Towncivilian

What kinda fluid is in there right now? When was it last serviced? Is the level correct (check it according to steps in the FSM)?

I got some OEM unchipped blank key from Amazon. I intend to get it cut so I can open the doors should I lock myself out somehow. Problem is Lowes, etc seem to refuse to copy a chipped key onto an unchipped key due to idiots trying to use it as an ignition key and some crap about "using an unchipped key to unlock the doors can confuse the system" (bull@!*%). Would Ace Hardware do what I want? If not, who would?

The brake fluid looks pitch black. Have them flush it or knock $100 off.

I second replacing strut mounts and bearings, and upper/lower strut mount nuts. I used Raybestos strut mounts and bearings and they have been fine for 15k miles so far. Can't go wrong with OEM though, had I sourced my mounts and bearings from Rob it wouldn't have been much more.

It is facelifted and looks like 2000-2004 model years, but otherwise is the same mechanically as 1996-2000. If you get a 1999.5, just order parts for a 2000 to reduce confusion; parts stores, etc will be like "THERE AIN'T NO 1999.5". Though if you order parts from a dealer, you usually provide the VIN so they won't have any trouble.

In addition to full synthetic fluid in the differential(s), the power steering fluid can definitely benefit from synthetic ATF being used, especially in cold weather. Less groaning and moaning and it'll operate smoother. In the summer, it'll run cooler too. Also think about putting synthetic ATF in the transfer case and transmission too (when financially convenient for you of course). As said above, fresh coolant is a must, and if you haven't flushed the brake fluid within the past two years, do so while everything isn't frozen. Same with the fuel filter.

http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html

Make sure the four door switches have the rubber cover centered over the switch.

There is only one on the front driveshaft for 4WD Pathfinders IIRC. A flexible hose will be helpful.

Actually 2001+ have a weaker rear LSD (significantly less breakaway torque), and 2003-2004 has an even weaker LSD than 2001-2002. If you get an open diff 96-2004 are all probably the same. 2001+ has a RE4R01A-HD (heavy duty) transmission which is beefier to back the VQ35DE. But other than that there are no differences between 96-00 more or less.

I suggest this ODB2 reader and Torque Pro ($5) if you have an Android smartphone.

You see that bracket next to the A/C low pressure line (with the green cap), with the gray plug attached to a bracket on the side of the engine? The gray plug is the original sensor's harness. Trace it back to find the sensor.

I don't know its exact location but it is on the passenger side. Removing the engine cover may help you find it. Its harness is connected to the passenger side too, there will be a red and a blue colored connector attached to a bracket if I recall correctly.

Get 12v microbulbs from Radio Shack, they are inexpensive and fit perfectly in hazard, defroster, A/C and recirculation buttons, and QX4 analog clocks.

That is the correct part. Did you use any discount codes?

See EL-87.

I don't believe the recall expires. If the rust is bad enough, it can condemn your vehicle which is why I suggested to have that inspected first before worrying about the oil pan, etc. Of course I don't wish anybody's vehicle to be bought back due to rust, but severe rust in the strut housing is very dangerous. Out of curiosity, is the transmission pan rusting as well?

Has your Pathfinder been inspected for the strut housing corrosion recall yet?

Worthless

I need the manufacturing date of your Pathfinder to determine which sensor is correct for your engine, which can be found on the driver door jamb sticker.

Yes. Mine is plumbed after the auxiliary cooler.

Magnefine is an inline transmission filter containing about 35 micron filtering media and a magnet similar to the one found in a transmission pan. All fluid is directed over the magnet so effectively all ferrous wear material is captured; this somewhat increases the overall efficiency of the filter. There is a bypass valve should the filtering media become clogged; even with the bypass in operation, all fluid is still directed over the magnet so some filtering is still being done. The filters cost around $20 shipped. You can find photos of its internals after 13k miles in use on my Pathfinder here.

OK, sounds good. Ideally after a trans failure the filter would be after all the coolers to catch any debris that may work itself out of the coolers, but that's in a worst case scenario if the trans grenaded and spewed junk throughout the lubrication circuit *and* the lazy salaried tech didn't flush the cooler(s) like he was supposed to. Your setup is fine, keep it as is. Your trans failure was not catastrophic so there shouldn't be a gigantic amount of debris in the aux cooler, especially because the filter probably caught it all already.

You can run the Magnefine for 10k miles I feel before replacement. Or if you're doing a full fluid exchange using the cooler lines, I would suggest to do that in 5k miles (most break in wear will have occurred by then) and replace the filter at the same time. Then do full fluid exchanges plus Magnefine replacement every 30k miles. Is the Magnefine plumbed after your aux cooler? What is the cooler rated for? If you don't know, provide its model number.

Bank 1 is the side with cylinder 1, in our case passenger side. Sensor 1 is the upstream sensor. If you can wait until morning I'll provide a link to the direct-fit Bosch O2 sensor (Bosch is the original equipment manufacturer) from AAP along with a discount code, and which size O2 sensor socket you'll need. It should be very easy to replace an upstream sensor, there's much less wire to snake around.