Towncivilian

Throttle body spacers do nothing.

RockAuto. Google for a 5% discount code too.

Hygroscopic means it absorbs moisture readily. Though if the gasoline has ethanol in it, this is less of a problem since ethanol "dries" the gas.

On R50s, the coolant temp gauge gets in the middle at about 152 degrees F. I don't know at what temp it starts climbing past the middle, hope I never find out too. It's really a dummy gauge.

Have you changed the transmission fluid since the service? Fluid degrades with heat and to a lesser extent, time. Wear materials build up as well.

The thermostat is fully open at 176. I had the A/C on and was stuck in traffic for a while then I was idling in my driveway for a few minutes, which is why I was at 185. How long does it take your Pathfinder to reach 176? Intake air temp depends on outside temp, and the throttle body is heated so that can increase it too (although the intake air temp sensor is very close to the beginning of the air intake, even before the air box, so I dunno if the throttle body coolant lines can affect it). Mine got to 130ish once!

This is my Torque setup: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12783812/torque/2013-02-19%2015.48.04.png https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12783812/torque/2013-02-19%2015.48.33.png Idiot forum software won't let me image tag those for some reason - "You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community." No PNGs? What is this, 1996?

Buy Torque, it's a great app and well worth the $5. Our ECUs are a little slow (my girlfriend's G5 updates like lightning in comparison), so a $20 Bluetooth OBDII scanner will work fine.

The front flaps are held in with a few 10mm bolts and one Phillips screw. The rears are secured a little more complexly, I don't recall the specifics at the moment.

I still think MAF sensor is causing your problems. Nonetheless, could you post all current engine codes?

You'll be fine, I replaced the rear shocks and ran with them alone for a while. The ride was still much improved.

The technical data sheet does not list GL-4, only MT-1. I think you should replace your entire fill with Redline MT-90 or Amsoil MTG, and be sure to overfill of course.

If you use omnidirectional LEDs for illumination, the lighting should be fairly even. I used tri-SMD LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs in my cluster and they are fine. I also have LEDs in everything else. If I use the dimmer switch, some bulbs buzz and depending on the setting they even flicker.

The manual can tow 3500 pounds. I don't think the manual received any upgrades to back the larger engine, but I'm not completely certain. Manual R50s with VQ35DEs lack the power valves and engine oil cooler that the auto variant has, but other than that I believe they are identical. For in-depth differences of the HD trans upgrade, see here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25568-re4r01a-hd-transmission-information/ Not sure how towing capacity is determined, sorry.

Have you ensured that Lucas stuff is GL-4 only? You have a WD21 4WD, correct? Have you overfilled the trans accordingly? Fram oil filters are alright, though I'd stick with the ToughGuard (or Ultra, formerly known as XtendedGuard) filters which have a silicone anti-drainback valve versus the ExtraGuard's nitrile. Nitrile can become hard and brittle over time, especially during winter with more extreme heating and cooling cycles. You should be able to go 5.5k with either filter, and up to 7.5k miles safely using M1 and either filter so long as there are no mechanical issues. Everything else looks good. Use a synthetic ATF that claims to meet Dexron III spec for the power steering.

Changed the fuel filter within the past two years? How's the fluid level and condition of the transmission fluid?

01+ also got a heavier duty automatic transmission variant to back the more powerful engine.

You can test your brake booster, see BR-23 for instructions. If you have a vacuum gauge, you can test the check valve too - see BR-25.

Just because a filter looks dirty doesn't mean it's clogged or should necessarily be changed. Filters do get more efficient as they load up with contaminants, and the air filter can flow more than the engine needs anyway - see this post. If you really want to know exactly when to change your engine air filter, you can install a restriction gauge to determine when the filter's restricting flow too much.

See Alkorahil's reply in this topic:http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33577-brake-pedal-question I wouldn't go for an aftermarket part in this case.

A brake booster check valve is a cheaper thing to rule out. It could be sealing improperly.

Bosch is the original manufacturer of the OEM parts, so they should work fine. AAP might be cheaper after discount codes, so check there too. Don't forget about the RockAuto 5% code either.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="adamzan" data-cid="654135" data-time="1360457569"><p> What about the fact that the vq burns more oil than gas after a certain mileage.</p></blockquote> Mine doesn't burn a drop even after 5k miles at 139k. Excessive oil consumption is more than likely caused by improper maintenance or maybe an ingested power valve screw causing engine damage (a rarity).

I have never had issues with MAF, coil packs, crankshaft position sensors, none of that @&#33;*%. Just get a 2001.5 or newer and you will most likely be fine.

Oops, my memory failed me there. I forgot about that, my bad!