88pathoffroad

UPDATE: I cleaned my MAF sensor with Q-tips and alcohol, used a propane torch to burn off the excess carbon on my O2 sensor, and on my last tank of gas, I got... 14.7 MPG. WOW! Holy crap, if I'd have known that simply cleaning a few things off would give me such great results, I'd have done it sooner! It also starts smoother, idles smoother, and has a teeny bit more power. Now there's a worthwhile bit of work!

The dammn thing weighs about 4000 lbs, what do you expect? And no, there's no big-brake upgrades. You can get slotted rotors and better brake pads, that's about it. I'd suggest that your friend drive a bit more carefully if he's hitting things with your vehicle...

There is no way to tell short of testing it yourself. You could order a Pathfinder with options or without them, there was never a real "all-in-one" "for-sure" "Off-Road" package. Some had LSD, some didn't. MOST SE's with rear discs have the LSD, but I've seen them without as well.

The tranny cooler may be clogged up. Try bypassing the stock cooler completely and installing an aftermarket external cooler. On another note, that sounds about right for shift points...these Nissan automatics are kinda funky things. If your reverse still works OK, it's probably not a line pressure problem. One of the shift solenoids may be sticking.

You're going to have to check the wiring itself, I think. From the end of the ECU plug to the end of the plug at the TPS, each wire should have 0 resistance when tested with a multimeter.

The adjustable suspension is stock, yes. To check if your rear diff has LSD, jack it up so both rear tires are off the ground, put it in neutral and spin one tire. If the other tire spins the opposite direction, no LSD. If they both spin the same way, you probably have LSD.

Nothing. The unlocked hub's axle will spin inside the hub and thge other tire won't spin at all. That's the beauty of an open differential...one tire fryer, one-wheel-peel, etc...

Installing the world's shortest sprinkler system?

Christ, I believe it. Dammn crooked shop employees.

I happen to have one of mine off at the moment, and.....*goes out to get it* ...yep. You got some long ones, man. Mine measure out to about 6.75" and 7.75". They're stamped "01 6065".

Take it to a dealership. There was a recall on seatbelt latches a while ago and they replaced mine free of charge because it's a safety issue.

Sheesh man, rebuilding a CV joint is child's play. All it is is steel and clips and grease and bearings.

It depends on the condition of the piping and your budget. If you can afford to have the affected exhaust pipe replaced, it's all good. Otherwise, do what you can with what you have.

A wideband O2 sensor and associated monitoring equipment used in the pre-cat placement will do the same thing for you, if I'm not mistaken. The post-cat sensors are only there for second-guess emissions equations.

SAW t-bars are OK, but they have a history of breaking if slightly damaged beforehand...the initial damage precipitates rust and cracking, then proceeds to a broken t-bar. Other than that, they're allright.

Yes, I put the stabilizer back on. It helps, particularly with 33" tires and steel wheels.

Sweet! Looks good! I want to see those installed!

The ECU usually won't give you error codes unless something emissions-related quits working. Running funny isn't really emissions related, even if it is annoying. Try a tune-up and thorough checking-over first.

Well, if normal front JGC springs give a Pathy 2-3" of lift, unmodified 3" JGC lift springs would give you 5-6" of lift in the rear...I'd think.

The original TC and flexplate were balanced as a unit at the factory, that's all. If you're replacing it, it shouldn't really matter. I wouldn't worry about it.

As soon as I win the lottery, yeah. Until then, I'll just be rebuilding stock IFS parts and trying to make them better. Junkyard axle: $10 New boot kits with grease and clamps: $24 Rebuilding the axle myself for $34: Priceless.

10-12 tops, everywhere. More like 4-6 at the sand dunes and while offroading.

Had to take the DS front axle out of the Pathy today...the inner boot came off completely and spewed grease on everything. So THAT'S what happens when you overextend a C/V joint and keep wheeling on it. Ow. The inner cup contact surfaces are all galled and beat up from the tripod joint hitting it at full extension. The axle itself has beat marks as well, but not that bad. Time for a C/V axle rebuild!

I believe they're stamped on the end.

They're double-walled. It won't hurt to run them. My fronts have some nasty dents in them and they work fine.