Towncivilian

Check the fluid level and condition. If it's brown or smells burnt, siphon a reservoir full worth of fluid out and refill with any fluid that claims to meet Dexron III or Dexron VI specifications, preferably a synthetic fluid for better cold weather performance and lowered operating temperature.

Yeah, it should be easier to pull the overflow hose and get it lower than the reservoir to drain. Maybe flush some water through it to get rid of any residual sand material - mine had a lot of grit settled in it.

Check the MA section of the FSM, it should show where the engine block drains are located.

Seafoam Transtune is the same as the normal Seafoam. It's mostly solvent. I would NOT put that in my transmission, or my engine for that matter.

Transmission additives other than Lubegard Red are worthless, in my opinion. Lubegard Red is well lauded by many transmission shops and is mentioned in some manufacturers' TSBs. I have about 20oz of LGR in my transmission, with the fluid being Castro Import Multi Vehicle, as well as a B&M 70268 cooler and a Mangnefine in-line filter. The in-pan strainer should not necessarily need changing. It's more of a rock catcher and if it gets clogged, you have bigger problems. I would suggest a drain & fill or complete fluid exchange via the cooler return line using proper fluid. Nissan Matic D, Castro IMV (think it has been renamed to Transmax Import or something) or Valvoline MaxLife are all good options. You can find instructions on performing a cooler line fluid exchange in the linked thread in my signature.

What's the level and condition of the transmission fluid? 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt.

I have a plastic cover on my dead pedal too. I'll take a pic later if anybody desires it. I have a 2001.5 SE cloth.

There is no brake light control module.

PM me.

Very thorough and detailed guide, thanks! A B&M 70268 should fit alright between the grille and A/C condenser and it comes with a mounting kit and some additional hose. It's fairly inexpensive too, I believe you can get it from Advance Auto Parts for very cheap after discount code. 70268 is rated for 19k GVW. I run one on my R50 now, though due to the abundance of room I would like to eventually upgrade to a 70264 which is thicker and rated for 24k GVW.

Yes, RP is fine. A waste compared to any conventional oil unless you run it for 7k miles or so though.

Change your fuel filter if you haven't done so in the past two years.

Yeah I know, I'm just saying that TSB is helpful in determining which cooler line is which if you wish to bypass the stock cooler in the radiator.

I had to replace my battery the other day. Got an Autocraft Gold 810CCA Group 27 for $74 after $40 off $110 discount code and after I got the $15 core charge back. Cranks like lightning now. The original size is Group 24. Group 27 fits okay height wise, but it is longer than the stock battery tray. I just left it there, anyway. The area below my battery tray is getting a little rusty, probably from typical battery corrosion and water collecting and sitting there. I wiped it off with some Simple Green and some more paint flaked off, but it's not too bad. http://i.imgur.com/Vbl3P3c.jpg

How much room is there between the A/C condenser and the bumper cover area? A B&M 70264 is 24k GVW and will fit unless there's just very little room. Maybe a photo would help. A Magnefine in-line filter install will be beneficial too. This TSB will tell you which cooler line is which.

My battery died. Time to get a new one.

Mine doesn't burn a drop in 5k oil changes.

I topped off my battery with distilled water. Two of the cells were lower than the rest, with the others all even just below the bottom of the vent holes. Perhaps the low cells explained my recent difficult cold starts? How full do I fill the cells? I see no max line. Should I fill to the middle of the vent holes? I should inspect the batteries on the rest of the vehicles I maintain. That was the first time I ever topped off a battery.

1->2 is characteristically rough with our RE4R01A transmission. 2->3 can be a little slow. As long as the transmission fluid has been maintained and it looks bright red on the dipstick, it should be in good condition.

Did you bleed in the correct order?

Capitalize the "p" in Pathfinder and the links will work.

Stock NGK plugs specified in the service manual only. Not sure about plug wires, sorry.

Make sure the spark plug is not fouled or excessively oily. Try to ensure the spark plug wire isn't damaged too.

Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone do free code readings.

Flashing SES indicates misfire. Can you post all current engine codes? How many miles on your Pathfinder?