88pathoffroad

No, it has the same problems and should be bypassed with an external cooler.

All four door Pathfinders from 1990 to 1995 will match your vehicle, frame-wise. If you're going that far, you might as well just lift the body off the old frame and swap frames. Depends on how bad the rust is.

Monroe, KYB, Bilstein, Rancho, Pro-Comp, Trailmaster and Rancho all make shocks for your vehicle...depends on what brand you like or stand behind and how you like your vehicle to ride. The off-road oriented shocks will make for a more bumpy ride, but will control hard hits better than Monroes or KYB GR-2's.

Have you eyeballed it yet to see if anything's rubbing, scraping or obviously deformed or damaged?

The inside-the-bumper-mounted lights should all be the same.

There are many things that can cause the problems you're describing. The throttle position switch is one of them, yes...

Bottom line, they DO NOT WORK and are a WASTE OF MONEY.

Hey!

ARGH Steering Stops. This has been covered a MILLION times. Use the search button.

Lovely...some things did change from 92-93, so if they got a 92 engine, I believe it. Run the ECU error codes and see why it's giving you a CEL. There's a link at the top of the Garage forum on how to do that.

Nope, no leveling system on any Pathfinder that I know of.

Yup. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'd leave it be.

If you're heavy on the gas, it'll overpower the benefits of the system every time and slide all over. You just need to go easy on it and it'll work like it's supposed to.

Look. If you want to lift the front, bumpstop measurements go out the window and you run with what you're comfy with. You can't run stock tolerances and clearances and still have a lifted suspension.

87-95 Pathfinder all fit, same thing. I see them on Ebay all day long for $25 or less each.

Not really...they do give better airflow and more power, just not as much as they hype them up to be.

First off, don't buy a tube-and-fin type cooler. They don't work as well as the plate type coolers. Buy a plate-type cooler. They work better and are LOTS more durable, less prone to clogging up with mud, etc.. Next, between the rad and the AC condenser is a great place. Aside fron that, in front of the AC condenser or radiator.

Mine's got 144,500 miles and doesn't leak a bit.

The panhard rod and stabilizer bushings should be fine, I'd leave them be unless they're visually deformed or otherwise not working properly.

Just a note, they only have 1994-2005 available. But that's a GREAT value if you know where to go and what files to save.

Normal breakdown of dino oil under use in an engine will do that, AFAIK.

www.car-part.com or nissanpartspro.com, perhaps...

You'll probably need to snip off the stock clamp and use a large-diameter hose clamp, like mzxtreme said.

The compression rod anchors and co-locates the lower control arm, which is the main load-bearing suspension part in the front end. The bushings are very important, and they tend to go bad after about 100,000 miles or so. Polyurethane replacement bushings are available from Energy Suspension.

The AC belt has it's own tensioner on top of the motor. Big bracket with it's own pulley. Loosen the pulley's center nut, then loosen the bolt on top of the bracket and the pulley will loosen and let the belt tension off.