M in KC

Slick, did you see any mpg gains or losses with your headers? You're probably making more hp but dropped some torque with your header-flow master combo. Correct? My Pacesetter-flowmaster combo made a noticable change in hp and a drop in torque. My milage did pick back up to 19-20 from 17-18 range. Granted tires, driving habits and a multitude of other things play into fuel economy. I'm just curious on the performance differences between the header manufacturers all else being equal. Thanks Mike

Next time you recharge the system put some dye in the refrig oil. This is the acid test for a fugitive freon leak(s). The stuff I used last was a chartrouse color. sly Mike

Darn, 88 is gooooooooooooooooooooooooood!

Broken exhaust studs in these engines are a _ _ _ _ _. It can be done. I did one on mine when I did the header install. Soak the stud as best you can with the penetrating oil of your choice. Kroil, PB Blaster and Deep Creep are good choices. I'm sure others wil chime in with their favorite weapon of choice. Anyway as the Precise1 said the start is mission critical. If you slide the drill bit off the stud and into the water jacket you are toast. Start with a good center punch and cup out the stud if you can with a rotary tool (e.g. dremel etc.) From there it's slow and steady that gets the prize. Depending upon which stud is broke off this may be a two person job. My bro and I had to do mine. One below with variable speed right angle drill and a titanium left twist bit and one person on top holding the drill head and a small spotting mirror. Slow, slow, slow. Once you get a pilot hole started stop before you go too deep. Measure and mark your drill bit a lenght short of what is left of your stud. Don't drill to China! From there it's a screw extractor if the drill bit hasn't backed the stud out. I would suggest a handfull of drill bits you'll probably break a few. Good luck if you decide to do it. Mike

I would think so. Although they're liable to give you the standard disclaimer. The hi-temp copper is good stuff as well but you'll still have to split the joint. Head for the sawsall and either a gasket from the parts house or a tube of copper and some nuts, bolts and washers. Wear some eye protection if you choose to do it. There is going to be a lot of junk falling while your working on it. Eyes the pair without a spare. Mike

'91 SE V6, MT, 31x10.5x15. I consistently get 18-20 with mixed driving. Very little offroad. This is my daily driver. I just rolled 145K on the clock. When I tow my boat (20' fiber. I/O bowrider) I see about 15. Oh and 88 I love to rrrrrroast the tires in the rain as well. Hey somebody had to use the break dancin' stick boy. And yes he/she dances better two dimensionally than I do three dimensionally. Mike

RainX on a rag will take the wax out of your plastic fender flairs and top of your bumpers. I've been using it on my '91 for years. No damage yet. Mike

I've got a K&N in my '91 SE. It's been in there since my 'finder was new in '91. Well not literally. Routine service when the mileage drops off. You'll still have service with a cold air intake system. Like Slick sez, it's all in what squeels your wheels. As far as performance enhancements I'm not sure you will "feel" anything different maybe a little quicker throttle response. These motors like any other are an air pump. You can only get so much in and consequently so much out. As far as sound goes with a K&N it is negligable since you will be using the stock airbox. If you go the K&N route keep your old paper element (assuming it's not cannon foder) for in between services while the gauze dries out prior to re-oiling. Mike

Chromotech, I hope your Pacesetter install goes more smoothly than mine. I swear they set me the wrong headers from my application. EGR bung was wrong, the #6 down tube had to be "dented to clear the bell housing so it wouldn't act like a heat sink and trash the rear main seal. And I continue to struggle with exhaust leaks and the slip joints. Argh! I know welding those joint will solve that problem but I'm due for a clutch in the near future. Oh and their tech support is marginal at best. JMTC Mike

I'm thinking the O2 sensor on my '91 'finder with a V6 was a three wire lead. If I'm not mistaken the O2 sensors in this generation motor are heated. My O2 sensor when I replaced it last year was like $125 buckaroos. I don't know that this will solve your check engine light issue but your connection is a total hack job. :o Make those "factory trained" monkeys do the job right the first time. You don't want to get me started on my Toyota dealer's abilites or lack there of. :furious: Mine Toyota dealer's misdoings were at least on a Toyota to start with, brand new Toyota not to mention but a Toyota none the less. JMTC Mike

Skip the cut/drop out pipe unless you can afford some serious noise cancelling hearing protection. Don't ask me how I know this. And as 88 said no performacne improvement either. These are simple 3.0 liter air pumps you can only twist them up so far before you reach the point of diminishing returns. Al Coholic says "I think I'll have a drink to that." Cheers Mr. Pickles and Nostrovia to the rest of you! -alcohol- Mike

"Sport/Touring" as well on my '91 SE and yes I could tell the difference between settings even with 140k+ miles on them. I wacked my connectors off in the same spot for the same reason as HP when I finally got around to changing mine. Mike

Pat, if you choose to get the fluid changed, I suggest you should, don't get to alarmed if the tranny whines a little with the new fluid in it. When I did my '97 Max at about 100K mi. it whinned for a couple of weeks and then went away. No tranny problems before or after the change and I'm on the long side of 143K mi. now. :bow: Darn Nissan makes some reliable vehicles. JMTC Mike

See the sticky in the Garage forum under common Pathfinder problems and the fixes. My '91 with powerlocks has done this same thing. I haven't replaced anything yet as per the "fix" listed. My ghost in the machine has been too sporatic to properly diagnois until I found this board. Mike

I'm a storng Nissan fan but I did stray from the fold and bought a Toy Sequoia. About the same as the Land Cruiser just not as many whistles and bells. Mike

Roger That Guys! I figured a topic like this might invite a feeding frenzie. Mike

Dang Pat, I can tell you the '91 are unique to themselves. They mounded under the front bumper. "92-? mounted behind the lower front bumper. '92- are a much better design in my opinion. They are less prone to be torn off or damaged when chasing deer through the corn fields during huntin' season. Don't ask me how I know. You won't happen to have an extra lense for a '91 would ya? Mike

Pat, check your tires for cupping or chipping. If you're running around on 143k+ shockers your tires are dribbling down the road like basketballs on sticks. I know mine were, at 144k+ miles on my shocks. LOL. Check the tire balance as well sometime the tire monkeys don't get the weights on good and they come off and can contribute to the same symptions your describing. JMO Mike

I'm very happy with my new Monroe Sensa-Tracs. I have similar driving conditions. The Show-Me States' roads rank amoung the nation's worst. I did all four for less than $125. You're on the money regarding OEM shocks they are stupid expensive. JMTC Mike

Has anybody done any R&D on these alleged "lighting in a bottle" devices? The ones I'm talking about appear all the time on evilbay for next to nothing. Do they work? Do some work better than others? Or is it another one of those things on the long list of things that "if it sounds to good to be true it probably isn't"? Thanks in advance. Mike

I just did front and rears on my '91 last weekend. As I recall the '91s had the standard shocks and the Sport/Power package which utilized an electronic ride controlled shocks that would be either in a "touring" soft ride, or "sport" firm ride. Mine did not have a self leveling feature but did have the electronicly controlled shocks. And after 144K+ they were shot. Who would of thunk it??? OEM eplacements were not going to happen on mine too much denario. Since I don't do alot of off-roading I fitted new Monroe Sensa-tracs on front and rear. I like them alot, firm but not super rigid. I guess it all depends on your application. Total replacement time was about 3 hours for all four. I consider myself mechanically inclined but I don't get many opportunities to sharpen my skills, not that replacing shocks is brain surgery. A can of PB Blaster, and impact gun,an air ratchet, a two foot pry bar and torque wrench and your good to go. Mike