xplitive

Hey TC, were you able to find the TSB? Have a buyer provided I can clear the check engine light. thank you

just remembered also did front CV axles at the same time. updated profile to MKE, WI but doesn't seem to be showing yet.

Hi all, haven't been over to the new site until just now looks great. Came across a 2002 Isuzu Trooper with a 5spd and 60K so couldn't resist to try something 'new' especially since it was a 4 door, 4wd SUV with a stick. Can't keep the Pathy unfortunately and need to do one particular service to help resell it. The check engine light has been on for about 70K miles now. A while back I located the PDF of the service bulletin and can't relocate it to figure out what to ask the dealer. It involves reprogramming the ECM to a wider range so the O2 sensors don't think something wrong and tell you the banks/cats are bad. I recall my build date (March 2000) met the build range that the service bulletin was for. Any help would be appreciated, just don't want to go into the dealer and get the run around. Would an independent have the CONSULT machine to do this? Interested in hearing what folks think price ranges are for a 2001 SE with about 129K on it. Gold ext/beige cloth int. Moonroof. Bought it around March 2010 with about 95K on it from a friend. She was transferring overseas for work and couldn't take it. I remember her mentioning she bought it with about 60K on it and the check engine light was on then. Looks, runs, drives great although does have the normal quirks for that year. The better - no rust, been one winter in Wisconsin. Rest of time in the NW (don't use salt there) and Florida. I think around 20K miles ago added warn manual hubs, OME HD/MD springs, KYB struts and shocks, while everything was disassembled went ahead and did the trailing arms (still have the old ones and upon inspection they didn't need replacing). I have spark plugs and wires to do but haven't found the time to do it yet. I change the oil regularly ( and grease the one fitting on the driveshaft) and carfax shows regular service routine service. The bad - These are - the back windows go up slowly, more so in winter, occasionally has the transmission flare, uses/leaks about a quart of oil/1500 miles (use is probably the PCV thing with this engine and believe the leak is the rear main seal which also has been going for a while). Pretty clean but accident shows on carfax. My friend was waiting to pull around a sitting car and got clipped on the front corner by the battery by an overtaking vehicle. Major dealer did the insurance repair, I'm sure they billed more than the car was worth. I slid the vehicle off the road after hydroplaning in one of the those south florida rainstorms and tore the bumper cover. Replaced it but didn't paint it. Daily driver, would keep it if I could. I would have no issue taking long distance trips in it and often do because we didn't want to put miles on our other vehicle. Gets about 17.5 mpg in my daily driving and on summer blend/regular unleaded. I ran premium for a while and didn't notice a difference. Thinking I might ask $5500 and settle at $5K.

I think its essentially a heavier load rated spring therefore maybe a stiffer ride. Rugged Rocks, a sponsor here, was the cheapest I could find and they have npora discount code posted here. HD/MD is a very popular combo and I'm glad I went with it.

I feel much better then.. although I have access to a 2 and 4 post lift with air tools.. think I'll stick to oil changes that way I know I'm done in less than 30 minutes for sure .

yeah thats the more correct term I couldn't remember. jeez age is setting in.

The advance auto parts website has the correct pn's and they are GR2. I just entered for my year and type vehicle. I bought mine through there with various discounts they had, don't know if they are the cheapest place though.. too lazy to dig out the part numbers right now. Stock application rear KYB shocks seem fine, I haven't noticed any unusual noises yet from being too short. I had asked for the correct length rear shock on here but didn't get any responses on measurements. Note: The ranchos, price wise, I believe are cheaper than KYBs. I don't think you need camber bolts and a strut spacer with the OME springs but do with AC. I haven't done an alignment yet and not sure if I will. Seems to drive straight and no apparent crazy camber/caster.

just went to get my measurements - looks like I am at 20" center of hub to bottom of fender flare after lift all around. Also - sounds like you are thinking suspension will make you more capable of road. That is only one part of the deal. Suspension lift allows you to run bigger tires which give you more ground clearance. At the moment, all this lift is giving me is increased driveline angles and a bigger gap at the fender well. Oh and a much improved ride. If your suspension is truly shot and you are bottoming out on the rear, it will be very obvious when you look and see marks from the bump stop hitting.

I just had the OME HD/MD springs installed this week. Here is what I bought new and had installed: Front - OME HD, KYB struts and strut bearings reused everything else (boots, mounts, etc - they were original, the boots could've used replacing). Also had done at the same time: new axles to replace my original blown ones and warn hubs. You do not need to buy the warn hubs, I wanted the extra gas mileage (also they may not fit your year wheels). Rear - OME MD, KYB Gas Adjust shocks, dorman control arms. I bought the dorman arms because I thought mine were shot, after removing my old ones, did not need to replace the control arms. Prior measurements from center of hub to bottom of flare: Front - 18.5", Rear - 17.5". Need to measure new height and get my before and after pics. The first day the truck had the stinkbug stance but it leveled out and looks pretty even maybe slightly higher in the rear. Ride is great, was worried it might be too harsh. best I can say relate it too is my FJ Cruisers ride. Oh, I have the same size tires as you. Thinking 265's when I need to replace these.

I was about to install my OME rear springs this weekend when I noticed, after removing the passenger side rear wheel, heavy, smelly axle fluid coming out through the wheel studs. Removed the drum and it was a mess in there. The wheel cylinder was fine and looked like everything was being tossed up from the axle. This happened once before less than a year ago so I took it to a different shop this time. I was under the impression that the center diff and axles need to be pulled to get this done and it would be a fairly involved process. The shop certainly played along with that. After picking up the vehicle from the new shop I noticed there didn't appear to be any marks on the nuts around the center section indicating someone took a socket to it. Quick search here.. which I should have done first.. and I came up with this: "for the cost of a seal you could do it yourself - undo the metal brake line, undo handbrake cable, undo 4 bolts that hold the hub and bam the axle stub/hub pops out. the seal just sits in the axle housing." Is it really this simple to get the axle out and replace the seal(s)? If it is, I've overpaid I'm sure and why it keeps happening has not probably been addressed (unless the shot suspension could be a contributor). If it is this simple, I want to follow up with the shop tomorrow and get them to give me a warranty period versus trying to get money back. Good note is that while it was there I had them install the OME HD/MD spring combo, dorman rear arms, kyb shocks, kyb struts, new front axles and warn hubs. All the stuff coming off was original except for maybe the rear control arms. The rubber is completely fine and after a quick wipe down, the black coating for the most part is intact. Overall, I'm very happy with the ride.. was a little worried it might be too stiff and feel like its crashing into something everytime I hit a bump but its not and very close to the ride of my FJ. I'll post pics of the new stance and measurements later. thanks

rock auto and there is a discount code on here.

Ok, I have acquired what I believe is everything to do my suspension. One thing I'm not positive on is will stock application KYB gas adjust rears be long enough with OME medium rears (922)? Also here is what I have, am I missing anything (besides someone to install LOL)? Front OME Heavy Coils 928 KYB GR2 struts Nissan strut bearings. (Skipped the strut mounts, they look original, never messed with and in good condition.) Warn hubs Rear OME Medium Coils 922 KYB Gas Adjust shocks - stock application Dorman control arms (4)

wow! that is a lot of info there... aaah great another website to troll... sounds like you've done most of things I'm trying to do so note to self to check your posts. Are you talking diff fluid on the FJs? Mine is an 08 so I hope that is late enough in the model run, although I'll have to check out the forums for more info. A-TRAC is a sort of traction control that brakes individual wheels to keep traction going in deep slop. I don't have any offroad experience with this so I can't tell you much more than what I've read. I believe it is only on 4wd models but not positive. PS thanks on all accounts for info

soooo... has anyone done this? And where in a factory equipped one is the on/off button for fog lights? I have two locations each with two knock out plugs for switches - (1) center under the CD changer and (2) up on the left side of the dash by the side mirrors control. Or it is on the stalk? Don't think I will be going through the trouble to change out the stalk though.. On my FJ Cruiser, the A-TRAC switch is just like this, if you didn't order the option from the factory everything is present except for the actual switch. $20 part later you are good to go. I wouldn't mind installing some other auxiliary lights using the factory harness if that is possible.

Well I accidentally slid my 2001 SE off a slick road and tore the front bumper cover. When removing the turn signals to get to some of the bumper attaching points I found a taped up harness with a blue plug on each side. It seems to have enough length to reach the bumper, is this an installed factory harness for optional fog lights? If so, any recommendations for lights, I wouldn't mind putting them to use. This site has been a great help - discovered I had the "stuff" from the factory for a remote key fob, found one on ebay and it works great! It was kind of a PITA with only one lock cylinder on the drivers side.

I was looking at replacing the pcv to see if it would help my oil consumption but decided 1 qt ever 1500 miles looks normal, even for those that replaced their pcv's. Most folks just replaced the entire valve cover but I never knew why.. thinking your experience must be the reason - ouch!

Sounds great! Is this a muffler and tip or full magnaflow exhaust system? I couldn't find a system in their catalog so guessing its a muffler and tips. there stuff is pretty nice in my opinion.

are the dorman replacement arms any good? seems like a lot of money for poly bushings.. $225 wow (I'd prefer 1 piece), should be able to get all the arms from rockauto for the same price. wonder if I can find some johnny joints that fit.

that is good advice so I started my homework with the reading and discovered not a whole lot of information on timing chain replacement for a VQ35DE. I actually only found one post (not much detail) that someone did it and most others say it doesn't need replacement. That would make sense since there don't appear to be any common 'kits' that contain everything like the timing belt kits. odd thing is my owners manual says to do it at 60K and adjust valves at 90k. ok.. back to more searching and eventually posting in the R50 forum and trying to figure out why there are so many variables for when the 2001 yr model actually started. A bunch of the parts places have before/after a particular month in 2000 and others split at 2001 and 2002 and I think I also saw 2001.5 on one site.

Hi all, owned a 2001 for about a year and 12K miles (total 111K) now. started looking for information to do some maintenance repairs myself and found this great site! Mine seems to have most of the issues of a pretty original and early 2001 - 1) check engine light been on for at least 60k miles, looks like there is a service bulletin to reprogram the range for the O2 sensors. may skip this, runs great 2) drives great, settles out quick over bumps but tires appear worn on the inside. maybe a rotation issue or struts/springs/trailing links (all look original), sometimes feels like it wallows a bit after going through a dip? 3) slow back windows 4) leaked oil, changed the oil cooler o-ring. slowed it down significantly but drips some when running synthetic 5) seems to use quart of oil every 1500 miles or so. Found some stuff about changing the valve cover/pcv, think I'll just monitor for a while. 6) noticed the cv boots just tore recently. those look original too. cv axle change/manual hubs coming up? considering plans for OME springs, new shocks/struts, dorman trailing arms, cv axles, manual hubs. I don't think the timing belt has been changed so that/water pump/spark plugs? I need to add the expenses up and plan to try this myself if I go through with it. Fortunately live in flat Florida so this could be on hold for a while. bought the car from a coworker who was going overseas courtesy of a deployment, it spent at least 5 years in the NW and Alaska. Body, undercarriage looks great which surprised me coming from that harsh climate.

thanks guys - just looked through the garage section, didn't realize it was there and sure enough has majority what I think I'll be doing. Rick, how long have you had the GSP's in there? I guess your experience and phantoms are quite different. I was thinking about OME coils and new struts/shocks at about the same time because everything looks very original under there. maybe should save the $ for a newer vehicle... Also - phantom, are you sure you had the GSP's? the box is blue but I couldn't find "made in ??" anywhere on it. Advance does have another line which the counter guy was telling me I needed (the 4x4 ones). they are about $20 cheaper than the GSP's. They didn't have any in stock else I would've checked the box and manufacture location.

Hi everyone! just joined looking to try some repairs/maintenance myself on my '01. Went and looked at the GSP brand from Advance, looked pretty solid as mentioned. Is there a difference between AWd and 4X4 axles? The counter guy kept saying these were AWD, not sure what the difference is, if any. Would like to try them for the online price and earlier endorsement, does anyone have a link on how to change these out? Was wondering if there are some other maintenance items I might as well do while in there.