88pathoffroad

Mmyep. 93-97 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8, nine coils tall, .54-.58 inch coil wire thickness.

Outputs to dual voice coil subs, yes, outputs to single voice coil subs, no. If you wire two amps to one SVC sub it'll short both amps out.

Did you have a question or what?

F all that. I'd get another Pathfinder.

Oh, OK. My bad. 93-up use the round tooth belt. Thanks.

Are you absolutely sure the old motor is unsalvageable? Did anyone even try pulling the plugs and cranking it, or are they telling you to spend mucho dinero just cause you don't know any better?

Use either a large diameter socket or a short piece of schedule 40 scrap pipe of the right diameter to lightly tap the seal in. They tap in pretty easily. Oil the seal well before installing it. Short of using either one of those methods, you can carefully use a small rubber or plastic mallet to tap the seals in by tapping around them in a circle until they go in evenly. Don't use a screwdriver or punch.

Only the 94-up VG30E engines use the round tooth belt, I believe.

Pull your spark plugs, then crank the motor over. If water comes out of any of the holes, you drowned it. If that's the case, crank it until no more water comes out any of the holes, then replace the plugs with new ones, change your oil REAL QUICK before it ruins your bearings inside the engine, and hope it runs again afterwards...

New shocks will have no affect on tire wear. They'll continue to wear that way until they're gone, most likely. Had an alignment lately?

Fuel filter clogged perhaps...

It's not likely, check all your electrical connectors at or near the distributor. Pull them all apart, tap any water out and re-connect them firmly. See if that gets you anywhere.

You can either use a v-belt pulley wrench in conjunction with a breaker bar and a large socket or stick a socket wrench on the crank bolt with a breaker bar braced against the frame(the engine runs clockwise, BTW), and nudge the starter with your key, that usually breaks the bolt loose for you. A two-jaw gear puller works allright for removing the balancer, but if it's a real tight fit and it doesn't want to come off, don't pull too hard on the two-jaw puller because it can pull the balancer apart, which would be a Bad Thing To Do.

I've heard that some of them aren't. *shrug* I never got into mine to see, so I don't know.

It should be around 43 psi...and follow the fuel line from the fuel filter to find your pressure regulator.

Your tire tread simply has a pattern that resonates at that speed, or something else on your vehicle is resonating at that speed. I doubt it's the hubs or a bearing, it'd be a more constant noise if that were the case.

It'll fit. Some people have a 33" spare on the stock rack.

A capacitor is a device capable of extremely fast voltage charge and discharge. It will dump everything inside it in a split second when the bass hits and then recharge for more.

If the lights turn off when you unplug the switch then the switch is the culprit, obviously. No idea on the erroneous plastic.

Yup, that's TDC and #1 as far as I can see. Hmmmmm

That and check the fan or fans.

Actually, yes. That sounds like what happens when you have a bad u-joint. Thing is, the u-joints on our Pathys rarely go out, and when they do, usually you have to replace the whole driveshaft ceuase the joints aren't removeable. I could be wrong, it's a topic I've never had to deal with.

I have a fairly craptacular battery box mounted in the rear and the CB up front along with switches crammed into any available space for all my lights...hehe

Yeah, remove the starter and wedge a screwdriver into the flywheel. It even says so in my Chilton's manual. You could also use the old trick of feeding/stuffing a thin length of soft cloth in through a spark plug hole until it fills up the cylinder and prevents the engine from turning over, then pulling the cloth out.

It's probably your blower motor resistor. I hear they tend to do that when the resistor dies.