Towncivilian

Yep, I said that already Rob. Just another case of auto parts employees being clueless. The OP ordered a Bluetooth code reader to pull codes so we can help diagnose the actual issue.

No, you don't need to change the drain plug unless it's leaking. I change the crush washer every time because a 10 pack of crush washers is cheap, and I don't want to deal with the hassle of a drip if a reused crush washer fails. The FSM also says to change it every time. The oil capacity of the VQ35DE is 5.25 quarts for an oil and filter change, my mistake. However, I've always dumped in 5 quarts (plus whatever I prefill the filter with) and it's at the full mark of the dipstick.

The service manual does not say exactly how to adjust rear drum shoes, it just says to "adjust" them. I don't know the adjustment procedure, I've heard different things about it. I think the most accepted procedure is to tighten the shoes, then back them off a bit until there is a very slight drag.

Prefilling the oil filter isn't necessary, but it does seem to lower the time that the oil pressure warning light is on for the first start after an oil change. Think about it, that air in the oil filter has to go somewhere before the filter fills with oil. It's certainly not required, but it doesn't hurt either. On the VQ35DE, the oil filter is at an angle that allows one to fill the filter about halfway full before screwing it on. The filter's quite small, so be careful when filling it to avoid spilling much. I usually pour some in and let it soak into the media, then repeat until it's about half full, then install the filter. VQ35DE engines have a 5 quart oil capacity. Which oil and filter did you use?

He has an LSV. 2001 4WD Pathfinders have LSVs.

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/View.ashx?d=1&z=1&sku=1995-Nissan-Pathfinder_OM

The rear oxygen sensor only determines efficacy of the cat. It has no effect on MPG. A new direct fit Bosch sensor shouldn't be too expensive from AAP, I'll find it a bit later.

OEM struts and shocks are KYB manufactured and may not be cheaper than aftermarket options. KYB Excel-Gs (formerly named GR-2s) struts and Gas-A-Just rear shocks (which are actually an upgrade; there is a cheaper, less stiff "OEM equivalent" KYB shock too), plus new OEM strut mounts and fasteners is a better purchase in my opinion. RockAuto should be the best place to purchase the shocks and struts (be sure to Google for a 5% discount code), then Rob can hook you up with the necessary OEM strut mount parts and fasteners in this thread. For strut replacement, you will need a spring compressor. Other than that, nothing special except a torque wrench and maybe a breaker bar and some penetrating lubricant to loosen any stubborn fasteners. Welcome to NPORA.

I hate the Bose system. You need a line-output converter between your head unit and the vehicle wiring harness to properly retain the stock Bose speaker system. Do you have one?

No it doesn't. I'll link to the Bluetooth dongle I bought later once I'm off my phone.

Do you have an Android smartphone? A generic Bluetooth OBDII dongle and the $5 (or free lite version) of Torque is cheaper and better than a crappy handheld code reader.

Your Pathfinder is drive-by-wire and does not have an IACV. What code(s) do you currently have?

Sounds good. Do you want part numbers? Provide your VIN if you do.

The PCV valve is buried under the lower intake manifold on VQ35DEs. It's hell to get to. If you decide to change it, put some red threadlocker on the power valve screws while you're there too. Might as well change out the spark plugs when everything is so easily accessible with the LIM off, you're getting close to having 65k on them if you changed them around 105k. If you want gasket and PCV part numbers I can post them.

All Nissan / Infiniti models with the VQ35DE recommend premium fuel. There is certainly a benefit to doing so, I notice better engine performance over 87. VG engines will not benefit from premium.

Use www.imgur.com

There's no need to overthink things, really. Just about anything will work fine. Mobil Super 5000 5W-30 and a Purolator Classic L14610 should be cheap at WalMart, about $16 total.

Engine oils today are tested against American Petroleum Institute certifications. The current specification is API SN. If an oil meets API SN (or even recent, but outdated specifications like SM and SL), it will not cause sludge or significant deposits unless you run the oil too long, or there are mechanical issues (such as a malfunctioning PCV system, intake air leaks causing excessive dirt entry, coolant entering the oil) which deplete the oil's additive package quickly and render it unable to protect the engine and prevent deposits from occurring. In most engines and driving conditions, any SN conventional oil with any filter will easily make it 5k miles. Fram ToughGuard are alright filters since they have a silicone anti-drainback valve compared to the ExtraGuard's nitrile. Fram Ultra filters are built like tanks and are great filters, though unless you have 7.5k oil change intervals or higher I wouldn't bother with it. I'd still pick a Purolator Classic for cheaper at WalMart over a Fram ExtraGuard.

Purolator, Bosch, Wix, NAPA Gold filters are all fine, pick any. Pennzoil HM 10W-30 should be fine. Why 10W-30 over 5W-30? 5W-30 will flow better at lower temperatures and both a 5W-30 and 10W-30 are within the same viscosity grade at operating temperature. There is no advantage of a 10W-30 over a 5W-30.

My info was a bit wrong. You don't need to disassemble the switches, just unsecure them from the HVAC control unit (you may want to remove the stereo cluster, unscrew the HVAC controls, push them in then under to gain better access), then the bulbs are in twist bases, then continue replacing the bulbs. See here for some more pictures about the buttons and how big the LED "replacement" is in comparison.

3. If you have an auto Pathfinder, you already have an engine oil cooler. I run a B&M 70268 transmission cooler in-line with the stock cooler. A B&M 70264 is slightly larger and will fit just fine, so I suggest installing that along with a Magnefine in-line filter. 4. For the diffs, any synthetic 75W-90 easily available. If there's Advance Auto Parts near you, you can obtain Mobil 1 75W-90 for pretty cheap if you order online using discount codes then pick-up in store. You'll need about 5 quarts total. I'd also suggest a fluid pump to make filling the diffs easier. For the transfer case, any synthetic ATF claiming to meet Dexron III specification will work fine. Do you have the part-time or full time transfer case? I think fleurys fabricates some heavy duty rear trailing arms, hopefully he'll swing by this thread with some info. I don't know anything about your other questions, sorry.

They won't fit, I tried and they are simply monstrous compared to the socket. You have to remove the switch, unclip the front, pull out the bulb holder, uncoil the bulb wires, pull it out, then install the new bulb by threading the new wires in and folding them as necessary, then trimming the wires and reinstalling. It'll be more obvious when you see the bulb holder. I have some pictures I can dig up later, I'm on my phone. Sorry if my explanation sucks, hah.

No, LEDs don't fit in the AC & recirc buttons and you can't solder them (copper covered plastic). I've replaced mine with 12v microbulbs from Radio Shack. They are brighter than the stock bulbs. Auto HVAC control button lighting can be replaced with NEO3-x LED bulbs from SuperBrightLEDs. Manual control backlights are 74 bulbs, use tri-LED bulbs for the best result.

Advance Auto Parts can be cheaper if you order online using discount codes and pick up in store. They have Bosch direct fit sensors. Bosch is the original manufacturer of the sensors.

Brake booster check valve may not be sealing properly too. Pretty sure I suggested that earlier?