Nefarious

take some pics, i would be interested to see his setup.

I've never done it myself, but my friend said he has done it before, his truck was a manual trans. It would be super tight though...I don't think it would work with an auto but I could see it fitting with the manual, which is quite a lot smaller in physical size than the auto. Don't quote me on this though! I would probably just do them separately if it were me, but thats just cause i would rather not deal with all that weight together added with the tight fit it would be. Less frustration to do it the right way, You might get lucky though! Eye it up, see what you think.

No problem , I like nice solid shifting vehicles. Shifter play drives me nuts, filling the transmission mount with poly just makes the vehicle feel and shift much better and its the easy one to do. Engine mounts, not so easy....lol

Replacing injector harness wiring is really easy and if you plan to vg33 swap you need to tear the engine down to that point anyways, its really not a lot of work as long as that is the only issue. Just depends if you like a project or want a turn key. But if you buy a turn key then you probably wont get a vg33 pathy! Lol.

I've never dropped the trans to remove the engine on AT or MT pathys. If you are replacing the trans anyway then that makes sense but i always just pull the torsion bars, unbolt the cv joints from the front diff, and drop the front diff. Then u have all the room in the world to pull the engine forward and out. Trans can stay in place.

I use 3M window weld (curable liquid polyurethane) to fill my engine and transmission mounts on all my vehicles. As long as it's not broken and it's just sloppy, then it will rebuild them stiffer than factory. Never had any issues with any of them! Tightens up the response of the vehicle and makes your shifts easier since the transmission doesn't rock around on the body. Just my 2c but it works great for me.

I use a hotter thermostat.170 is pretty low, engines run more efficient at a little higher temperature. I use a 180 degree in mine and that works great. Just over 1/3 on the gauge now and the engine runs smooth as glass. Expect a slight mileage increase if your engine is otherwise healthy. I noticed one.

100$ is way too much for an injector harness. The main harness is massive and they may want 100$ for that but the injector harness is completely separate from the ecu harness for reference. I am positive on that. It's much smaller and shouldn't go for more than 20-40$ depending on the yard. The injector harness is attached to the main harness on your passenger side valve cover. There are 4 plugs there that lead to the harness that goes to the injectors and then lead under and around the intake plenum. If you pull the upper and lower intake plenum, then u can remove it as you go. The reason the lower plenum has to come off is that one part of the injector harness goes to the knock sensor and that's in the valley between the heads on the top of the block about 1/3 of the way from the back. When you do your vg33 swap you have to tear the motor down that far anyway so that would be the best time to do it, but if you just want to get the thing running then that's the method. You can just pull the injector harness out of any 90-95 pathfinder. Auto and manual are the same. If anyone knows a difference let me know but I've never seen any in the 6 or 7 times I've pulled apart pathy engines. Swap that into your truck with a new set of 2x lower intake plenum gaskets and 1x upper gasket and you will be good to go. Pulling the plenum can be a pain but its not that bad once you've done it before. If u want any tips on pulling the plenum then that's another post, Haha

What he said ^, oh and frontiers!

Motor oil sits in the sump of the pan... not in the engine... just pull the plate and CAREFULLY remove and replace the seal in the plate and do NOT scratch any seal surfaces. Clean the plate of any gasket and use a suitable rtv or rubber gasket maker on the plate. Follow the FSM drawing for where to lay your bead of gasket maker, and torque to spec. Place just a tiny bit of fresh motor oil on the seals inside and outside seal surfaces before installation. take your time and you will be good to go!

I don't know about a mechanical diesel cause there is no ignition or ecu. our gassers have a wire to the distributor but that won't help in your case, sorry!

The vg30e came in the first gen Nissan quest and mercury villager. I know the second gen quest had the vg33 but I'm not sure there was a second gen villager... I do live in canada so maybe its just not released here but I've never seen or heard of one... The difference between normal Vg engines and the Ford edition VG engines is just that the Ford uses different pistons to increase valve clearance to make the motor non-interference but it has a slightly less horsepower rating. Down 5-7 HP if I remember correctly. Any vg33 should be fine as I think they are all the same. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, this is what I have found to be true anyways. I am pretty sure as long as its a vg33 it will be the same as any other vg33. It's the vg30 engines that had the differences AFAIK

There will be mixed opinions on this, but in my opinion, as long as its a HUBCENTRIC and BALANCED spacer, then I would feel comfortable using it. I would not use those cheap stackable shim spacers or a generic. It should match your hubs center bore and preferably be the bolt on type with its own relocation studs(to the intermediate positions between the old studs). I would not want 2" LONGER than stock wheel studs as that's asking for trouble, especially with heavy 4x4 wheels. My 2c

I run a vg33 with Obx headers, full 2.5" exhaust (magnaflow cat, flowmaster muffler), electric fans, and a cone intake. So far my butt dyno says about 35-40 horse over stock and even more torque than that. I would say maybe 185 or 190 HP and maybe 210-215 lb ft. I run 33x12.5x15s with 7" lift, auto trans and stock 4.63 gears and it runs like a bat out of hell when I put my foot down into it. It's definitely more powerful than stock, even with the tires and lift. Your manual will have even better response. We just finished my girls vg33 swap in her pathy recently as well. Hers has no power mods at all but its a manual trans and on 31x10.5x15 with 4.36 gears and hers is even faster than mine once we get past 60kmh (yes we race our pathys against each other) lol I would suggest the vg33 route as it really is straight forward and theres a lot of resources for it as well. Really makes these things fun machines! (Not that they arent already). You can also expect your mileage to go up as well. I noticed about 2mpg increase on both our swaps.

I agree, sounds like u got the wrong taper on the part. I would return it and get the proper ones as that's not really that safe to be driving around on. The taper should tighten itself together so the castle nut can spin on.

Use the factory 5 grease that comes with ES Bushings. That stuff is nasty sticky and lasts for years. Never had any squeaking issues with the factory 5. Still quiet years later.

Auto to manual swap, sure. Not too bad of a job. Manual to auto swap? Might as well buy an auto truck....that's going to be a LOT of work.

None of the frame was cut. Some of the trans tunnel and firewall were massaged a bit, but it clears all the major obstacles. Guy still runs it IFS too!

Everyone is at different places in life...to some 500$ is food that month...to some its headlights.. right now fort me, thats food. But in another 5 months once university is done, 500 will be play money. Stay in school kids. Technology pays a lot! Lol

If a vg30dett will fit, then a 370 motor will fit. Just takes a shoehorn and some creativity.

Man those headlights are sick..... seriously nice man. Things like these sometimes make me wish I had a second gen R50. Then I look at my WD21 and change my mind. lol I am super jealous of the lumens you will be emitting there, though! Best I can find for my 93 is some clear housings with reflectors and a bi-xenon HID kit, got the HIDs but dont want to install them until I get the proper housings...

Nissan steering wheels do actually come off quite easily without a puller. Like was mentioned I just thread off the nut until the outside surface of the nut matches the outside surface of the stud and wiggle and pull a bit and it should pop right off. I've never had to exert myself to get them off, it is a valid trick to get em off quick and easy.

U have to bleed the clutch damper after you bleed the slave cylinder. I personally just remove the dampers on all my Nissan as they are a lot easier to bleed and you get better pedal feel.

I run energy suspension extended poly front sway bar kit and energy suspension radius arm Bushings. No issues at all after 4 years. I just received the prothane upper and lower control arm Bushings set and they look to be really nice stuff. Self lubrication teflon impregnated poly. Make sure u buy the black poly whether its from es or prothane. Black has teflon inside, red bushings don't. The teflon increases the wear life of rotating Bushings (ucas and lcas). I also use them on my 240sx and same thing there. They last great for me.7 years strong in the 240. I'm a fan of poly.

I have a 3" body lift and while they do clear fine once they are in, they are a pain to GET in. I believe I had to remove one of the exhaust studs to snake it in place. Pretty sure it was the passenger side I had trouble with. Driver side was fine. I do have a vg33 swapped in though so it has the larger studs...i never fit the headers to my stock vg30 but i imagine it would be the same. It wont take a shop all that long to put the headers in place but it will be a bit for them to build the new y pipe and transition it into your exhaust . I made an entirely custom exhaust system when i put mine in so can't help ya there. Time to put them in should be around 1.5 to 2 hours tops but the y pipe I couldn't tell ya.