Nefarious

Nice gen2 r50

Nice, good man! Job well done.

I would suggest going for the 220 if you want to do any real welding.110 is good for small things but I wouldn't trust the penetration for something like a sas. Depends what you want it for but I have used a bunch of 110 welders and they just don't compare. I absolutely love my Lincoln MIG Pak 180. It has amazing penetration. Rated up to half inch steel plate with flux core. That's thick. It runs flux core or can use MIG gas and all the hardware comes with it. It also has the ability to use spot weld timer, and a spool gun to weld aluminum. Extremely versatile and I got it brand new on sale for 450$. I have seen them on Craigslist for around 375 in good shape. Just my 2c but to me a good welder makes ALL the difference, you can just do so much more with a 220 vs a 110 welder and its something you don't want to buy twice when you want to do a bigger project. Also, as was said before. Lincoln, or miller. Any brand made by them is fine too I guess (century, hobart) but from what I have used; It has to be Lincoln or miller. They are the standards for a reason.

^ Listen to this guy, he knows his stuff! ^

^ good post. This guy knows what he is saying.

Awesome write up!! Very well detailed and great pictures . Mods please make this a sticky!

I also had a similar problem to you when my maf wiring was bad. Loose connectors in the plug. Worth a shot to tighten the pins with a pick. Coolant temp sensor is likely as well.

why not put your good battery and your good maf in and test that? then u dont need jumper cables. i would suspect maf... maybe coolant temperature sensor since it's based on temperature. also go around and check all the electrical connections for corrosion and make sure all necessary ground wires are attached and present. definitely run the ECU trouble code procedure and get back to use once it is all checked out. You can OHM test the injectors (they should test around 12 ohms if you test resistance between the two conductive tabs on the injectors electrical connector) but you can only really test the passenger 3 injectors. If you trace the injector wires back to where they join to the main harness and figure out which wires goes to which injectors, then you can also measure resistance of them like that. just make sure you have the right wires! (and expect for the resistance reading to be slightly higher due to the length of wire attached) positive/negative doesn't matter when testing resistance so it just has to be the 2 wires that go to the injector. also when testing injectors, it's okay if they arent exactly 12. but its not okay if there are different resistances between the injectors. if 1 is 12 ohm, they should all be 12 ohm give or take .5 Ohm

Yeah Cig lighter is no good. You need to multimeter test wires to find one that's 12v when vehicle is running and 0 volts when car is off with ignition set to accessory. Then once you have found it, do what was mentioned by t-ing into it from a relay. If its just for a low current signal wire then a relay shouldn't be necessary. But if its powering a solenoid or something then definitely relay it.

Only way for me to open my rear hatch glass is to turn the hatch key to the left.

Set cylinder #1 to top dead center on the compression stroke.(pull first spark plug and make sure the cylinder is at the top with a wooden dowel and line up the crank pulley mark) Then remove distributor, line up the 2 marks on the side of the dist body (2 little dots) then slide it in completely centered in the adjustment slot window. The rotor should point near the #1 terminal on the dist cap.

Yeah the dist is probably off a tooth., glad u got it up and running. I would still run a relay for your fuel pump though...

I've never even seen the rear glass popper before, so I don't know where I'm getting parts, but i will make it happen!

You definitely want to MIG weld that frame... don't try and braze it with mapp gas please

Pics! Me want window poppa!

Just make sure an ACC triggered wire is okay. Cig lighter is on accessory. Should still work but make sure they aren't asking for a wire that's 12v with vehicle running but 0 volts with accessory on and vehicle off.

Just open the access panel to the bellhousing and use a long extension and I believe a 14mm socket (going by memory, may be 12mm) and use one of the flex plate bolts to lock it in place.

And no I would not hook up the 1.5W source directly to the battery. Leave it in a blazing sun for too long and you will have a definite cooked battery. If you lived in the north where I do, you might get away with it for a while. In the south; the desert... no. Use a trickle charger circuit. It is very simple and inexpensive. It may cost a whopping 7$ if you splurge. Hell, I will put one together myself for a few bucks if you want just make sure to protect your battery. They are a lot more expensive than a simple circuit.... Keep in mind a 1.5W rating on a solar panel is an average. It is based on a normal day. If you are in a brutally (by my standards) hot place in the south you will definitely be generating a lot more than 1.5W. Food for thought.

You need to find a wire that is 0 volts when vehicle is off and 12 volts when vehicle is on. A running condition power source, triggered to the ON condition of the ignition. I haven't torn apart a Pathfinder specifically for this but a multimeter will be your best friend. Are you triggering a relay with the ON condition power source? I'm guessing for some sort of controller for the dual batteries? Are you running cold crank amps for the main and deep cycle for the secondary?

Could be the maf. I wouldn't be a new one just yet tho. Run the maf test in the fsm and see what it specs at first. Check all engine grounds. make sure no electrical plugs have corrosion or loose pins. Then after all that try again. If its still acting up then continue with the diagnosis. My 2 cents.

If not then I hope u are a decent welder.

I think he means to swap the whole 3.3 plus accessories in? If that's the case, then yes it will be fairly straightforward. You still need to swap ecus and will most likely have to swap harnesses too unless u want to repin, rewire and reloom the harness with whatever new wires u have to add for the supercharger setup

Awesome history. Definitely keep er and fix er up right!

Fired it up for the first time in a couple months.... the old girl is coming out of retirement... had to jump it...ran like poop at first. Cleaned off the battery terminals of all the junk and corrosion and ripped it up and down the street a few times. Runs like a champ again. Good old reliable pathy! just got my welding extension cord so I can fix my pathys frame and she is back in action for the summer. I might start doing some mobile mechanic work through the summer until school starts again, so ill need my truck again! Then I spent the rest of the day tearing into a lifted sidekick. Nice little rig. Definitely not as beef as a pathy but it looks capable. New cv axle, seals, brakes, repack bearings. Productive day!