88pathoffroad

I bet you five bucks the fan clutch is shot and it just needs a new one. BUT!! Compression test that bastard before you buy it. If it has a cracked head or blown head gasket, you DO NOT WANT IT. Rebuilt Isuzu parts are NOT CHEAP.

Everything inside the doors should screw right in and they all have the same cutouts AFAIK. Swap it in and you're good to go, but the wiring's a PITA to stuff into the body, etc.

Basically, these guys have covered the bases. It needs to be properly lubed and adjusted before it'll start working right again.

The stock shocks in front will be fine, but the rear shocks will be near the limit of their travel, so longer rear shocks would be beneficial but not altogether necessary. It's pretty hard to damage shocks by overextending them. I'd send you some cheap springs if I could, flnl, but I think the shipping plus the taxes on your end would be a lot. I don't know...feel free to send me your info if you want me to check. I have a FedEx business account I can use to estimate costs with.

Nope.

Russia, I do believe. Those look like Bushwhacker cut-out flares with add-on rubber flare material.

That's not just an e-brake light. It is the main brake system warning light. Your brake fluid level is low. Check it before you run out!

Jim must have messed with it. I give up... *shakes head*

The measurement you need to worry about is the upper control arm to bumpstop clearance. The lower doesn't matter much. Why?

Actually, they are a little bit different, but close enough to work just fine. According to Rancho's web-based application charts, they have two apps listed for HB's and Pathys, one longer, one shorter for each. One shock stud is 12mm, the other is 14mm. Wierd, huh? Rancho RS5000 shock #5252 is the stock height Pathy front app, with 4.6 inches of travel. #5214 is lifted Pathy front app, 5.29 inches of travel. #5188 is the listing for stock HB 4x4 front, with 4.125 inches of travel. #5605 is the listing for a lifted HB 4x4 front, with 4.875 inches of travel. Apparently HB's have a little less front end travel. *shrug*

Very, very nice! I'm impressed and jealous! Great fab work on the exhaust manifold and intercooler install! God knows there's little enough room up front without an intercooler already there... I want to hear it run! Give us video, man!

The problem is that the stock air cleaner housing by itself isn't airtight, it has the warm-up tube/valve and various other openings that can and will suck water if it's dunked regardless of what you tape onto the end of the intake tube. You'd have to find an adapter that'll fit on top of the TBI and shoot sideways to a replacement air cleaner box with an air filter in it, then out the fenderwell the same way as the 90-95's. The TBI inlet is ovaled with squared corners, not round...that's the problem. If you cut out the bottom portion of the stock aircleaner, you could weld up a custom box that'd screw onto the TBI...provided you have the skills and equipment to do so with thin sheetmetal.

My t-case takes GL-4 gear oil, but they don't all use gear oil. Some use Dexron II/III auto tranny fluid.

He's right. On these engines, it won't do diddly squat but make the exhaust horribly loud and annoying. There's not enough overlap on the stock cams to make it worth the effort.

You can go with stock UCA's and your CV joints will be fine.

The 3.3 is a direct swap, just reuse the old intake, exhaust and other accessories. The fan shouldn't have any play to it, if it does (and leaks coolant while running) you're rapidly on the way to a destroyed waterpump and/or engine.

Running 91 octane in your Pathy won't do diddly squat but empty your wallet. Check all your plug wires, electrical connectors, vaccuum lines and perhaps change the fuel filter if it hasn't been done lately. It also may just be the fuel. Who knows?

AFAIK, Synchromesh is spendy stuff. I use regular GL-5 front and rear on mine.

There are probably 100 different gaskets on an engine that can leak oil. Ask the guy to be more specific.

One Audiobahn AWXS150 15" sub in a 4" ported bass tube right behind the back seats run by a Legacy "1000W" amp(yeah right, I had it tested out at about 690 watts total). I also stuck a spare crap-as$ 10" Rockford Punch woofer in there in an $8 box I got from Schucks. Hey, it works and they're not too heavy, entirely removeable just in case.

Besides that, if it leaked out and overheated your engine, you'd be looking for a new engine REAL quick...

True. My Pathy has 0% rust and no real problems other than what I've already done to it.

Check these out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...3&category=6783

I think you lost your alternator and water pump belt. Check that out ASAP.

Yes, but they'll rub. Please open your eyes and READ THE TEXT IN THESE POSTS.