Towncivilian

Could you try to get a picture of the leaking part? It could be the water control valve or its gasket. If it is, it's accessible without pulling the trans, but you will need to pull the intake manifolds and fuel rail if I recall correctly. Has the coolant ever been changed?

I find it impossible to believe that the PCV can be replaced without removal of the upper and lower intake manifolds. Are his hands snakes? I bet they used a Fram PCV or something. How could he have unclipped the PCV hose without any tools? I think you should pull the UIM and LIM, apply red thread locker on the power valve screws, and replace the PCV valve and the gaskets where required. Do you want parts numbers for everything? Provide your VIN if you do.

Who replaced the PCV valve? Was an OEM part used? Were the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets replaced, as well as the throttle body's? Any engine codes present? Ideally, thread locker should have been put on the power valve screws while everything was apart too.

Where did you get the unchipped key made? Lowes refused to make one for me, stating some bull@!*% that a nonchipped key would confuse the ECU. I'm not an idiot, I won't try to start the car with a nonchipped key and even then, the security light would blink and nothing would happen.

Must be, then. The 1999.0 FSM has an NVIS subsection in the EL section, so I just assumed it was on 99.0 too.

Certain 96 - 98 models (with some tow package, maybe?) had the auxiliary dinky transmission cooler. Looks more like a power steering cooler to me, it's tiny.

Your '97 doesn't have a chipped key. NVIS was introduced with '99 model years.

from this thread

You can use either GL-4 gear oil (do not use GL-5 or dual rated GL-4/GL-5 stuff) or Dexron III ATF in the transfer case. Do not mix the two. Synthetic ATF is preferred if you plan to use ATF; I'd suggest Valvoline MaxLife since it is synthetic and has a beefy additive package. Otherwise, Amsoil MTG or Redline MT90 are great GL-4 options.

All keys must be learned by the Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System. Only the dealer is able to program them as far as I know. Perhaps Lowe's is creating a duplicate using the code used in your current key. I don't know if this will have any side effects with NVIS. You can use some zip ties to be able to put the key on a key ring. I'll dig up some example photos later.

The dealer probably doesn't have any info about this yet. Wait a while for some recall TSB to appear, perhaps. Mine is 10/00 so it's pretty far away, I doubt it'll be extended to apply to my Pathfinder.

Recall acknowledgement Defect notice

Recalls are always free.

I thought so too, it doesn't. The links apparently died, I'll mirror them later.

Nope, he's a veiled chameleon. Jackson's chameleons have horns.

NHTSA ID 13V136000 Recall acklowedgement: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM436516/RCAK-13V136-1863.PDF Defect notice: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM436512/RCDNN-13V136-2445.pdf See the defect notice for affected vehicles based on manufacturing date.

My girlfriend's chameleon even likes Nissan

10W30 will be in the same viscosity range as a 5W30. If you *need* to go thicker, use an Xw-40. Also, additives are useless; again, if you need thicker oil, go to a 40 grade.

Bad engine coolant temperature sensor? Check its resistance values against the reference values given in the FSM.

Yes, change the strut mount and bearing. You should also replace the three securing nuts and center nut, as well as lower strut mount nuts (2 per side). These should be the correct part numbers for the fasteners: 01223-00321] NUT (quantity: 4) lower mount nuts (2 per side) [01225-00032] NUT (quantity: 2) upper strut center nut (1 per side) [01225-00231] NUT (quantity: 6) upper mount nuts (3 per side)

This TSB is definitive for all Nissan vehicles 1988 and up for which cooler line is which. The cooler outlet is on the passenger side of the vehicle on R50s.

The stock cooler will help warm up the transmission quicker. There is no reason to bypass it on R50s.

It's no big deal to mix them. You can also disconnect the return line and have somebody turn the wheel while you pour new fluid in to flush the system, though a siphon & fill is adequate. You can do it several times with a bit of driving in between until you've gone through the quart.

If you are not experiencing oil leaks or consumption, any conventional oil changed out at a 5k mile interval will work well. High mileage oils have more detergent and antiwear additives as well as seal conditioners. They are typically on the thicker side of their viscosity grade as well. If you can get an HM oil for the same price as a conventional, I would go for it. Valvoline NextGen MaxLife may be on clearance at your local WalMarts for $13 per 5 quart jug. I would use that in the 5W-30 grade at 5k intervals with a Purolator Classic filter. If you can't find any jugs on clearance, any 5W-30 will be fine (just not the Accel non detergent SA rated crap that's intended for air compressors ). I hope this helps!

Try siphoning out the reservoir of fluid and putting a synthetic ATF meeting Dexron III spec in, it might quiet the pump down.