Towncivilian

Install the following: Touchpad driver I could use more information. Please download, install, and run AIDA64 and click "Report" then under "Quick Report - All pages" click "Plain Text" and once the report is done generating, click "Save To File" and email the file to ligushka [at] gmail [dot] com. I really doubt you'd like Linux; it does not run the vast majority of the software that Windows does. But if you want to try it anyway, I'd suggest Ubuntu. Have you got some form of instant messenger? AIM, WLM, Skype, anything really? That'd be quicker than chatting here for more involved tasks.

I also suggest a clean reinstall of Windows, but if you don't have the necessary media or are uncomfortable with doing so, it's not a "must-do". Do not use any registry cleaner applications. They do more harm than good (in fact, there is zero perceptible benefit to doing so). Also, I would ditch AVG (it's turned into bloatware recently) and use Microsoft Security Essentials, which I and many others have lauded for its performance and unobtrusiveness. I also echo the Malwarebytes recommendation as posted by k9sar. Please post a dxdiag log by clicking Start -> Run -> typing dxdiag -> click "OK" -> click "Yes" if a dialog box pops up saying something about WHQL signatures -> click "Save All Information..." and post the contents of the saved log file here within tags. I will let you know if there are any driver or firmware updates you missed.

Since you bought your sensor from eBay, how about you go to your local dealer and verify that it's really the correct part? Maybe the MAF the dealership claims works fine is newer than the one you bought (i.e. the part you bought might have been superseded).

I am referring to those recirculation and A/C buttons, yes. Those found in the auto climate control unit can be swapped with LEDs if you so desire (LEDs are brighter and should last longer than the lifetime of the vehicle). There are some details in this forum thread if you want to use LEDs; otherwise you would use standard 12v microbulbs as in other switches, etc. I wasted some cash trying to swap in LEDs for my manual A/C control unit, and nothing worked; it's not even possible to solder LEDs in since the electrical contacts are basically plastic with some electrically conductive material painted on top. I did notice that new 12v microbulbs from Radio Shack were pleasantly brighter, though they are slightly too long and rubbed on the button's internals at first and some resistance was encountered with a button press, but after some use became smoother. If you happen to mess up a switch, make sure to check the local junkyard first, since the hazard switch and rear defroster switch are around $30 new from Courtesy Parts.

I worded that incorrectly. I meant that I had some RAM that would fit Tungsten's needs but it was already claimed by another person. The only PC2700 laptop RAM I have is a 256MB SODIMM.

I have a socket 478 3.0ghz unknown FSB chip on a motherboard right now with a Scythe Ninja heatsink mounted. Not sure I'll want to part with the Scythe Ninja HSF, though. The chip, maybe $20 if it turns out to be 400mhz FSB, I'll have to power the board up to check. I may have a PCI NIC in a box somewhere, and I'm almost certain I have one in the back of the PF right now. Will have to check. The laptop is in a box somewhere in the closet; I'll dig it up during the day sometime and find out what's in it.

What socket P4 do you need? 423, 478, 775? I have one 775 but it's too fast/new for you, and some unknown Socket 423 Willamette core (obscure, short-lived socket) chip. If you don't know, use CPU-Z to find out. You're not going to get a fanless HSF for any P4. They are space heaters and require active cooling. Why do you need a PCI NIC? Built-in one got fried? I've got some PC133 for you sitting in my glovebox but unfortunately it's going to another friend's older computer. If I come across some more though, I'll let you have it. I may have some laptop RAM for you too, will check when I get around to it. I don't have a PSU or video card for you.

@piste: The wiper/lighting stalks do not have lights. To access the hazard/rear defrost switches, follow this guide to the third picture. Disconnect the two switches from their harnesses, then use a precision flathead screwdriver to undo the clips so you can pull the switch apart. These switches are damn near impossible to reassemble (unless I've been doing it wrong somehow). If you damage the hazard switch's internal metal contacts, it will result in your turn signals not being functional, so be extremely careful with that switch. The mirror control knob thing does not have any lighting. I wouldn't know about the Bose system since mine was ripped out years ago before I inherited my PF. There is a decent guide with pictures on how to replace your heated seat bulbs with LEDs here, or you can simply follow the guide to replace the bulbs with new 12v microbulbs as well. Are your A/C button bulbs functioning (assuming manual A/C controls)? One of mine died recently so I decided to replace them both. I believe I have pictures of the teardown process to access the bulbs somewhere if you need them.

There is a PDF of a TSB about the procedure Nissan does to alleviate this issue: http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB01-005.pdf I presented a printout of this PDF to my local Nissan dealer and they said it'd cost $90. What a rip-off.

Yup, that works, links to your Photobucket album.

It's not. Use http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z468/pamountianbiker/th_IMG_20101223_110343-1.jpg' alt='th_IMG_20101223_110343-1.jpg'>

This looks like M90 (Diode (With manual A/C). I can't quite clearly see the colors of the wires in my picture, but I'll open it back up and see if they're G/R and Y/B. If they are, it's definitely M90. It's difficult to tell, maybe I'm wrong.

What's with all the hate toward the cargo shade? I use my stock quite often.

I did have the factory Bose system with 6CD changer. That plug taped to the harness was not in use, ever.

I also took pics of the backs and amps of all the Bose speakers from my 2001.5 R50: I kind of don't know which are which, but it would appear that the two front and two back are essentially identical save for orientation, obviously. I think the lone "2" on the sticker of all the speakers themselves indicate they're 2 ohms. Front door speakers Rear door speakers Front amps Amp box covers Front face of a rear speaker: All my speakers basically looked like this, not torn or anything. You can see I removed the black plastic ring around the speaker to be re-used as speaker adapter brackets for my new speakers. Not ideal, but they work in a pinch. If anybody needs measurements of the depth of the original speakers or other measurements, just let me know since I've got them sitting in a closet.

Don't know if this will help anybody, but I have a picture guide of accessing the stereo cluster in a 98-04 R50 Pathfinder. Pictures are based from a 2001.5 R50. To get to the CD changer: take a cloth-covered flathead screwdriver and pry the clock towards you from the right side, then two screws are visible. Unscrew those and more of the trim comes off; unclip the power socket's connector and then twist that trim out of the way, and then there are four screws for the stereo cluster, then four screws for the CD changer itself once the stereo cluster is pulled out. In fact, here are some pictures I took of the dashboard disassembly to get to the stereo cluster (click to enlarge): Next post has pictures of stock Bose speakers and amps from my 2001.5 R50.

I have it too on my 2001.5: No idea what it's for. Maybe I'll poke through the FSM to figure it out sometime.

To get to the CD changer: take a cloth-covered flathead screwdriver and pry the clock towards you from the right side, then two screws are visible. Unscrew those and more of the trim comes off; unclip the power socket's connector and then twist that trim out of the way, and then there are four screws for the stereo cluster, then four screws for the CD changer itself once the stereo cluster is pulled out. In fact, here are some pictures I took of the dashboard disassembly to get to the stereo cluster (click to enlarge):

Does that top switch release the glass hatch, or the trunk? My 2001.5 has neither of those switches. Those switches are on a 1998 XE?

I live in Palm City (38 miles north of West Palm Beach) and was wondering if anybody else is close by? My truck's never seen dirt but I wouldn't mind getting it dirty once or twice!

You've got a PM, skulptr.