Towncivilian

Why does this thread keep being marked as unread for me every time I visit?

You would most likely be getting coolant in the engine oil if your headgasket was blown. Get a used oil analysis to verify that there is indeed coolant in the oil. NAPA sells UOA kits for fairly cheap (kit includes the price of the UOA) although the turnaround time can take a couple weeks.

Is your brake fluid level between MIN and MAX?

Have you checked the transmission fluid level and condition yet? Sounds like you're jumping the gun thinking it's an electrical problem. 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. If you can't do this, follow steps 2-4 and ensure the fluid is within the "LOW" notched area. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt.

Does it happen when using cruise control? I would also try the following: Adjust accelerator and cruise throttle wires' slack (see FE-3 and EL-161 respectively, for instructions) Ensure throttle body return spring and the spring on the accelerator pedal are not binding and are properly secured Clean throttle body and MAF sensor (use throttle body cleaner and MAF cleaner only) Check intake tubing for damage / leaks Change fuel filter EDIT: Wow, this forum software is idiotic. It can't even handle my list.

Clean your throttle body. Maybe carbon buildup is causing the plate to stick a little.

Rob is a very helpful parts guy who works at a Nissan dealer in Texas. See his thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/

I also get the slamming into gear if I try to jump the gun and accelerate before the gear has fully engaged. Simple workaround is to wait until you have felt the trans shift before taking your foot off the brake. I have 144k miles, fluid is recent + 20oz. of Lubegard Red, transmission cooler and Magnefine inline filter.

Yes, Lubegard Red is one of the few additives I will recommend in any circumstance. I use it in my Pathfinder and it seems to do as advertised - it's not a miracle in a bottle, but it sure helps.

A couple days of driving in between drain and fills is sufficient. The approximate drain and fill capacity is 4 quarts (use a graduated bucket to measure what you drained). Use a new crush washer for the drain plug on the last drain and fill. The torque spec is 25 ft/lbs for the drain plug. This article should help you locate the transmission pan's drain plug as well as the part number for the crush washer. You can ignore the steps to drop the pan since that was already done by the shop and should not be necessary for the rest of the vehicle's lifetime (unless there's a problem) after one pan drop to clean the magnet and change the filter.

Yes, that amount of wear and delay between gears does not sound like anything to worry about. I advise that you do several more drain and fills to get the majority of the old fluid out, and consider adding an auxiliary transmission cooler and inline filter as well.

What fluid was used by the trans shop? Was a full fluid exchange done, or just the fluid replaced during a pan drop? Were any additives added by the shop? It's not so much a delay as just a sluggish engagement of 2->3. The 'excessive' debris may just be all the break in wear and crud from the manufacturing process. A transmission generates 75% of its lifetime wear within the first 5k miles, and if the fluid isn't changed early then it just accumulates and compounds further wear. Transmissions also have poor filtration so it is not unreasonable for the magnet to be fuzzy. 1/4" shavings seems way too large, though. I'm not sure what to suggest.

Actually, some oils have lower NOACK values (volatility at high temperatures) which means less will evaporate at high temperature areas and at high load conditions. Low NOACK values can be especially beneficial for direct-injection engines. Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 has the lowest NOACK value currently with 6.4%; typical values are 10%+. All engines consume ("burn") a small amount of oil by nature. Whether this ends up to be a noticeable amount by the end of your OCI depends on other factors (driving style, if there are any other mechanical problems, oil leaks, etc).

See the relevant trouble diagnoses on page EL-61 of the factory service manual.

First swap the driver and passenger side bulb to see if the problem moves or stays at the same light. If it moves, the bulb is at fault. If not, there is something with the wiring going to that headlight.

Yea, post-facelift tail lights will fit. Wiring might be a little taut due to different spots for lights (don't recall which, reverse lights maybe?). Is that a Lego rim on the driver rear wheel? Welcome to the R50 world! Change all the fluids and filters.

PCV is easily accessible on your engine. Use an OEM part only.

Check your oil cooler lines.

The Xterra I installed the same radio in grounds through the radio antenna cable.

That seems like much less of a headache than using a line-output converter.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5mpmm482r0VLS1fQTZuaVFKZTA/edit?usp=sharing

Good question, I thought MrT was the OP since he said he has the Bose system. Bose = line-output converter required Stock/base speakers = plug in radio, you're good to go

Sorry, my mistake - you are correct that you won't need an installation kit. It will fit fine without any further accessories. I still believe you require a line-output converter, because the stock Bose speakers are all 2-ohm and the radio only supports 4 or 8 ohm speakers, plus the stock Bose speaker amps will still be operational.

You'll need a wiring harness, and probably a single-DIN installation kit if you don't want a hole below the radio. Will you be using the stock Bose speakers? If so, you'll also need a line-output converter to maintain compatibility with the speakers. If you will be replacing all four door speakers, I highly suggest your friend run new speaker wire to each door since the existing wiring must be modified to bypass the Bose speakers' amps and that is a headache. I just installed that stereo in a buddy's Xterra the other day. Neat unit.

I believe the RE4R01A is known for hard 1->2 shifts and sloppy/lazy 2->3 shifts. Even my RE4R01A-HD trans does this.