88pathoffroad

I've never seen one, and I mean NEVER. Heh. Tint the glass?

It doesn't matter, the fluid will flow through a cooler in either direction. Just hook it up and make sure everything's tight.

Don't take off the fender flares, just trim them. It's not that hard to figure out, and Pathfinders without flares look all flat anyway.

Technically speaking, the shocks work the same, but I don't think Tenneco makes the shocks for Calmini. I could be wrong. *shrug* Mudfinder: L&P centerlink and idler arm brace, and there is no way to lift only the front end without cranking the t-bars unless you swap in a solid axle. A 2" body lift isn't that bad, take another look at them. HB pickups have a stock 1.5" body lift already, go eyeball a 4x4 HB sometime.

Either cut them out and weld in new metal, or use POR-15 to re-coat the rusty spots. Either way, you're going to have to wire-wheel or sand a lot of rust off. Phosphoric acid also works on areas you can't physically reach to sand or wire-wheel. It's available at a hardware store as a rust remover/dissolver. Beware, that acid is nasty stuff, makes steel look like etched glass after a while.

1. At least a full weekend, depending on what tools you have on hand. 2. Broken-off studs are a REAL PITA to remove in the first place. Rusted-together heat shield bolts/nuts are also a problem. 3. It's a REAL tight fit if you don't have a body lift...remove the gap guards under the fenderwells and the tires for better access, use a pressure washer to get everything clean first. Douse each bolt in PB Blaster or penetrating oil before attempting to remove anything.

Stick a single backup light on it in the middle, that'd help.

Hahaha, "might" my butt. You'll have to whack sheetmetal out of all four fenderwells to fit 33x12.5's on with only a 3" suspension lift. You'd be rubbing like mad around every corner, no matter how slight. The fenders would be tweaked in no time flat. Your stock steering would also probably die pretty quickly, even with just on-road use. My 33x10.5's (on 15x8" wheels) rubbed horribly all the time before I trimmed the front fenders all the way back to the firewall and the rears on the outer edges...and that's with the 3" body lift AND the 3" suspension lift. The fender flares on mine have been cut down considerably and the stock plastic inner fender liners as well. The basic rule is, (not to coin a phrase) 3+3=33. You need at least 5-6" of lift to get 33's to clear your fenders reliably. That rule applies even more so with wider tires. Add a steering stabilizer to your list if you don't already have one.

The panhard rod locates and stabilizes the rear axle on the lateral(side-to-side) plane. It keeps the axle from moving side-to-side. Your Pathy must have been backed up into something or hit from behind to do that to it. A straight panhard rod shouldn't run more than like $20 if you can find one that's still straight(and a junkyard that isn't crooked). I can get one from a local yard if you can't find one for cheaper...USPS has a Priority Mail box that I think it'll fit into.

I found one recently. Want it? Let me know. It's the E-AT switch.

If you remove the distributor, plug it in and spin the base gear(ignition on), you should be able to hear the injectors clicking as it triggers them...

Check the wiring harnesses for the ECU. Perhaps something came loose all on it's own and that's all it affects.

Verify that the fuel pump is actually working. Pull the top hose off the fuel rail and either attach a long hose or use a small catch-can to put the existing hose in. Turn on the key, you should get fuel at a rather fast rate if the pump's working right. Watch out for spray.

It's the exact same thing. Works great. I just wish someone would make one for the front diff in the US!

Turbo diesel 2.7L, 2663 actual cubic centimeter displacement, RE4R019 automatic transmission, and H233B rear axle with 4.625 gearing. There you go.

The code you would be looking for under the hood would be HG##, the number being the gear ratio of your axles. The HG bit designates it as a H233B diff.

Will it run if you shoot starting fluid into the intake?

88 How much front end lift did you get from those superlift arms? I have a set of AC UCAs up front but got less than 2in instead of the 3in promised. im thinking of swapping. 3" easy. If you compare AC's UCA's and the Superlift UCA's side by side, you'll see a BIG difference in balljoint mount angles and overall fit and finish.

Like what? Look man, it does it's job. If you don't want it to work that way, either don't install one or don't drive your Pathfinder on the freeway and then complain about the way it works. This is not a simple pair of new fog lights or new tires, it's a hardcore off-road mod that is meant only for helping you when off-road. You have to take the good with the bad, as interpreted by yourself. Oilman: replacing your hubs does not lock the front diff. Hubs have nothing to do with the way the differential works.

Put 200 lbs worth of sandbags in the cargo area.

Nope, this one is for the WD21 Pathfinders with the RE4R01A auto only, as far as I know.

The tire pressure listed on the side of the tire is it's maximum capacity, not it's reccommended running pressure. Go by the doorjam sticker, or whatever makes you happy.

I know. I just don't know what the precise length and size of the new bolts should be. If I knew, I'd post the dammn info and everyone would be putting on body lifts! MrPickles or statikuz: Pull one of those bolts real quick for us and measure them!

That's rust from the cast iron master cylinder. Water in the fluid causes rust, which makes the fluid turn brown. Dry fluid doesn't cause rust.

Holy crap, man. That's the FIRST TIME I've ever seen any company offer a Lock-Right style locker for the Nissan front diff. I'm gonna ask for more info on that. I've been wanting a front locker for a while now, been looking at getting a 300ZX LSD instead, but those things are like gold...rare and expensive.