xplitive

Hey TC, were you able to find the TSB? Have a buyer provided I can clear the check engine light. thank you

just remembered also did front CV axles at the same time. updated profile to MKE, WI but doesn't seem to be showing yet.

Hi all, haven't been over to the new site until just now looks great. Came across a 2002 Isuzu Trooper with a 5spd and 60K so couldn't resist to try something 'new' especially since it was a 4 door, 4wd SUV with a stick. Can't keep the Pathy unfortunately and need to do one particular service to help resell it. The check engine light has been on for about 70K miles now. A while back I located the PDF of the service bulletin and can't relocate it to figure out what to ask the dealer. It involves reprogramming the ECM to a wider range so the O2 sensors don't think something wrong and tell you the banks/cats are bad. I recall my build date (March 2000) met the build range that the service bulletin was for. Any help would be appreciated, just don't want to go into the dealer and get the run around. Would an independent have the CONSULT machine to do this? Interested in hearing what folks think price ranges are for a 2001 SE with about 129K on it. Gold ext/beige cloth int. Moonroof. Bought it around March 2010 with about 95K on it from a friend. She was transferring overseas for work and couldn't take it. I remember her mentioning she bought it with about 60K on it and the check engine light was on then. Looks, runs, drives great although does have the normal quirks for that year. The better - no rust, been one winter in Wisconsin. Rest of time in the NW (don't use salt there) and Florida. I think around 20K miles ago added warn manual hubs, OME HD/MD springs, KYB struts and shocks, while everything was disassembled went ahead and did the trailing arms (still have the old ones and upon inspection they didn't need replacing). I have spark plugs and wires to do but haven't found the time to do it yet. I change the oil regularly ( and grease the one fitting on the driveshaft) and carfax shows regular service routine service. The bad - These are - the back windows go up slowly, more so in winter, occasionally has the transmission flare, uses/leaks about a quart of oil/1500 miles (use is probably the PCV thing with this engine and believe the leak is the rear main seal which also has been going for a while). Pretty clean but accident shows on carfax. My friend was waiting to pull around a sitting car and got clipped on the front corner by the battery by an overtaking vehicle. Major dealer did the insurance repair, I'm sure they billed more than the car was worth. I slid the vehicle off the road after hydroplaning in one of the those south florida rainstorms and tore the bumper cover. Replaced it but didn't paint it. Daily driver, would keep it if I could. I would have no issue taking long distance trips in it and often do because we didn't want to put miles on our other vehicle. Gets about 17.5 mpg in my daily driving and on summer blend/regular unleaded. I ran premium for a while and didn't notice a difference. Thinking I might ask $5500 and settle at $5K.

I think its essentially a heavier load rated spring therefore maybe a stiffer ride. Rugged Rocks, a sponsor here, was the cheapest I could find and they have npora discount code posted here. HD/MD is a very popular combo and I'm glad I went with it.

I feel much better then.. although I have access to a 2 and 4 post lift with air tools.. think I'll stick to oil changes that way I know I'm done in less than 30 minutes for sure .

yeah thats the more correct term I couldn't remember. jeez age is setting in.

The advance auto parts website has the correct pn's and they are GR2. I just entered for my year and type vehicle. I bought mine through there with various discounts they had, don't know if they are the cheapest place though.. too lazy to dig out the part numbers right now. Stock application rear KYB shocks seem fine, I haven't noticed any unusual noises yet from being too short. I had asked for the correct length rear shock on here but didn't get any responses on measurements. Note: The ranchos, price wise, I believe are cheaper than KYBs. I don't think you need camber bolts and a strut spacer with the OME springs but do with AC. I haven't done an alignment yet and not sure if I will. Seems to drive straight and no apparent crazy camber/caster.

just went to get my measurements - looks like I am at 20" center of hub to bottom of fender flare after lift all around. Also - sounds like you are thinking suspension will make you more capable of road. That is only one part of the deal. Suspension lift allows you to run bigger tires which give you more ground clearance. At the moment, all this lift is giving me is increased driveline angles and a bigger gap at the fender well. Oh and a much improved ride. If your suspension is truly shot and you are bottoming out on the rear, it will be very obvious when you look and see marks from the bump stop hitting.

I just had the OME HD/MD springs installed this week. Here is what I bought new and had installed: Front - OME HD, KYB struts and strut bearings reused everything else (boots, mounts, etc - they were original, the boots could've used replacing). Also had done at the same time: new axles to replace my original blown ones and warn hubs. You do not need to buy the warn hubs, I wanted the extra gas mileage (also they may not fit your year wheels). Rear - OME MD, KYB Gas Adjust shocks, dorman control arms. I bought the dorman arms because I thought mine were shot, after removing my old ones, did not need to replace the control arms. Prior measurements from center of hub to bottom of flare: Front - 18.5", Rear - 17.5". Need to measure new height and get my before and after pics. The first day the truck had the stinkbug stance but it leveled out and looks pretty even maybe slightly higher in the rear. Ride is great, was worried it might be too harsh. best I can say relate it too is my FJ Cruisers ride. Oh, I have the same size tires as you. Thinking 265's when I need to replace these.

I was about to install my OME rear springs this weekend when I noticed, after removing the passenger side rear wheel, heavy, smelly axle fluid coming out through the wheel studs. Removed the drum and it was a mess in there. The wheel cylinder was fine and looked like everything was being tossed up from the axle. This happened once before less than a year ago so I took it to a different shop this time. I was under the impression that the center diff and axles need to be pulled to get this done and it would be a fairly involved process. The shop certainly played along with that. After picking up the vehicle from the new shop I noticed there didn't appear to be any marks on the nuts around the center section indicating someone took a socket to it. Quick search here.. which I should have done first.. and I came up with this: "for the cost of a seal you could do it yourself - undo the metal brake line, undo handbrake cable, undo 4 bolts that hold the hub and bam the axle stub/hub pops out. the seal just sits in the axle housing." Is it really this simple to get the axle out and replace the seal(s)? If it is, I've overpaid I'm sure and why it keeps happening has not probably been addressed (unless the shot suspension could be a contributor). If it is this simple, I want to follow up with the shop tomorrow and get them to give me a warranty period versus trying to get money back. Good note is that while it was there I had them install the OME HD/MD spring combo, dorman rear arms, kyb shocks, kyb struts, new front axles and warn hubs. All the stuff coming off was original except for maybe the rear control arms. The rubber is completely fine and after a quick wipe down, the black coating for the most part is intact. Overall, I'm very happy with the ride.. was a little worried it might be too stiff and feel like its crashing into something everytime I hit a bump but its not and very close to the ride of my FJ. I'll post pics of the new stance and measurements later. thanks

rock auto and there is a discount code on here.

Ok, I have acquired what I believe is everything to do my suspension. One thing I'm not positive on is will stock application KYB gas adjust rears be long enough with OME medium rears (922)? Also here is what I have, am I missing anything (besides someone to install LOL)? Front OME Heavy Coils 928 KYB GR2 struts Nissan strut bearings. (Skipped the strut mounts, they look original, never messed with and in good condition.) Warn hubs Rear OME Medium Coils 922 KYB Gas Adjust shocks - stock application Dorman control arms (4)

wow! that is a lot of info there... aaah great another website to troll... sounds like you've done most of things I'm trying to do so note to self to check your posts. Are you talking diff fluid on the FJs? Mine is an 08 so I hope that is late enough in the model run, although I'll have to check out the forums for more info. A-TRAC is a sort of traction control that brakes individual wheels to keep traction going in deep slop. I don't have any offroad experience with this so I can't tell you much more than what I've read. I believe it is only on 4wd models but not positive. PS thanks on all accounts for info

soooo... has anyone done this? And where in a factory equipped one is the on/off button for fog lights? I have two locations each with two knock out plugs for switches - (1) center under the CD changer and (2) up on the left side of the dash by the side mirrors control. Or it is on the stalk? Don't think I will be going through the trouble to change out the stalk though.. On my FJ Cruiser, the A-TRAC switch is just like this, if you didn't order the option from the factory everything is present except for the actual switch. $20 part later you are good to go. I wouldn't mind installing some other auxiliary lights using the factory harness if that is possible.

Well I accidentally slid my 2001 SE off a slick road and tore the front bumper cover. When removing the turn signals to get to some of the bumper attaching points I found a taped up harness with a blue plug on each side. It seems to have enough length to reach the bumper, is this an installed factory harness for optional fog lights? If so, any recommendations for lights, I wouldn't mind putting them to use. This site has been a great help - discovered I had the "stuff" from the factory for a remote key fob, found one on ebay and it works great! It was kind of a PITA with only one lock cylinder on the drivers side.