Towncivilian

DOT4 is fine. Did you bleed in the correct order? Bleed your clutch cylinder too, shouldn't take more than five minutes.

You can try to replace the jack oil with some containing stop leak. It may take a while for it to stop leaking after the new fluid, but it's worth a try.

Lucas Oil Stabilizer is SAE90 gear oil with zero additives. All it does is thicken your engine oil and dilute its additive pack. If you feel the need to use a thicker oil, step up a grade instead of dumping in this gorilla snot. If I recall correctly, LOS used in an engine may also cause foaming of the oil, and air is a terrible lubricant.

A flashing POWER/AT light indicates a transmission fault. Check the fluid level and condition when hot and after cycling through the gears.

Yay, a fluid question. Sorry, I don't know the answers to your other two questions. Engine oil: anything will be fine for a 5k mile oil change interval, use whatever is cheapest. There will be no appreciable difference in wear between a conventional and synthetic engine oils unless you extend your oil change interval to around 7.5k miles and beyond. Power steering fluid: synthetic ATF claiming to meet Dexron III specifications; synthetic will provide better cold-weather performance and lower operating temperature of the power steering system somewhat. PSF can get very hot. I change out one reservoir-full of fluid at each oil change, helps keep the fluid fresh. Brakes and clutch: Any DOT3 fluid; doesn't matter much here as long as you flush the systems every two years or so Manual trans and transfer case: GL-4 fluid such as Amsoil MTG, Redline MT-90. Do NOT use a GL-5 or dual-rated GL-4/GL-5 fluid here! Differentials: Any GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-90. Nearly all 75W-90 gear oils are synthetic and may improve MPG slightly due to decreased drag when the fluid is cold. If there's Advance Auto Parts near you, you can purchase Mobil 1 75W-90 inexpensively if you order online and use discount codes then pick up in store. Buy brake fluid from AAP online too, discount codes are applicable for it as well.

Yeah, engine codes would help. Wheel spacers can't possibly be the culprit. Was the SES light blinking? Being an '03, it probably is not ignition coil pack trouble.

Rear disc systems generally have drum-in-hat parking brake systems, so the parking brake shoes could still be shot. There is also an adjustment procedure for the parking brake lever which adjusts the parking brake cable slack, but I would check the parking brake shoes first.

Windshield one is FM, fender is for AM according to the FSM.

If you have a 2WD Pathfinder, you may not have a bulb in the A/T OIL TEMP indicator lamp. I don't think 2WD RE4R01A transmissions have the transmission fluid temperature sensor in the pan, at least I'm almost certain my 2001.5 doesn't. It also didn't have a bulb in the indicator lamp, but I put one in there anyway. It comes on with the ignition set to "ON" and I haven't seen it ever lit otherwise (and hope I never do). It's supposed to come on with the alternator and brake lights when the alternator is failing, so I guess that's when I'll see it on eventually...

I had a rear brake service (clean, lubricate, adjust) done at Nissan for $40. I also had them adjust the brake pedal free play since there was a noticeable amount, and adjust the parking brake. Now the play I noticed is nearly eliminated (invoice says the tech adjusted what little play there was at the MC input shaft) and the parking brake goes up 4 to 5 clicks as it should. Those two adjustments costed me $90 (hour's worth of labor, I guess). The brake pedal has less travel, feels more firm, and braking is more even and powerful. I had a $25 coupon that expired today so I figured I might as well use it. I'll probably get a rear brake service yearly or so, the $40 cost isn't bad and there's been a noticeable improvement the two times I've had the service done. My rear brake components have about 50% life left as said on the invoice, not bad for OEM components with 141.5k miles on them.

Premium gasoline will not achieve much in a VG30/VG33 engine since they are meant to run on 87 octane fuel. Anything higher is a waste because the engine cannot advance timing far enough to gain any benefit from higher octane (resistance to detonation). Seafoam and Lucas are comprised of mostly solvents. While they may clean some things, they will also leave their own deposits behind. Certain fuel system cleaners contain polyether amine, which cleans without leaving behind any deposits and is the most effective fuel system cleaner on the market today. Chevron Techron, Redline SI-1, Gumout Regane, CRC Guaranteed To Pass (this one is overpriced IMO) are all products that contain PEA.

You can upload photos to www.imgur.com. Try this link for the 1994 EL section of the FSM.

Would page EL-57 and onward of the factory service manual be of help?

How is the fluid level and condition?

Check the fluid level and condition. If it's brown or smells burnt, siphon a reservoir full worth of fluid out and refill with any fluid that claims to meet Dexron III or Dexron VI specifications, preferably a synthetic fluid for better cold weather performance and lowered operating temperature.

Yeah, it should be easier to pull the overflow hose and get it lower than the reservoir to drain. Maybe flush some water through it to get rid of any residual sand material - mine had a lot of grit settled in it.

Check the MA section of the FSM, it should show where the engine block drains are located.

Seafoam Transtune is the same as the normal Seafoam. It's mostly solvent. I would NOT put that in my transmission, or my engine for that matter.

Transmission additives other than Lubegard Red are worthless, in my opinion. Lubegard Red is well lauded by many transmission shops and is mentioned in some manufacturers' TSBs. I have about 20oz of LGR in my transmission, with the fluid being Castro Import Multi Vehicle, as well as a B&M 70268 cooler and a Mangnefine in-line filter. The in-pan strainer should not necessarily need changing. It's more of a rock catcher and if it gets clogged, you have bigger problems. I would suggest a drain & fill or complete fluid exchange via the cooler return line using proper fluid. Nissan Matic D, Castro IMV (think it has been renamed to Transmax Import or something) or Valvoline MaxLife are all good options. You can find instructions on performing a cooler line fluid exchange in the linked thread in my signature.

What's the level and condition of the transmission fluid? 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt.

I have a plastic cover on my dead pedal too. I'll take a pic later if anybody desires it. I have a 2001.5 SE cloth.

There is no brake light control module.

PM me.

Very thorough and detailed guide, thanks! A B&M 70268 should fit alright between the grille and A/C condenser and it comes with a mounting kit and some additional hose. It's fairly inexpensive too, I believe you can get it from Advance Auto Parts for very cheap after discount code. 70268 is rated for 19k GVW. I run one on my R50 now, though due to the abundance of room I would like to eventually upgrade to a 70264 which is thicker and rated for 24k GVW.

Yes, RP is fine. A waste compared to any conventional oil unless you run it for 7k miles or so though.