Towncivilian

PSF and ATF are nearly identical fluids, but PSF generally doesn't contain the friction modifiers found in ATF for obvious reasons (no clutch packs). Viscosity at operating temperature varies somewhat of course, but all are rather thin around 6-8 cSt. Using ATF, of which Dexron II or III (depending on your Pathfinder's model year) is specified as suitable for use in the power steering system does not cause leaks. Putting in gorilla snot to thicken up the fluid is a bandaid and will lower cold weather performance significantly. It is always better to fix the leak when finances permit. After fixing the leak, flush the system using a synthetic ATF (Valvoline MaxLife ATF, Mobil 1 ATF, Amsoil ATF or PSF are good options) and add in a Magnefine in-line filter on the return line. The fewer contaminants floating around in the fluid, the less chance another leak may occur in the future since the fluid isn't full of abrasives which can damage seals. Siphon & fill the reservoir every 20-30k afterwards to refresh the additive package.

It should not be low. You have a leak of some sort.

It'll be fine for one oil change. Just don't make it a habit. Nothing wrong with Fram Ultra filters, they have full synthetic wire-backed media, metal end caps, a silicone anto-drainback valve, and a very thick outer canister, all for $9 at WalMart. I would not hesitate to run one on any vehicle I service; a Fram Ultra cartridge filter is going in my girlfriend's car this weekend. I'd run a Fram Extra or ToughGuard filter if I got one for free, but I won't purchase one.

M1 filter blends conventional and synthetic media for higher capacity IIRC. For nonextended oil change intervals there is no benefit. Why are you running 5W-20? It is not specified for the engine. A 0W-30 would be a better option for winter.

As far as I know, it would be a drop-in replacement. Make sure you get the same axle code (HG43 or HG46) though, I don't think you can upgrade to an HG46 if you have a HG43 axle - maybe on a 2WD Pathfinder, but then your speedometer would be off by a small amount I think.

You should use clear silicone on the camera at all the seams, screw holes, etc. Even if it claims it's waterproof, it's probably not. You can use a T-tap to get ignition switched power from the 12v wire at the ODBII port. Ground can be found at the hood opener too, at one of the bolts, just connect a ring/eyelet terminal to the end of the wire. The green wire should be connected to the reverse circuit somehow I believe, maybe one of the reverse lights? Not sure where to obtain power for the backup camera. There might be something you can use in the driver's side quarter panel behind the trim, maybe the wiper relay or tap into the audio amp relay 12v ignition switched wire (if you have the amp of course). Not sure about the front camera either.

What was your bleeding order?

Your 2000 has the VG33E. VQ35DE is distributorless. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Ensured the air filter seals properly?

Not necessarily. It may increase current draw of the fuel pump since it has to work harder to pump, but a clogged or highly restricted fuel filter usually manifests issues when trying to reach higher RPMs, not starting and idling. But you never know, and fuel filters are relatively cheap anyway. I wonder if Stabil Marine will help 'freshen' the gas at all? It may at least deal with any water build up.

Reset the code and see if it comes back. It may not light the CEL, so you'd have to scan manually. It might just be a bad tank of gas too.

Stale gas? Clogged fuel filter?

Don't run to replace the knock sensor just yet. Are there any other codes? Try running a 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner.

I don't think a CAI will provide much benefit. The throttle body is more restrictive than the stock housing anyway. I'd stick to the stock system with a paper air filter.

Failed start due to lack of chip. Not sure about any other 'side effects'.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/

It may be time to replace the in-line filter if you haven't yet. The filter has captured break-in wear from new parts and crap from the rebuild process.

I've had a similar experience. The defroster switch's bulb was dead, so I put in a bulb from a junkyard '87 Hardbody bulb (26 year old bulb still works!) and then my odometer started lighting up with the headlights off - it never did this before. There must be some weird circuit of some sort, I can't explain it. Make sure all of your interior lighting bulbs are functional - glove box, ash tray, A/C button bulbs, hazard & defroster switch...

What kinda fluid is in there right now? When was it last serviced? Is the level correct (check it according to steps in the FSM)?

I got some OEM unchipped blank key from Amazon. I intend to get it cut so I can open the doors should I lock myself out somehow. Problem is Lowes, etc seem to refuse to copy a chipped key onto an unchipped key due to idiots trying to use it as an ignition key and some crap about "using an unchipped key to unlock the doors can confuse the system" (bull@!*%). Would Ace Hardware do what I want? If not, who would?

The brake fluid looks pitch black. Have them flush it or knock $100 off.

I second replacing strut mounts and bearings, and upper/lower strut mount nuts. I used Raybestos strut mounts and bearings and they have been fine for 15k miles so far. Can't go wrong with OEM though, had I sourced my mounts and bearings from Rob it wouldn't have been much more.

It is facelifted and looks like 2000-2004 model years, but otherwise is the same mechanically as 1996-2000. If you get a 1999.5, just order parts for a 2000 to reduce confusion; parts stores, etc will be like "THERE AIN'T NO 1999.5". Though if you order parts from a dealer, you usually provide the VIN so they won't have any trouble.

In addition to full synthetic fluid in the differential(s), the power steering fluid can definitely benefit from synthetic ATF being used, especially in cold weather. Less groaning and moaning and it'll operate smoother. In the summer, it'll run cooler too. Also think about putting synthetic ATF in the transfer case and transmission too (when financially convenient for you of course). As said above, fresh coolant is a must, and if you haven't flushed the brake fluid within the past two years, do so while everything isn't frozen. Same with the fuel filter.

http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html

Make sure the four door switches have the rubber cover centered over the switch.