M in KC

Consider visibly checking it in a dark area or garage with the platic cover removed. If it is arching externally it should light up like a Christmas tree.

I'll use two pair of forscips one on the inlet and one one the discharge fuel line to minimize fuel spillage. Before this I would jam a golf tee in one line while I was fitting the other to the new filter.

I'd think you could buff that out and be GTG. LOL. Another good example of not accepting defeat. Good for you.

About 2 gallons on my '91. Pretty consistant over the years, where as my fuel gauge is a little whacked as of late. I just use the trip meters as a backup.

300K, dude you are my idol. I love it! I'm a few behind you at 215.

Shouldn't take too much effort. Drive your 'grinder around to warm up the fluid, shut it off, set P-Brake chock wheels, 1/2" ratchet or better yet 1/2" breaker bar. Depending on how many Wheaties you ate that morning you may need a cheater pipe on the rachet or breaker bar to get the plugs broke loose. Lefty losie, righty tightie. Make sure you can remove or at least verify you can remove the fill plug before you drain the pumkin. It would be a bad day if you drain it but couldn't refill. My notes from doing my '91 were 2.8 liters for an LSD. Drain plug torque specs as Chilton's report them are 43-72 ft. lbs on the H190A and H223B; or 29-43 ft. lbs on the C200. Chilton's also reports 5.9 pints of fluid for the rear and 3.1 if you have a 4WD. I didn't do the conversion from liters to pints but these volumes ought to get you close. No need to over fill you just need the lube up to the bottom of the fill opening as checked with your finger in the hole. Gear oil is stankie! Non-LSDs API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, LSD's Nissan Approved LSD lube. I'll be darned if I can find the API GL rating for the LSDs. Somebody else will surely throw that up if you need it.

If its like my '91 the sensor is on the drive shaft by the rear diff. You might have a bad one there. Make sure your MC is topped off first though.

I'm going adamzan's route tommorow. After 200+K miles the original bits are all used up. I grabbed the left front a couple of weeks ago and thought the whole knuckle assemble was going to come off after replacing the caliper. It's just getting to under-responsive and crazy to drive on the road. But I will have a minty fresh front end by Saturday.

I had nearly the same issue on my '91. Motor was fine just no/little fluid to the rear glass. My problem turned out to be a ton of sediment in the nozzle. On the '91's anyway th nozzle is just held in the rear hatch with a prawl on the nozzle's base AIRC. A small flat bladed screwdriver or putty knife GENTLY, worked under the nozzle base's grommet will release the prawl and nozzle assembly. From there you can flush out the nozzle if that is your issue and reinstall. Mine wees like a Russian race horse now. Good luck.

GG, you are right the auto control are individual push button. All of those individual lights work it's I guess what you would call the background light the one that lights up the temp selector slider etc that is flakey on mine. You are also correct in the fact that you really do not need to pull the vents. After you been in there once you realize that extra effort doesn't gain you much for this repair. Indigent, thanks for the P/N's I'll take a look at them and see if I can get it sorted from there.

AC, you are right auto fan and yes it is a nice feature. Kingman, I remember going through all the disassembly steps you outlined but I'll be monkey's uncle if I seen what I believed to be a light I had the whole flippin' control panel out of the dash looking for it. I guess when it warms up I give it another go. Its a balmly -6 here this morning. You gotta love the four seasons States.

See if you can line it up on here. I'd hate to give the wrong p/n based on your loaction. http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/genuine-nissan-parts/axle-suspension/400-front-axle/-c-5572_5573_5668_5669.html

AC, our pathgrinders seem to be suffering from the same nagging issues. I have the same question and issue as you do regarding your hvac light(s). Although mine will occasionally, tease me and come on and then go off. I don't think mine is a bulb as much as its a connection. And I'll be darned if I couldn't figure it out this summer when I attempted to fix it. I ended up breaking more of the brittle plastic dash parts and just gave up.

MrJim always great to see you on your forum. Warmest wishes for a speedy recovery as well. We got the snow last night. Only one vehicle off the road this mroning on the way into work and there wasn't anyone around the vehicle so I just came on in. No doubt others will suffer the same fate through tomorrow. I've got some fresh rubber that I wanted to try out on the snow so I guess I'll get to evaluate my latest purchase.

Sounds like they sold you the wrong bearings as they should fit on the spindle with little to no effort. I'm guessing you at least eyballed up the old and new berings along side each other if you didn't have a caliper to measure and compare. Any chance of identifying the bearing numbers etched on the bearings as another form of quick check. They could of put the wrong bearing in the right bearing box number.

AC, did you get your fogs sorted? As I suspected my issue again was an open ground. This go round I took a little more time to diagnois what was going on. My lamp would work dandling from the wires but once I would mount it in the housing it would go out. Then at one point I nearly melted the bulb retainer to the fixture because the ground was so terrible. After a 1/2 an hour of playing around with it I discovered the positive lead, once the lamnp was fitted back in to the fixture it would disrupt the ground and no light. So after finagling the wires around a bit inside the housing all is well.

AC I wouldn't think one ground's failure would impact the other light from working at least that is not the case on my factory wired '91. Good advice to start probing around with a VOM to see what you have. That is the same route I took to identify my issue. And a Harbor Freight VOM will be plenty good for what your are needing it for here. My only advise there is to determine what size fuse will be protecting your VOM and have a couple of those as spares. Noting more frustrating that "pegging" your meter because you have the function set incorrectly and no replaemment fuses on hand. No need to ask how I know this.

I don't know about the '95s stock fog lights but my stock '91s have been problematic in recent years at the fixture's ground. As a matter of fact I have one not functioning currently that I have to tend to. My issues have been electorlysis (sp?) related. This go round I think I will try and solder the ground wire onto the fixture's ground post. If you haven't I would condiser pulling your fog light fixtures and examining for corrosion and other defects. Kingman has sound advise as well for the switch.

Sitting on 18 years. Mine's only a '91 so that's about as good as I can get. Unbelieveably reliable vehicle for its age and mileage. I just fitted my forth set of new tires and third set of shocks over the past couple of weeks. At this pace the body and frame are going to expire before the drivetrain. That my friends will be a sad day. Another t-belt, water pump etc, etc, service will be due in 12-15,000 miles. Mine is my daily driver it has only left met stranded two times (starter in a perfectly flat parking lot, and a snapped compression rod). Wilson I have you by about 2 or 3,000 miles currently. The longevity of these vehicles is impressive. A few words of advice for those realtively new into their pathgrinder relationships, follow the recommend service intervals and watch out for the common issues specific to these vehicles on this board. These guys and gals know their game when it comes to the Pathfinders. Love the new board!

http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-pa..._5611_5615.html The part number in this fishce is 25020. It about a 30 minute job at most.

An inspiring classic example for those that keep putting it off.

I will easily get 50,000 miles out of a set of Uniroyal Laredos, in the 31-10.5-15's, consistantly acheiving 18-20 mpg. I won't necessarily rate them superior for snow but they have made it through several midwestern snow events. They are aboyut $100 a hoop at big box stores, add the $12-15 mount and balance and tax and you are going to easily be in that $500 range for 4 tires.

Stuck/frozen caliper pistons are usually attributed to build up of brake dust and other debris around the piston and pistons seal or a failed seal due to heat cycles, and general oxidation of the rubber seal. Eventaully a small amount of water/moisture finds its way in and bingo... piston stuckie. I had the same issue two weeks ago. What should I have expected for 197K miles. Turned out to be a frozen piston on my right front wheel. But before I was able to properly diagnois it I had lost my pads and rotor. The raw metal rubbing was the indicator that something was a miss with the brakes. I thought it was just time for new pads. Wishful thinking on my part as I never get out on the cheap or easy. Pretty easy to see in hind sight but I didn't find the frozen piston until reassemble. Man was I furious. Squeezed for all I was worth with my c- clamp and that piston would not budge. Nearest parts house is an hour away provided they have what you need on the shelf. So a couple hour job turned into two days. aaargh ... all better now though.

No gloves here either. Owners manual, warranty receipts, spare fues, spare lug nuts, flash light, six in one screwdriver, sun roof visor cover. There just isn't a whole lot of room in the WD21's.

I replaced my ash tray with twin cup/beverage holder. Prior to that it was my change holder. Now the left side is my beverage/drink holder and right side is my coin holder. Missed the Wwhat's in your glove box thread.