88pathoffroad

T-belt lines won't line up after three rotations, it'll take one more to be back on line where it was when you put it on. That's normal.

Those are the wires for your stock adjustable shocks which aren't on there anymore.

If it's an auto, that's basically the first sign that the tranny is about to go out on you. Before it gets worse, change the fluid and add a tranny no-slip additive at the same time. Then bypass your stock tranny cooler. Replace the cooler with an aftermarket external cooler. See what happens after that.

" "Ceramic double rotor two wheel drive... computer controlled anti-lock brakes... 12,000 RPMS" (111.3 HP, 83kW)

Trannies don't generally get hot enough to bake the fluid like engine oil does. It's also isolated completely from any outside contaminants like gasoline, water and dirt, so it'll generally stay it's natural color for a long time.

Why not simply use Grade 8 metric bolts instead? Lee and Phil have both been using those instead of studs and they work fine.

Earth1: how about links? http://Nissan.damagedreality.com/LPCL1.jpg http://Nissan.damagedreality.com/LPCL2.jpg http://Nissan.damagedreality.com/LPCL3.jpg

It just sounds like they're getting old and are all dying on you. Brakes do that after a while, ya know? How many miles are on your Pathy?

If it only happens in 4WD when turning sharply, then it's drivetrain bind. The CV's aren't necessarily binding, but the difference in wheel speed between the front and rear tires while locked together by the transfer case is enough to put additional rotational strain on the CV's, hubs, driveshafts, transfer case and transmission, which will definitely slow your vehicle down and could possibly lead to damage to a drivetrain component.

I finally had the time and fair weather enough to get my L&P steering system installed. I'll let the pics do the rest of the talking on this one. Boy, does it steer easily now. I like it! I'm going to run it with the steering stabilizer off for the time being and see how it goes. Yes, that's a one-off idler arm brace, I made it myself.

Nissan suggests changing the tranny fluid every 30,000 miles... If it hasn't been done yet, I'd say you're driving on borrowed time.

Ohhhhhhh, you suck! (just upgraded from an AMD T-Bird 1.33 to a Duron 1.6, OC'ed to 1.97) Get the 19" monitor.

According to my book it should be a single wire, yellow with a red stripe.

It's under the "Common Problems and Fixes" topic in the garage.

Heh, cool. I bet she appreciates that.

Compression test it and see how it comes out.

It's probably just the stock intake. I've noticed on Pathys with a cone filter installed that the intake noise is dramatically louder, dammn near annoying. Try cleaning your intake passage and butterfly and see what happens. There's a sticky at the top of the Garage forum on how to do that.

Offhandedly, I'd bet it's secured from the inside. Tried taking off the inside hatch panel and looking at that side?

A VG33E will fit in there EASY if you can find one and swap all your FI components onto the block and heads. That's a good reliable swap to consider.

KANEDAAAAAAAAAAAA! *boom* *crash* *bam*

I have some regular TSL bias plys...they vibrate like a mofo until they warm up while driving. That and they're harder to keep in balance, but otherwise they're fine.

I'd guess fuel filter.

Those appear to be progressive rate coils for a JGC, but I have no way to compare them to stock coils and/or normal JGC coils. Normal JGC coils are not progressive rate like that(tight coils at the top, looser coils at the bottom).

I bet $5 that the lock linkages need lubing and replacing the little plastic linkage bits that keep them together. Take the door panel off and look for yourself.

Tell the shop owner that your lawyer will be the next person to talk to him about it....not you.