Nefarious

Congrats, took me years of owning Nissan before I figured that one out, lol.

12303-12G03 Found the part number! They are on ebay right now for 129$ Awesome find .....

That is very interesting .. thanks for that info. I'm up in Canada and you just made me very curious. Gunna hit the junk yard soon and see if i can find some late model v6 d21s

Nice, yeah I use these strong plastic interior panel removers. They are basically a construction cats paw made out of plastic. Got a whole kit of them on ebay for like 8 bucks when I purchased all the tools to remove and replace auto glass

Keep in mind the 29" tire models have the shorter steering stops which allow a sharper turning circle and more maximum steering angle. The 31" tire equipped model has longer steering stops which restrict maximum steering angle. If you use short steering stops and 31" tires with factory offset, there is a good chance that you will rub. Running 31" tires on stock chrome rims with short steering stops has an even greater chance of rubbing due to the higher offset versus the alloy Legos. Wheel spacers or slightly lower offset wheels will cure this issue while still allowing maximum steering angle of the short steering stops.

Time to re solder or replace the door lock timer!

Have you contacted him through his company website? I believe its www.vg30.com

Try and avoid sticking anything between the pan and the block, the FSM says to avoid damaging this seal area. Best to use a rubber mallet to slowly work around tapping the pan on curved spots so it doesnt dent or bend anything and once it starts to break free slightly, you will be able to use your hands to pry the pan off. You can use a plastic pry bar between the pan and block but i wouldnt use a screw driver personally. Best to avoid causing further weak points for leaks.

A good set of alloys are actually stronger than steel rims. Depends on the construction style and quality of the alloy. Mine have been through hell and back and before this were on several other bush truck beaters and I have never had a problem with them. Blown up tires, rims are still minty. just my experience, but just stay away from the cheap crappy alloys like Eagles.

Yup, either take out more adjustment shims or crank your front end up higher. Either will make the camber more negative

That's a good compromise actually.32x11.5 or 33x10.5 on alloy rims and u shouldn't notice much if any difference

Or swap in a vg33e and I/h/e it and run the 33s all the time Haha sometimes I think of going to smaller 31s for DDing but 7" lift looks far too silly for 31s lol

Pretty complex question actually, re gearing will make your over all gear ratio the same as factory, so your power will be the same as stock MINUS the increased unsprung rotational weight at the wheels. If your wheels were somehow the same weight between 31-33" and the diff gears were swapped to account for the change in wheel diameter. Technically your power and mileage will be the same minus things like increased wind resistance from added height above and below the vehicle and other factors. This is not realistic, but the closer you can get to that situation the better off you will be. Best approach is to stay with a taller but narrower tire. Some tires are lighter than others as well. I run Goodyear duratracs that are 33x12.5 but they are almost the same weight as many 31x10.5 tires so choosing lighter tires helps as well. Like running a 33x10.5 or something along those lines. Reducing contact patch and friction but mainly tire weight . Also running narrower light alloy rims will help fuel mileage, power and especially handling. Taller over all gear ratio like you get from increasing tire height can even improve mileage on long cruise trips if the engine has enough power to comfortably move the vehicle. I'm not sure what wheels and 33 tires you run but you may want to check their weights anr compare that to stock. The wheel and tire weights also have a massive effect on the handling an how nimble a vehicle is, so that will be the most effective way to maintain the handling characteristics you want while increasing tire height. Basically keep your wheels as light as possible, and if you slightly increase your vehicles power as you increase your tires height you probably won't notice the power difference and you may even find your fuel mileage increases due to the taller over all ratio. That's what happened to me! on highway trips I average about 19-20 mpg with stock 4.63 gears, auto trans, vg33e intake/headers/exhaust, and 33x12.5 duratracs on lightweight 15x7 deep dish alloys. Before the engine swap I had a stock vg30e in good health with 29" street tires , and I only got 17-18 mpg . I run much taller tires and a slightly more powerful motor and my mileage is much better (for a pathy). This is just my experience but it has worked well for me! Going to a 35 or 37" tire I would then look into re gearing as the difference is much more drastic but from 31-33 in my experience can easily be made up for in slight power modifications.

14.2-14.4 v while charging is what I have read with every healthy Nissan charging system I've worked with.

You may just have a corroded or dirty battery terminal, that can give the symptoms you described. Otherwise take a volt meter to your battery. Should read between 12.5-13 volts if its healthy. Check for bulging on the sides and also check the water level if it is a serviceable water cell.

That doesn't sound right, no, check Google or the fsm for injector spec on the tbi model. I know later high impedance injectors are spec at 10-14 ohms, not sure of tbi models though .

You should be able to ohm test your injectors. If their impedance is in spec, there's not much else to go wrong. Its just a solenoid valve (electrical coil and actuator).

My 1993 sentry classic did the exact same. It was tbi injected and had intermittent bounce at 2k-2.5k. All the symptoms you described. If the chts doesn't work out I would look at the maf... a bad maf is one of the few symptoms that will put an ecu into limp mode.

Is there no factory service manual in the garage section posted for tbi models? Should have a test to perform with a multimeter to test the maf.

Mass air flow sensor. Clean and tighten electrical connector first as sometimes its just bad electrical connection and if problem persists run maf diagnosis test VIA factory service manual. You just described text book Nissan maf issues.

Beck arnley is probably the best for control arms.

What is the throttle body size on 2000-2004 vq35 r50s? They could be 70 mm possibly? They are drive by cable if im not mistaken?

I would go with rough country (superlift) ucas if I were to choose any of them. They are the only set that properly addresses balljoint angles. The 4x4 parts ucas actually look shorter than stock although I'm sure thats not the case. You want the longest control arms you can get and you want to correct balljoint angles.4x4 parts arms dont do that. They look almost completely straight ?

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