88pathoffroad

Oh, I bet you can find a tee-adapter that you can use with a couple different ends to make it work without too many problems.

Check the diff fluid first...it should have been changed at least once by now anyway.

That's the cutout for the e-brake on a hardbody pickup. If you get all the parts from a HB, you might be able to make it work, but I don't know all the intricacies of such a project by any means. I doubt it'd be cheap and simple, if that's what you're asking.

Ok, enough of the diss-on-whoever-doesn't-agree-with-you talk. Back on topic, please. I highly reccommend the L&P steering, it works very well and is very well built. They've all but fixed the past problems, and people that order parts from them are getting them in a timely fashion now. The L&P steering also costs a lot less than the Calmini setup...but the Calmini setup is a complete system that replaces everything but the steering box. You get to decide what you want (and can afford) on that topic. On the tie rods, MOOG makes decent parts, but regular no-name brands are also acceptable, from what I've been through and seen. An idler arm brace would be a good idea. You don't need to replace yours unless the pin is bent or the arm is twisted. You can buy replacement bushings for it from a Nissan dealership for like $7.50 a pair if those are worn out. Oh, and the MOOG idler arm is a different design than a stock one, so you can't use an idler arm brace if you buy a MOOG idler arm. They're not any stronger, anyway.

1. Your headlight switch needs to be cleaned or replaced. 2. I bet one of the sending unit wires isn't hooked up properly. 3. Could be a bad seal on top of the gas tank, from when they replaced it, OR one of the fuel feed, return or vent lines could be rusted through and/or they accidentally damaged one of them while installing the pump. 4. If you like the adjustable feature and the shocks work OK for you, go with stock replacements. If you want heavier-duty, stiffer shocks for off-road use, get aftermarket replacements by Rancho, Pro-Comp, Bilstein, KYB or Monroe.

Yup. Exhaust leak.

Yes, they're stackable, but the AC lift sucks. I've owned a set of the AC UCA's. The UCA's don't fit right, look terrible(someone evidently spraypaints them with Hammerite while they're still dirty), and they do NOT correct balljoint angles like they say. I'd go with Superlift UCA's instead, that's what I have and they work great.

Here's a pic of the near-finished panhard rod drop bracket. I used what I had on hand, so the front and back are two layers of 16 gauge steel welded together along all seams with one piece at the rear separating the sides. I decided to go with a bolt-on part as opposed to a weld-on part, mostly because trying to weld underneath a dirty truck is a real pain in the hiney. Next come the bolt holes (3 of them) and finishing the surface of the steel with a flap-disc, then paint and bolting it on with new Grade 8 bolts.

Mmyup. Like I said a minute ago. Heh.

Like I said in another post by the same person, I bet you money up front that it's the power transistor for the coil. Mine did the exact same thing when it went out on me.

In Oregon by law you can't pump your own gas either. I think it's a crock of crap. I can drive to California, Washington or Idaho and pump my own gas all day long, or use a fleet card to pump my own gas at a commercial fueling station, but not at any other pump in Oregon? Prices are going up no matter who pumps the dammn gas.

Technically speaking, they'll fit with a 3" body lift alone, but they'll rub the crap out of the fenders. Trim away, my man!

Yesterday I removed my rear axle lower control arms and the panhard rod...I'm going to weld 1/2" angle iron onto the bottom sides of the control arms for strength and general sliding purposes(ala Datz510), and the panhard rod is going to be fitted with a 3" drop bracket on the frame end(ditto). I figure what I'll do is smooth the frame mount, box it with 1/8" plate and just plain weld it to the existing frame mount, drill new holes, space the insides out with washers and use a Grade 8 9/16" bolt to put it back together with. Should be cool when I'm done with it. I'll post pics later, maybe tomorrow if I get the chance. Later.....time passes Today! So...1/2" angle iron is too small. I used 3/4" instead. Works great. A three foot stick of it cut in half works perfectly. Cost me $5.38 at Lowe's. The hardest part about working on these parts was wire-wheeling the old stock black powdercoat and my white paint off. Took me darn near an hour and a half just to do that. Just have to wash them off and then it's primer and paint time! I didn't have the chance to mess with my panhard rod bracket today. Ah well, with luck I'll get it done tomorrow.

They don't fit right, the build quality sucks, and they do NOT correct the balljoint angles like they say they do. Compare 'em to your stock arms, you'll see.

It's directly above the oil filter screwed into the block, and I believe it has fine threads, so no on the NPT question.

The rear ones are different as far as I know. Sorry.

Gajah Tunggal tires are cheapies, no big deal, never heard anything bad about them. I couldn't find a pic of those tires on that webpage, but hey, whatever.

You'd need to take apart both the rear brakes to get the ends of the cables installed properly, but it's not all that hard. A few hand tools and some time are all that's needed.

Nope, there's no way to adjust the rear wheel alignment. It's a solid axle.

Vehicles not equipped with the adjustable shocks would of course not have the switch installed.

21 is Ignition Signal, which means that your power transistor has probably gone out on you. The symptoms all point to the power transistor as well. It's a rectangular box mounted on the side of the coil's mounting bracket with wires coming into the transistor and going out to the coil. They run about $110 at most parts stores.

Yeah...bolts that size are cheap and generally not that hard to find. $45 for one bolt is a complete rip-off.

What salt? We barely ever get snow in the first place.

Diesel's up to $2.69 a gallon in some places here. Gas is about $2.20.

You won't need anything for the transmission, it's fine as-is. The kit should come with everything you need, including instructions. Check this webpage out for some more complete instructions: http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html