side, p/s on driver side). made custom bracket to mount the power steering low profile as close to the motor as possible and a shorter drive belt.

It's all Sharp gravel out in the back where the truck is. Lawnmower would be a death trap for my legs. driving over a tarp and letting it grow underneath is too...sloppy. I like my yard to be nice to look at lol. Sometimes the best thing to do is just get down and yank out the weeds by their roots, then less come back every time. I used to do landscaping before I went back to school and sometimes the harder way is the best way.

Vg30 makes peak torque by 3800 rpm, that is where you get the best burn, plus the factory ecu is extremely over compensating when it comes to enriching the mixture at low rpm/high load conditions. Shifting higher between 3-3.5k and keeping the load lower is probably your most economical driving style.

Sure ill snap a pic tomorrow in the daylight.

I pulled the front and rear bumpers and body lift bumper brackets, rear wing, auxiliary reverse lamps, and a few other misc parts off of my old pathy to swap to my new one. Also spent some more time grinding away the corrosion on an old set of alloy rims that I'm restoring for the new truck to shave wheel weight. I also pulled all the weeds that were surrounding the pathfinder too so as not to start a vegetation colony inside it. Lol.

Definitely bad voltage regulator, x2 get it tested

yep, if you want to just acquire the rear disc brakes and not the LSD then yes you can swap the axle lines and the disc brake assemblies themselves. the brake lines are identical all the way up to the axle T connection. The actual rear axle mounted lines are different but the rest are the same in the truck all the way up to there.

In my honest and humble opinion, I wouldn't buy anything other than NAPA lifetime warranty joints. I run a pretty aggressive front IFS setup. low profile bump stops, 1" balljoint spacers, and about 3.5" front suspension lift from torsion bar cranking and i have been on the same NAPA lifetime CV joints the entire time ive owned my truck, which if you check the forum archives is a while now. I have never had one break and the boots are still in great shape. They are some of the most expensive, but they are also by far the best and they allow much more suspension travel without binding than any other joint ive seen. It really depends on how much you drive/wheel your rig but if it's an offroad truck I would definitely suggest napa lifetime joint ONLY. You can't argue with 5 years of daily driving/wheeling service running aggressive angles!

if you have a 92 truck then you most likely already have the "small" taper for your TREs and pitman arm connections. In that case, you are already ready to swap in the 2wd setup! 91-92 is the best year to start with because you have the stronger updated steering box and already have the right tapers to fit the 2wd center link and inner tie rods. best of luck. p.s. if you check my thread on the build, it will give exact build dates as to which steering taper you have in case you want to confirm. (every 92 ive ever seen had the small taper but technically it is possible to have a really late built 92 truck with large taper, although it seems to be quite rare).

no i have not unfortunately! my girlfriend bought me a new truck for my graduation present from college so i am now in the process of swapping out all the bits from my old truck to the new one. (old truck had lots of rust holes in the chassis and the frame was starting to need work as well, new truck is immaculate frame and chassis and a perfect rig to build into a permanent member of the family. vg33e swap/intake/exhaust/accessories, etc. plus all the lift bits and stereo/bumpers etc.. once i have everything swapped over, i will start back up on the chassis mods. ill start a new thread for the build of swapping parts over.

1995 Ford f250 shocks are 3" longer than stock and work awesome for cheap. One end fits right on. The other end just needs the pathy lower shock bushing swapped over. Easy cheap swap

Gear ratios will probably be different. Your manual most likely has 4.36 gears and the auto donor most likely has 4.63 gears. Check the door tags. HG43 represents 4.36 gears. HG46 represents 4.63 gears. If the ratios are different you could always have your ring and pinion gear set swapped over into the auto trucks third member and then swap that in, but that is a hell of a lot more money and work when you can just find a manual donor. Your other option is to swap both the front and rear diff from the donor truck into your truck, then you will have the 4.63 gears in your truck. If you ever plan to run 32-33 inch tires then that is probably your best bet since it would return your overall gear ratio closer to factory . Hope that helps

You converted the pathy to run the pigtail ends huh? That's kind of cool, now you have access to a lot more spring options down the road. I would definitely paint all that work you just did, though. Then it wont rust away!

Right on dude. I just got my diploma in industrial automation and instrumentation. You do more hardware or software?

holy **** dude, those are monster springs! you planning to sas the front im guessing?? those should give ya at least 4-5 inches of lift i would think.

p.s. congrats to you too adamzan, you are graduating this year too??? What were you taking?

Thanks a lot everyone ! Yes, they are both keepers for sure! That girl is the love of my life. I'll get some pics up of the truck once I get it home on Tuesday!

Actually the r50 oil filter bracket that is bolted to the r50 oil pump fits completely fine in a wd21. It clears the center link and steering damper with either the stock 4x4 steering OR the 2wd swap steering. I know this becase I am running a r50 vg33 plus r50 accessories in my wd21. I also run the short steering stops for max steering angle and zero contact issues. The problem with the r50 oil filter adapter bracket is that it is physically fatter where it bolts to the oil pump which doesn't allow enough room for the alternator to maintain its position when using factory or (w)d22 accessory layout. If you use the r50 accessories which swap the p/s pump and alternator locations and make a custom low profile bracket for the p/s pump then it all fits perfectly. Just wanted to clear up the fitment issues

ISO is an "image" file. It is a one file representation of a dvd or cd discs contents. It is an exact replica of an original hard copy. To mount an ISO you want to run daemon tools (free software) or equivalent which will generate a false software version of a disc drive that will appear internally in your "Computer" folder in Windows. This allows your computer to think you just put the actual cd/dvd into a physical disc drive without actually having a disc or a drive. It all happens internally inside the computer on a logical level.

Was just surprised by my girlfriend with a new (to me) 1991 pathfinder SE for my college graduation present! So unbelievably appreciative, i am a lucky man. It is a black pathy with grey interior (what ive always wanted), with sunroof, LSD, rear discs, a bunch of poly bushings just done, nice stereo, snorkel, a trailmaster 4" suspension lift with brand new shocks and best of all, the body has VERY little rust and the frame is 100% immaculate. I went over it with a fine-toothed comb and there isnt one rusty or weak spot on it. Pretty rare for a west coast truck. Still immaculate powder coat all the way down. This one is the keeper, im never getting rid of it! Plans now are to swap in the 3" body lift, custom 3" suspension lift and all the other goodies from my old truck over to this one, oh yeah, and the VG33E swap and associated parts from my other truck. I am seriously a happy man today! Good chance that custom rear lower control arms are in the agenda now since the rear will be sitting at about 7" of suspension lift! Pictures will follow suit!

Very nice work my friend. This is a very similar route to what I plan to do with my build after school is finished up in a month. Keep it up man. I remember seeing pics 5 or 6 years ago on Google images of your truck when it was on 44s. Has come a long way since then!

It's easy to pull out, not as easy to put back in. It's actually less work to swap the one from your other truck over...but... why do you say it needs replacing? Does it make any noise or otherwise drive improperly? A tiny bit of rotational play in yhe driveshaft likely wont ruin your day if its that small and you don't have any other issues?