88pathoffroad

No, it says "susp. lift". They're going by the Trailmaster lift kit cause that's the only one they know about.

Well, I DO have the latch, lock linkage and switch sitting in my garage...all I need is some time and a couple of wires.

I bet you got a pair of rear JGC springs instead of fronts. Rears are the same diameter, but about 3" shorter. You should've read up a bit more on the subject before cutting up brand new springs for nothing...

Um, no. Many, but not all. Mine doesn't.

Remove them, hose them off and scrub them down with engine degreaser, then use high-temp black spraypaint and give 'em a nice coat. They'll stay black for a while that way.

The only way to get to the cam seals is to take the t-belt off and then the cam sprockets, so yes, it's a good idea. Cam seals cost about $11 each. The old seals simply pry out and the new ones are tapped back in carefully. Cheap insurance against leaks later...

Count the coils. The right JGC springs are nine coils tall and have about .52"-.58" wire diameter. What was wrong with the springs you bought, anyway?

Yup. Same-same.

Use metric replacements if you're worried about keeping it all metric...otherwise, use whatever fits.

I'd unhook it if you want to salvage it. Let it go and it'll become a REAL expensive problem later if you want to keep your AC.

They largely don't do it anymore unless you know the guys that work there and they're willing to do you favors. It's quite a long time past the last of the 95 WD21 production dates, and they're simply not honoring the recall anymore. It's not profitable, ya know?

Before putting ANY MORE MILES ON IT, change the fluid and completely bypass the stock tranny cooler. Install an aftermarket tranny fluid cooler and hope it doesn't die on you...

It took me about one afternoon's worth of sunlight lazy-time to do my UCA's and rear springs. 'Course, I've done the rear springs about five times now...UCA's three times, etc...all in the name of progress, you know?

I vote for fluid level or dragging rear brakes.

You can't.

Dammn, man. Is it just me that's never had any problems removing nuts and bolts on my Pathy? That's just nuts.

Well, now you get to figure out which injector is leaking. You have 6. They run about $150 each IIRC. You won't need new lines unless they're really ragged or nasty.

That or re-bending the end coil with a torch and bar...

This has been discussed many times before. When they're unlocked, the wheels spin free and the driveline does not spin. You get slightly better gas mileage, yes. They're not that hard to install.

Is she single?

You can take 'em off one at a time. It's easiest to support the LCA with a jack, remove the wheel and go from there.

There are multiple things that can cause that. You need to either look into it more extensively or disregard the vehicle entirely.

If it's already tinted, tint it MORE. hehe.

Mostly the height. A 33 completely fills the fenderwell, front to back. The width will account for rubbing against the steering components and steering stop adjustment, as well as turning radius.

The "threaded nub" is your bleeder valve. Unscrew it. Should be 8mm.