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M in KC

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About M in KC

  • Birthday 12/25/1966

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '91 SE K&N can, Pacesetter Pipes, 50 Series Flowmaster and Westin Rails.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Year
    1992

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kansas City, MO
  • Interests
    my '91 finder, Kawaski Triple Motorcyles, recreational fire arms, upland hunting, water skiing, off shore fishing, and an occasional adult beverage. Cheers!

M in KC's Achievements

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  1. Consider visibly checking it in a dark area or garage with the platic cover removed. If it is arching externally it should light up like a Christmas tree.
  2. M in KC

    Fuel Filter

    I'll use two pair of forscips one on the inlet and one one the discharge fuel line to minimize fuel spillage. Before this I would jam a golf tee in one line while I was fitting the other to the new filter.
  3. I'd think you could buff that out and be GTG. LOL. Another good example of not accepting defeat. Good for you.
  4. About 2 gallons on my '91. Pretty consistant over the years, where as my fuel gauge is a little whacked as of late. I just use the trip meters as a backup.
  5. 300K, dude you are my idol. I love it! I'm a few behind you at 215.
  6. Shouldn't take too much effort. Drive your 'grinder around to warm up the fluid, shut it off, set P-Brake chock wheels, 1/2" ratchet or better yet 1/2" breaker bar. Depending on how many Wheaties you ate that morning you may need a cheater pipe on the rachet or breaker bar to get the plugs broke loose. Lefty losie, righty tightie. Make sure you can remove or at least verify you can remove the fill plug before you drain the pumkin. It would be a bad day if you drain it but couldn't refill. My notes from doing my '91 were 2.8 liters for an LSD. Drain plug torque specs as Chilton's report them are 43-72 ft. lbs on the H190A and H223B; or 29-43 ft. lbs on the C200. Chilton's also reports 5.9 pints of fluid for the rear and 3.1 if you have a 4WD. I didn't do the conversion from liters to pints but these volumes ought to get you close. No need to over fill you just need the lube up to the bottom of the fill opening as checked with your finger in the hole. Gear oil is stankie! Non-LSDs API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, LSD's Nissan Approved LSD lube. I'll be darned if I can find the API GL rating for the LSDs. Somebody else will surely throw that up if you need it.
  7. If its like my '91 the sensor is on the drive shaft by the rear diff. You might have a bad one there. Make sure your MC is topped off first though.
  8. I'm going adamzan's route tommorow. After 200+K miles the original bits are all used up. I grabbed the left front a couple of weeks ago and thought the whole knuckle assemble was going to come off after replacing the caliper. It's just getting to under-responsive and crazy to drive on the road. But I will have a minty fresh front end by Saturday.
  9. I had nearly the same issue on my '91. Motor was fine just no/little fluid to the rear glass. My problem turned out to be a ton of sediment in the nozzle. On the '91's anyway th nozzle is just held in the rear hatch with a prawl on the nozzle's base AIRC. A small flat bladed screwdriver or putty knife GENTLY, worked under the nozzle base's grommet will release the prawl and nozzle assembly. From there you can flush out the nozzle if that is your issue and reinstall. Mine wees like a Russian race horse now. Good luck.
  10. GG, you are right the auto control are individual push button. All of those individual lights work it's I guess what you would call the background light the one that lights up the temp selector slider etc that is flakey on mine. You are also correct in the fact that you really do not need to pull the vents. After you been in there once you realize that extra effort doesn't gain you much for this repair. Indigent, thanks for the P/N's I'll take a look at them and see if I can get it sorted from there.
  11. AC, you are right auto fan and yes it is a nice feature. Kingman, I remember going through all the disassembly steps you outlined but I'll be monkey's uncle if I seen what I believed to be a light I had the whole flippin' control panel out of the dash looking for it. I guess when it warms up I give it another go. Its a balmly -6 here this morning. You gotta love the four seasons States.
  12. See if you can line it up on here. I'd hate to give the wrong p/n based on your loaction. http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/genuine-nissan-parts/axle-suspension/400-front-axle/-c-5572_5573_5668_5669.html
  13. AC, our pathgrinders seem to be suffering from the same nagging issues. I have the same question and issue as you do regarding your hvac light(s). Although mine will occasionally, tease me and come on and then go off. I don't think mine is a bulb as much as its a connection. And I'll be darned if I couldn't figure it out this summer when I attempted to fix it. I ended up breaking more of the brittle plastic dash parts and just gave up.
  14. MrJim always great to see you on your forum. Warmest wishes for a speedy recovery as well. We got the snow last night. Only one vehicle off the road this mroning on the way into work and there wasn't anyone around the vehicle so I just came on in. No doubt others will suffer the same fate through tomorrow. I've got some fresh rubber that I wanted to try out on the snow so I guess I'll get to evaluate my latest purchase.
  15. Sounds like they sold you the wrong bearings as they should fit on the spindle with little to no effort. I'm guessing you at least eyballed up the old and new berings along side each other if you didn't have a caliper to measure and compare. Any chance of identifying the bearing numbers etched on the bearings as another form of quick check. They could of put the wrong bearing in the right bearing box number.
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