Towncivilian

Change your fuel filter if you haven't done so in the past two years.

Yeah I know, I'm just saying that TSB is helpful in determining which cooler line is which if you wish to bypass the stock cooler in the radiator.

I had to replace my battery the other day. Got an Autocraft Gold 810CCA Group 27 for $74 after $40 off $110 discount code and after I got the $15 core charge back. Cranks like lightning now. The original size is Group 24. Group 27 fits okay height wise, but it is longer than the stock battery tray. I just left it there, anyway. The area below my battery tray is getting a little rusty, probably from typical battery corrosion and water collecting and sitting there. I wiped it off with some Simple Green and some more paint flaked off, but it's not too bad. http://i.imgur.com/Vbl3P3c.jpg

How much room is there between the A/C condenser and the bumper cover area? A B&M 70264 is 24k GVW and will fit unless there's just very little room. Maybe a photo would help. A Magnefine in-line filter install will be beneficial too. This TSB will tell you which cooler line is which.

My battery died. Time to get a new one.

Mine doesn't burn a drop in 5k oil changes.

I topped off my battery with distilled water. Two of the cells were lower than the rest, with the others all even just below the bottom of the vent holes. Perhaps the low cells explained my recent difficult cold starts? How full do I fill the cells? I see no max line. Should I fill to the middle of the vent holes? I should inspect the batteries on the rest of the vehicles I maintain. That was the first time I ever topped off a battery.

1->2 is characteristically rough with our RE4R01A transmission. 2->3 can be a little slow. As long as the transmission fluid has been maintained and it looks bright red on the dipstick, it should be in good condition.

Did you bleed in the correct order?

Capitalize the "p" in Pathfinder and the links will work.

Stock NGK plugs specified in the service manual only. Not sure about plug wires, sorry.

Make sure the spark plug is not fouled or excessively oily. Try to ensure the spark plug wire isn't damaged too.

Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone do free code readings.

Flashing SES indicates misfire. Can you post all current engine codes? How many miles on your Pathfinder?

Could you try to get a picture of the leaking part? It could be the water control valve or its gasket. If it is, it's accessible without pulling the trans, but you will need to pull the intake manifolds and fuel rail if I recall correctly. Has the coolant ever been changed?

I find it impossible to believe that the PCV can be replaced without removal of the upper and lower intake manifolds. Are his hands snakes? I bet they used a Fram PCV or something. How could he have unclipped the PCV hose without any tools? I think you should pull the UIM and LIM, apply red thread locker on the power valve screws, and replace the PCV valve and the gaskets where required. Do you want parts numbers for everything? Provide your VIN if you do.

Who replaced the PCV valve? Was an OEM part used? Were the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets replaced, as well as the throttle body's? Any engine codes present? Ideally, thread locker should have been put on the power valve screws while everything was apart too.

Where did you get the unchipped key made? Lowes refused to make one for me, stating some bull@!*% that a nonchipped key would confuse the ECU. I'm not an idiot, I won't try to start the car with a nonchipped key and even then, the security light would blink and nothing would happen.

Must be, then. The 1999.0 FSM has an NVIS subsection in the EL section, so I just assumed it was on 99.0 too.

Certain 96 - 98 models (with some tow package, maybe?) had the auxiliary dinky transmission cooler. Looks more like a power steering cooler to me, it's tiny.

Your '97 doesn't have a chipped key. NVIS was introduced with '99 model years.

from this thread

You can use either GL-4 gear oil (do not use GL-5 or dual rated GL-4/GL-5 stuff) or Dexron III ATF in the transfer case. Do not mix the two. Synthetic ATF is preferred if you plan to use ATF; I'd suggest Valvoline MaxLife since it is synthetic and has a beefy additive package. Otherwise, Amsoil MTG or Redline MT90 are great GL-4 options.

All keys must be learned by the Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System. Only the dealer is able to program them as far as I know. Perhaps Lowe's is creating a duplicate using the code used in your current key. I don't know if this will have any side effects with NVIS. You can use some zip ties to be able to put the key on a key ring. I'll dig up some example photos later.

The dealer probably doesn't have any info about this yet. Wait a while for some recall TSB to appear, perhaps. Mine is 10/00 so it's pretty far away, I doubt it'll be extended to apply to my Pathfinder.