Towncivilian

Did you replace the copper crush washer on the transmission drain plug and torque the plug to 25 ft-lbs? The washer should be replaced every time the drain plug is removed.

The 05+ Pathfinders and Frontiers also can experience the same issue. Nissan issued a radiator warranty extension up to 8-years 80k miles (full coverage), but that went in effect just recently (October 2012-ish) and it's too little, too late. It is ridiculous.

Yes, my recommendations were for the auto transmission. You're running a great fluid and have overfilled the transmission, so you're good to go there. Change the differential(s) and transfer case fluid if they haven't been changed in the past two years, and grease the driveshaft more regularly if towing.

An auxiliary transmission cooler and in-line filter are also very good ideas if you will be towing regularly. Even then, on a WD21 you should have both of these already with their relatively fragile transmissions and insufficient stock cooler.

That fluid should be okay. Have you checked the transmission fluid level properly? 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt.

What specifications does the Lucas fluid meet? What brand of filter did you use? Was the O-ring placed on the filter intake tube properly before insertion? A transmission "flush" is nothing more than a complete fluid exchange utilizing the transmission cooler lines to drain the old fluid while fresh fluid is added. Sometimes shops will add some gorilla snot "cleaning" chemical, but this is not necessary. If a transmission fails soon after a complete fluid exchange, the transmission was doomed anyway. Leaving a contaminated lubricant in a transmission will not help it live any longer.

What fluid was used? Was a full fluid exchange performed, or just a drain and foll? Had the transmission previously been serviced? Were there any issues being experienced with the transmission prior to the service?

96 does not have NVIS. Maybe a theft warning alarm, but not NVIS. If you have a security LED on the dash somewhere, make sure it isn't blinking after a failed start.

Actually, the safety benefit of DRLs isn't particularly apparent. DOT HS 811 029 found that when considering (1) two-passenger vehicle crashes excluding rear-end crashes, (2) single-passenger-vehicle to pedestrians/cyclists crashes, and (3) single passenger-vehicle to motorcycle crashes. "The analysis found that DRLs have no statistically significant overall effects on the three target crashes. When combining these three target crashes into one target crash, the DRL effects were also not statistically significant" Light trucks & vans did benefit from DRLs though, in one of the crashes studied. But I feel that anything that will help visibility of my vehicle towards other drivers is a good idea, and LEDs especially draw so little current that I cannot see a downside other than the initial cost and time spent for installation.

It should come out with a 10mm socket, I think. That's what it looks like to me anyway. No reason why you couldn't replace it. I'd probably avoid using the cheapest fitting you could find though, they are probably more prone to rusting or failure.

Does a warm/hot start always fail?

Not a Pathfinder, but I changed the engine oil in a friend's 2001 Xterra(ble) and also installed his new radio. On the to-do list is differential oil (rear only - 2WD), fuel filter, power steering fluid (had to top it off - was at cold min mark, think one of the hoses is weeping slowly, O-ring?), ATF, brake fluid...

Don't forget the biggest auxiliary cooler you can fit.

I don't advise buying a Hayne's or Chilton's manual when the factory service manual and very detailed guides are available on forums such as NPORA and NICOclub. Spark plugs have a 105k mile interval, and 173k is close enough. I'd replace them with the proper OEM specified NGK plugs. There's an excellent, thorough pictorial guide on spark plug replacement on NICOclub. Welcome to NPORA!

Not perceptibly.

Not applicable to the VQ35, there is no "back" plug that's impossible to access. All are equally difficult to access except plug #4 which requires the IACV to be removed.

HM oil is worth a try. It will likely slow the oil consumption. It may take several oil changes with the HM oil before you see any significant difference, so do not be discouraged if nothing changes with the first use of the oil.

If that were true, wouldn't the synthetic molecules leak out of your engine, leaving the conventional molecules there? It may be true that synthetic oil, at the time it was introduced, caused leaks in vehicles due to the different basestocks compared to conventional oil and lack of proper seal compatibility additives. However, synthetic oil today is compatible with all seals and almost certainly will not cause any leaks. I've read of synthetic oil clearing up some sludge that is creating a "false seal" which then creates a leak, but if you've kept up with oil changes and there are no other mechanical issues you should have no trouble switching to synthetic oil. If leaks do happen to pop up, switching back to your oil of choice should stop them in a couple hundred miles. Not that synthetic oil is inherently "better" at reducing wear or providing lubrication. There is very little benefit to running synthetic oil for anything shorter than a 6k mile oil change interval, except in extreme conditions like very cold temperatures where synthetic will flow better. Check out this person's many used oil analyses. He ran Pennzoil Ultra for many OCIs, then switched to Mobil Super 5000 and achieved about the same oil change interval length with no increase in wear.

I think the second option will be easier, but I don't know which one will be cheaper. I think a hardware store should be able to physically cut the key for you, and then the dealer can program it. You should be able to purchase the correct OEM blank key with chip online, if you want me to find the part number and get the lowest price Rob should be able to help you in this thread.

Short trips are not good for the oil, no matter if it is a conventional or synthetic oil. Short trips do not allow the oil to reach operating temperature for extended periods of time. Moisture never gets boiled off, and since the engine constantly runs in open loop there is more fuel dilution of the oil. Switch to a conventional oil and a cheaper filter and change every 3k miles if you cannot get the oil to operating temperature weekly, at least. Oil consumption may be caused by a malfunctioning or clogged PCV valve, which is unfortunately buried under the lower intake manifold on our VQ35DE engine. However, since you say it's been consuming oil since you've had the car, it's more likely there was preexisting damage - possibly neglect by the previous owner, or a power valve screw worked itself loose and was ingested by the intake, which then caused engine damage (scored cylinder walls, etc).

Try following the preliminary check described on page EL-226 of the factory service manual.

If it blinks, the start issue is due to the security system.

Does the security light blink after a failed start?

Even if an independent mech had the CONSULT-II, it is highly doubtful that they can actually access Nissan's network to pull the ECU ROM for flashing. I will dig up the TSB for you soon. You don't have spark plug wires, go return them. Spray silicone spray in the window tracks to clean them out and they should work faster.

Have you tried loosening and retightening ground screws?