88pathoffroad

Most of the door wiring ends in harness connectors inside the steering column, actually. You'd be doing a lot of digging to unplug everything if you have power windows, etc. The hinges need to be unbolted, pulling the hinge pin isn't such a hot idea on these doors.

Alignment also.

Energy Suspension and Daystar both make tension rod bushings(same thing, different name).

Match transmissions. That way the gears match. Autos have 4.625's, manuals have 4.375's.

Lookin good! Now just use some Purple Power degreaser and pressure wash your frame so it doesn't stand out so much.

You can simply unplug the exhaust temp sensor, it won't throw any codes unplugged. Instead of removing the EGR valve completely, you could try using a piece of 18-22 gauge sheetmetal as a spacer/block-off plate to cut it off completely and leave it bolted on. Then you don't have to worry about getting rid of the EGR lines, blocking off exhaust manifold holes, etc. Simply sandwich the sheetmetal between the EGR valve and the intake with some high-temp RTV silicone and bolt 'er up. That's what I did on mine. Make sure you block off your EGR vaccuum lines, etc if you do that.

From what I understand, CF clutches work better if they get wet. Good point...they're also really really burly and will take some abuse before glazing over or wearing out totally.

I looked through my FSM again...there should be a wire that's white with blue stripe, and a black wire. That'd be your main 12VDC power wire and ground wire. The sending unit wire is a mystery so far, they don't list it in the generic wiring diagrams. How many wires have you got to reconnect? List the colors, etc, please.

No, you need a three-wire heated O2 sensor, not a single-wire. Whoever listed that auction is a dumbarse.

Diesel engines don't have o2 sensors, no. Mine came loose with a regular wrench, but it's a PITA to get your hands in there.

Mine looked just like that before I replaced 'em. Good call.

Aww, and here I thought we were gonna see a turbo hooked up under the hood.

Those are for the safety loop, yep. I just took mine off, period. I don't think it'll matter all that much in the case of a very slightly modified Pathfinder with a stock engine.

Yeah, it will.

LOL! Here's a direct link. http://forum.mjpd.com/files/blaupunkt_pimp...rid_422b9_1.mpg

Just use new speakers, they're close enough to work allright.

Dude, if it doesn't work, it doesn't work. Someone may have pulled the fuse for it or clipped the wires. You're going to have to remove your driver's side seat and get in there to see for yourself.

I'd estimate at least $500, maybe $600. The headers are $289 or so, a new cat would be around $75 and the rest is all hand work, fab work and welding. Just make it simple, tell 'em to do it so it's easier for them and maybe you'll get a break on the rest, who knows? Then there's also the matter of broken exhaust studs...if you have some, that might increase the cost by a good bit.

Same thing. Either your lock actuator is getting weak on that side or the linkage needs attention. Open up your door panel and eyeball it to see.

If you have an auto transmission, the shifter needs no modifications. The transfer case shifter will sink down into the floor, though. You'll either need to bend the t-case shifter or weld on an extension to make it shift properly after the body lift. You won't be able to put it into 4LO unless it's been modified.

Your best bet is to leave the tire carrier on and not worry about removing it. Finding a place to stick the spare is a PITA, if you put it on the roof, then you have to manhandle a 50 lb tire/wheel off the roof if you get a flat...there's no place to put it underneath, and the stock carrier for the inside will only fit up to a 31" tire.

http://www.nissanpartspro.com/ Other than that, the dealership or junkyard. That's about it.

Ew, that sucks. Tried adding a friction modifier additive? Like...Lucas No-Slip Auto Transmission Additive or something.

It could, a clogged cat would back up exhaust and make the O2 sensor read rich, which could make the ECU think you have a leaking injector making it run rich instead...

Thanks. I'll definitely let you all know how they work out. From what I've heard, the LTB's are real soft so they wear out fast, but hey, I'll trade treadwear for traction anyday. Heh. Next job: Heim joint tie rods. Stock tie rods aren't strong enough to cope with even mild off-roading on 33's, I swear.