Towncivilian

Change the fluid (drain & fill) in 1k miles and then in 3k miles and install a Magnefine. There will be new break in wear and crap from the rebuild process (the shop is not a clean room) you'll want to get out of there ASAP.

You used carb cleaner on the MAF? Or is that the "TB & Carburetor Cleaner" can? Either way, MAF sensor cleaner spray or isopropyl alcohol (preferably 91%) only!

Wouldn't a 96-97 D21 trans swap in without a problem too, and have the correct filler location? What about D22 (Frontier) transmissions? Many options here. Is any specific year 'beefier' than the other?

Did WD21 cloth seats have heated seats as an option? Do WD21 seats fit in an R50?

Yes, a transmission cooler is highly recommended even if you don't tow. That Hayden one is rated for 30k GVW, highest I've seen at a reasonable price. I have a B&M 70268 and it's 19k GVW; a B&M 70264 is thicker but otherwise has the same dimensions and is rated for 24k GVW. I'll probably upgrade to that Hayden unit eventually just for the hell of it, haha.

Good choices! √ I don't think your VG33E will receive any benefit from anything higher than 89 octane though. It specifies 87; it's reasonable that 89 might be beneficial if the engine can advance timing far enough, but 91/93 would be a stretch. I would also tend to run a fuel system cleaner in the tank immediately prior to changing the oil because some of the cleaner can get into the oil through fuel dilution. An admittedly very small amount, yes, but it can be prevented. I doubt it will cause any issues either way otherwise it'd be stated on the bottle's instructions, but I like to err on the side of caution. You know for next time.

Wow, big difference. Looks great. Nice work! I wonder how that rust got there, has your Pathfinder been in FL its whole life?

Wiper cowl?

Seafoam does not have PEA. Products with PEA are: Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner Gumout Regane Redline SI-1 CRC Guaranteed to Pass Chevron Techron ProGard might have a small amount of PEA, I'm not exactly sure. But it's not worth buying. Redline SI-1 contains the most PEA per product but is not easily found in local stores. Gumout Regane High Mileage is probably the best bang for the buck found at your local WalMart for $5something IIRC. Techron is often BOGO at some auto parts store every month too. I would tend to use them for the tank before an oil change in case any of the stuff gets in the oil through fuel dilution. Even though it'd be a minuscule amount, I'd rather not chance anything. Multiple trips long enough to get everything nice and hot with time to sit between drives is better for the cleaner to work more effectively than burning through the entire tank on a highway run.

This may be semantics but fuel injector cleaner is different from fuel system cleaner. Techron 'ProGard' fuel injector cleaner does not have PEA which is the most effective fuel system cleaner on the market while the more expensive Techron fuel system cleaner does. Seafoam is basically all solvents and while it may clean things, it can also leave its own deposits behind. PEA cleans without leaving anything behind.

Try bleeding the clutch slave cylinder. Shouldn't take long to replace all the fluid.

What's so bad about having to take the door panel off? It takes 5 minutes

Looks the same as my mom's G37's diff plugs. IIRC I used a 10mm drain plug socket. Buy this drain plug socket set from Harbor Freight and use a printable 20% off coupon. It will have the socket you need for both newer and older Nissan drain and fill plugs. Our Pathfinders will use the 13mm drain plug socket. You might want a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter to use with a breaker bar if the plugs are very tight, too.

It died on you even with an auxiliary transmission cooler? Damn, that's some bad luck there. Is the transmission fluid still red & doesn't smell burnt?

Can you please post a list of all current engine codes? Have you tried following the diagnostic procedure of steps 1, 2, and 5 for P0340 on page EC-273 of the factory service manual? P0325 is more than likely just a symptom of the other codes and does not necessitate knock sensor replacement.

Checked for vacuum leaks, intake air leaks? Air filter sealing OK? Tried running Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner (20oz bottle) through the gas tank? Ensured that the TPS wiring harness connector is clean, securely connected, and free of corrosion and wiring damage? I swear there was a TPS adjustment procedure in the FSM but I can't find it right now. Maybe somebody else will.

Look at page BR-6 of the factory service manual. At the stop lamp switch, there is supposed to be a small rubber bumper. There is a small hole the bumper will just snap in to, the bumper has a groove. All you have to do is push it in. The rubber bumper will look something like the one found on this page, but as ahardb0dy said above it might be black in color. The cruise cancel switch also uses the same bumper. Check your brake pedal to make sure that one isn't missing one either. If you still can't find it, I'll take a picture of mine.

The bumper just pushes in, takes maybe 3 minutes to replace. Most of that time will be maneuvering your head to where you can see the brake light switch.

Your brake light switch's rubber bumper disintegrated. You'll probably find it on the floor mat somewhere. You need a new one, buy one from the dealer. Perform preliminary inspection and run the ABS self-diagnosis following the instructions on page BR-34 of the factory service manual. Have you ever flushed the brake fluid?

Yeah, anything related to recalls is always free whether it be inspections or repairs. Warranty work generally is free too (seatbelt replacement, certain emissions components if you're still within their respective warranty periods, etc).

Did you clean and relube the caliper slide pins?

Yep, Syl-Glide is great. NAPA sells it.

On VQ35DE engines, the oil filter is at the front of the vehicle, above the engine undercover / air deflector. I don't recall its location on a VG33E engine.

Download the FSM here. To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate. You'll want to view the EM section for torque specs. For the most part, the FSM is better than the Chilton's/Hayne's manuals.

And the other 10% is 12mm! Good one