Towncivilian

It is fine. Shake up the bottle before pouring it in.

That line often clogs with carbon (well, relatively often as in it's a rather common problem). Not sure how exactly as the swirl valves are part of the intake.

If the issue is sulfur buildup on the fuel level sending unit, Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner may help clear it up.

Have you changed the fuel filter in the engine bay?

I don't understand how any "crud" can get sucked in from the bottom of the tank. The fuel pump pickup is at the bottom of the tank. What is there to suck up? There's also a sock over the pickup and the in-line fuel filter to catch anything. I suppose it's possible for the pickup screen to become clogged but most new cars have just that filter and I've never read of a case where it *needed* to be replaced - it's basically a lifetime filter (oh how I hate that term) and is to be replaced with the fuel pump assembly. The in-line fuel filter becoming clogged is certainly a possibility, I'm not sure they have bypass valves.

Yes, that's the area. The filter is actually beneficial in that regard, it can prevent a lot of crap from clogging the evaporator core.

1996 and above Pathfinders have cabin air filters. Even if it didn't come with them from the factory, it was easily added with a little X-Acto knife cutting.

At 105k miles, the spark plugs were due for replacement. If you don't have service records, pull a spark plug and see how they look. Replacement of all fluids would be a good idea as well. Transmission fluid, differentials, transfer case, engine coolant, brake fluid (and clutch if applicable), power steering fluid. Replace engine air, fuel and cabin air filters too. Have your Pathfinder inspected for the strut housing corrosion recall if it hasn't been yet. Call your local dealer (have your VIN ready) if you're unsure. Welcome to NPORA!

Check the vacuum hose at the cruise actuator. It could have a leak.

Actually, there is a drain plug crush washer which is supposed to be replaced every time the plug is removed. That will prevent any leaks by itself.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1997_Pathfinder/

No sealant is required. Teflon tape is suitable.

^ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ There is more info about filter minders and longevity of engine air filters here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3018433&page=1 (mostly beginning with Jim Allen's post about halfway down the page) http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2878886&page=1 (others' experiences with filter minders on many different engines)

Bypass the stock cooler and install an in-line filter as well for lower fluid temps, cleaner fluid and a happier automatic transmission.

I replaced my cruise cancel switch rubber bumper. Just popped right in. Old one disintegrated after 13 years, not too bad.

R50s have a hood switch next to the driver's side headlight assembly. Cool mod, nice work! Looks bright for sure.

Water should boil off after a little bit of time spent at operating temperature. Maybe go on some long curvy roads to help get the fluid hotter.

Indeed, power valves working themselves loose and getting sucked into the intake is an issue. It's rare, but it happens. The best thing to do is to apply red (permanent) Loctite; blue is fine too, but the screws should never need to be removed again for any reason. I agree on having the transmission, differential(s), power steering, coolant, brake fluid serviced. An auxiliary transmission cooler and an in-line transmission filter are also a great addition even if you do not tow or offroad. A B&M 70264 cooler is 24,000 GVW and will fit easily. You can see how I mounted my transmission cooler (a thinner 70268, but otherwise identical cooler), routed the hoses and the Magnefine in-line filter I used here: https://imgur.com/a/giVyz

Your 2003 R50 does not have an LSV, so bleed in this order: 1. Left rear brake 2. Right rear brake 3. Left front brake 4. Right front brake

You do not have to worry about the timing chain or water pump. You should replace spark plugs now, though. Has the fuel filter ever been changed? Cabin air filter?

Page SC-19 of the factory service manual shows removal and installation to be two bolts. How accessible those bolts are may vary if you have a 4WD. I'd imagine they are easy to get to on my 2WD without a front diff in the way.

Have you ever changed the transmission fluid? Do not add any additives except Lubegard Red, which is used by many transmission shops and has been mentioned specifically in some manufacturers' technical service bulletins. It will lower operating temperatures and help keep things operating normally. Bypassing the stock transmission cooler and running an auxiliary cooler with an inline filter is a very good idea too. Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner may help your fuel gauge issue if sulfur build up on the sender is the problem.

Sometimes the mechanism fails to work as intended (lack of lube, dust build up, etc) plus the adjuster has to wait for an entire groove in its mechanism before adjusting, so it may take a while. Also if it is adjusted too tightly it can't loosen itself.

Your ABS light should turn on for a second or two when you turn the ignition to "ON". You should also hear it self-testing when you first reach 5 mph going either forward or reverse. Is this the case?

Yes, ABS works during hard stops for me. Fluid is fresh (~3 or 4 months), rear drums recently cleaned, lubed, and adjusted along with parking brake and brake pedal free play. Front hardware needs some cleaning and lubing (awful squeaking lately) but is otherwise fine. Nice pedal feel after fresh fluid and everything adjusted.