Towncivilian

Seafoam does not have PEA. Products with PEA are: Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner Gumout Regane Redline SI-1 CRC Guaranteed to Pass Chevron Techron ProGard might have a small amount of PEA, I'm not exactly sure. But it's not worth buying. Redline SI-1 contains the most PEA per product but is not easily found in local stores. Gumout Regane High Mileage is probably the best bang for the buck found at your local WalMart for $5something IIRC. Techron is often BOGO at some auto parts store every month too. I would tend to use them for the tank before an oil change in case any of the stuff gets in the oil through fuel dilution. Even though it'd be a minuscule amount, I'd rather not chance anything. Multiple trips long enough to get everything nice and hot with time to sit between drives is better for the cleaner to work more effectively than burning through the entire tank on a highway run.

This may be semantics but fuel injector cleaner is different from fuel system cleaner. Techron 'ProGard' fuel injector cleaner does not have PEA which is the most effective fuel system cleaner on the market while the more expensive Techron fuel system cleaner does. Seafoam is basically all solvents and while it may clean things, it can also leave its own deposits behind. PEA cleans without leaving anything behind.

Try bleeding the clutch slave cylinder. Shouldn't take long to replace all the fluid.

What's so bad about having to take the door panel off? It takes 5 minutes

Looks the same as my mom's G37's diff plugs. IIRC I used a 10mm drain plug socket. Buy this drain plug socket set from Harbor Freight and use a printable 20% off coupon. It will have the socket you need for both newer and older Nissan drain and fill plugs. Our Pathfinders will use the 13mm drain plug socket. You might want a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter to use with a breaker bar if the plugs are very tight, too.

It died on you even with an auxiliary transmission cooler? Damn, that's some bad luck there. Is the transmission fluid still red & doesn't smell burnt?

Can you please post a list of all current engine codes? Have you tried following the diagnostic procedure of steps 1, 2, and 5 for P0340 on page EC-273 of the factory service manual? P0325 is more than likely just a symptom of the other codes and does not necessitate knock sensor replacement.

Checked for vacuum leaks, intake air leaks? Air filter sealing OK? Tried running Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner (20oz bottle) through the gas tank? Ensured that the TPS wiring harness connector is clean, securely connected, and free of corrosion and wiring damage? I swear there was a TPS adjustment procedure in the FSM but I can't find it right now. Maybe somebody else will.

Look at page BR-6 of the factory service manual. At the stop lamp switch, there is supposed to be a small rubber bumper. There is a small hole the bumper will just snap in to, the bumper has a groove. All you have to do is push it in. The rubber bumper will look something like the one found on this page, but as ahardb0dy said above it might be black in color. The cruise cancel switch also uses the same bumper. Check your brake pedal to make sure that one isn't missing one either. If you still can't find it, I'll take a picture of mine.

The bumper just pushes in, takes maybe 3 minutes to replace. Most of that time will be maneuvering your head to where you can see the brake light switch.

Your brake light switch's rubber bumper disintegrated. You'll probably find it on the floor mat somewhere. You need a new one, buy one from the dealer. Perform preliminary inspection and run the ABS self-diagnosis following the instructions on page BR-34 of the factory service manual. Have you ever flushed the brake fluid?

Yeah, anything related to recalls is always free whether it be inspections or repairs. Warranty work generally is free too (seatbelt replacement, certain emissions components if you're still within their respective warranty periods, etc).

Did you clean and relube the caliper slide pins?

Yep, Syl-Glide is great. NAPA sells it.

On VQ35DE engines, the oil filter is at the front of the vehicle, above the engine undercover / air deflector. I don't recall its location on a VG33E engine.

Download the FSM here. To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate. You'll want to view the EM section for torque specs. For the most part, the FSM is better than the Chilton's/Hayne's manuals.

Why does this thread keep being marked as unread for me every time I visit?

You would most likely be getting coolant in the engine oil if your headgasket was blown. Get a used oil analysis to verify that there is indeed coolant in the oil. NAPA sells UOA kits for fairly cheap (kit includes the price of the UOA) although the turnaround time can take a couple weeks.

Is your brake fluid level between MIN and MAX?

Have you checked the transmission fluid level and condition yet? Sounds like you're jumping the gun thinking it's an electrical problem. 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. If you can't do this, follow steps 2-4 and ensure the fluid is within the "LOW" notched area. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt.

Does it happen when using cruise control? I would also try the following: Adjust accelerator and cruise throttle wires' slack (see FE-3 and EL-161 respectively, for instructions) Ensure throttle body return spring and the spring on the accelerator pedal are not binding and are properly secured Clean throttle body and MAF sensor (use throttle body cleaner and MAF cleaner only) Check intake tubing for damage / leaks Change fuel filter EDIT: Wow, this forum software is idiotic. It can't even handle my list.

Clean your throttle body. Maybe carbon buildup is causing the plate to stick a little.

Rob is a very helpful parts guy who works at a Nissan dealer in Texas. See his thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/

I also get the slamming into gear if I try to jump the gun and accelerate before the gear has fully engaged. Simple workaround is to wait until you have felt the trans shift before taking your foot off the brake. I have 144k miles, fluid is recent + 20oz. of Lubegard Red, transmission cooler and Magnefine inline filter.

Yes, Lubegard Red is one of the few additives I will recommend in any circumstance. I use it in my Pathfinder and it seems to do as advertised - it's not a miracle in a bottle, but it sure helps.