Towncivilian

A couple days of driving in between drain and fills is sufficient. The approximate drain and fill capacity is 4 quarts (use a graduated bucket to measure what you drained). Use a new crush washer for the drain plug on the last drain and fill. The torque spec is 25 ft/lbs for the drain plug. This article should help you locate the transmission pan's drain plug as well as the part number for the crush washer. You can ignore the steps to drop the pan since that was already done by the shop and should not be necessary for the rest of the vehicle's lifetime (unless there's a problem) after one pan drop to clean the magnet and change the filter.

Yes, that amount of wear and delay between gears does not sound like anything to worry about. I advise that you do several more drain and fills to get the majority of the old fluid out, and consider adding an auxiliary transmission cooler and inline filter as well.

What fluid was used by the trans shop? Was a full fluid exchange done, or just the fluid replaced during a pan drop? Were any additives added by the shop? It's not so much a delay as just a sluggish engagement of 2->3. The 'excessive' debris may just be all the break in wear and crud from the manufacturing process. A transmission generates 75% of its lifetime wear within the first 5k miles, and if the fluid isn't changed early then it just accumulates and compounds further wear. Transmissions also have poor filtration so it is not unreasonable for the magnet to be fuzzy. 1/4" shavings seems way too large, though. I'm not sure what to suggest.

Actually, some oils have lower NOACK values (volatility at high temperatures) which means less will evaporate at high temperature areas and at high load conditions. Low NOACK values can be especially beneficial for direct-injection engines. Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 has the lowest NOACK value currently with 6.4%; typical values are 10%+. All engines consume ("burn") a small amount of oil by nature. Whether this ends up to be a noticeable amount by the end of your OCI depends on other factors (driving style, if there are any other mechanical problems, oil leaks, etc).

See the relevant trouble diagnoses on page EL-61 of the factory service manual.

First swap the driver and passenger side bulb to see if the problem moves or stays at the same light. If it moves, the bulb is at fault. If not, there is something with the wiring going to that headlight.

Yea, post-facelift tail lights will fit. Wiring might be a little taut due to different spots for lights (don't recall which, reverse lights maybe?). Is that a Lego rim on the driver rear wheel? Welcome to the R50 world! Change all the fluids and filters.

PCV is easily accessible on your engine. Use an OEM part only.

Check your oil cooler lines.

The Xterra I installed the same radio in grounds through the radio antenna cable.

That seems like much less of a headache than using a line-output converter.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5mpmm482r0VLS1fQTZuaVFKZTA/edit?usp=sharing

Good question, I thought MrT was the OP since he said he has the Bose system. Bose = line-output converter required Stock/base speakers = plug in radio, you're good to go

Sorry, my mistake - you are correct that you won't need an installation kit. It will fit fine without any further accessories. I still believe you require a line-output converter, because the stock Bose speakers are all 2-ohm and the radio only supports 4 or 8 ohm speakers, plus the stock Bose speaker amps will still be operational.

You'll need a wiring harness, and probably a single-DIN installation kit if you don't want a hole below the radio. Will you be using the stock Bose speakers? If so, you'll also need a line-output converter to maintain compatibility with the speakers. If you will be replacing all four door speakers, I highly suggest your friend run new speaker wire to each door since the existing wiring must be modified to bypass the Bose speakers' amps and that is a headache. I just installed that stereo in a buddy's Xterra the other day. Neat unit.

I believe the RE4R01A is known for hard 1->2 shifts and sloppy/lazy 2->3 shifts. Even my RE4R01A-HD trans does this.

Page AT-39 of the factory service manual

I also get 16-17 MPG with my 2WD VQ35DE. +1 on synthetic transmission fluid, transfer case and differentials. Engine air filter doesn't matter much in the way of MPG, an SAE study found that on modern fuel injected vehicles the air filter has to be *extremely* clogged before MPG is affected even a small amount. But nonetheless, it's a good idea to replace if it looks extremely dirty or the seal is not good anymore (which IMO is the most important part). Spark plugs are due at 105k intervals, use the specified NGK spark plugs only. Clean MAF and throttle body too. Maybe change the fuel filter if it's more than a few years old too. Driving style matters much more than all of the above, I think. If I keep it under 2k RPM I can squeeze 18MPG out of 17 gallons or so.

Glad to help!

Yep, that's it. Must be a different part for WD21s than R50s, but the issue is the same.

The recall acknowledgement and defect notice from April includes 2001-2003 Pathfinders. But I'll take the word of a Nissan TSB over NHTSA docs.

If one or both bumpers are missing, cruise doesn't work. The bumper just 'snaps' into place, look at the brake pedal and you'll see two switches and a circular opening where the bumper goes. Hopefully the cruise bumper is still there as a reference point for you.

Huh, I had to replace my cruise control bumper a few weeks ago and I got the same looking black one. I did give the guy an exact part number that FAST pulled up, maybe there has been a revision since? That probably would've showed up for him anyway. Damn thing was like $13 too.

Check the brake light switch's rubber bumper. It probably disintegrated and fell off. You'll find it on the floor mat around the pedal.

AX and PD sections will have the required torque specs. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/ax.pdf http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/pd.pdf