M in KC

Thanks Tacoman. I'm running Pacesetters. I'll post once I get it regardless of if it solves my fugitive noise or not so that others can be in the know. Mike

Oh and another thing my '91 with a M/T I had to dent, yes dent or deform the the down tube (pass. side) past the bell housing since it was soo close to it . I was afraid of heat sinking the bell houseing and trashing a bearing. The EGR comes completely out. To reassembble mine, I cut the tube and used high temp hose and a couple of hose clamps to make the circuit complete. Careful bending that tube it's probably old and brittle. I don't know what you have for hearder gaskets but the trash that came with mine are in file 13. Get some good Fel-Pro or equilvant exhaust gaskets. Mine were gray graphite colored and I think they were Fel-Pros. You don't what to be going back in to swap out header gaskets now do ya? And like tacoman sez don't trash the intermediate tube if it's in good shape. Tacoman throwup the part number for the trick stainless clamp. That noise is extremely irritating. I don't want to weld the slip joint for I fear a clutch job isn't too far around the corner. I'll roll 150K by friday. Mike

T-Belt, belts and tensioner at 60k, water pump, t-belt, belts and tensioner at 120K (missed the darn t-stat though). For some reason when these items fail it's never in my driveway. Hence I change them before they break or at least that's my goal. Fluids at recommended intervals, tire rotation every other oil change. K&N service as necessary for driving conditions, plugs 30 or 40ish. I'm a tight arse who just barely know which end of the hammer to hold on to when swinging. I have a bro that is an ace mechanic if I get in too deep. I'm with B on the reliability thing. I hate mechanical suprises.

Solidsnake, the tube should have a cap in it closer to the radiator cap.

I don't know about praying ot the pathy gods but with a reciprocating saw and a handful of bi-metal blades and you will see the light of day. Hack every thing up to the flange connection for the pipe with the O2 sensor. It all trash anyway. Wear some safety glasses or better yet goggles there Pizanio.

More than likely it's a broken exhaust stud and the exhaust manifold has warped. Pretty common problem for pathys. Header install isn't to big a deal but removing any and all broken exhaust studs can be a MAJOR PITA. The water jackets are extremely close to the stud holes and much of any deviation in drilling to remove them is where the real fun usually starts. Pacesetter and Thorley make after market headers for pathys mated to a Flowmaster 40 or 50 series muffler will give you a little "throat" to your exhuast sound. Your factory emissions junk should work with either header manufacturer. JMO Mike

Now that's a bumper! Dang!

Judas Priest nice action photos guys! I'd say there's a couple of us out there that can turn a tire in the bush.

What about epoxy appliance paint? You might be limited in color though, I'm not sure if BMW made an avacado green or not. I used the gloss black on the restoration of my 750 kaw triple. The big box home improvement stores should carry it. JMTC Mike

Wow, did you see this on feebay! Item no. 4561485016. '92 XE opening price $6.00 and no reserve. Man is this the spirit of free enterprise and allowing the market to drive the price of goods or what? This is obviously an experienced seller not a first time green horn. I wish them well. You guys in Cali might take a look.

5-30 M1 since day one. No smoke no leaks. I clicked 149K on my '91 over the weekend.

My '91's MT is dry as well.

Thanks for all the insite. I knew you could buy belts in incremental length differences. I was just hoping someone already had some other possible belt numbers. So I guess when this one starts to squeel I'll be starting a little R&D project for either a shorter belt or an alternator bracket shrinker. Mike

I changed the v-belts on my 'finder ('91 V6) over the holiday. Is it just me or is replacement alt. belt too long. The parts house matched up the same belt number that I had on there. I swear I'm at the end of the tensioner's limit after I installed it. And no I didn't over tighten it it has about 3/4-1" of deflection on the longest run between pullies. It's not slipping but I haven't put enough miles on it to break it in yet either. Just wondering. Mike

Way black with sooth, oil, other???

Holy Freakin' cow. :cool2: No kidding a tool in the tire changing bag! Man I'm just like everyone else you have to stand on your head and spit out silver dollars, braek you hnd in three places to change that plug. I'll have to check tool bag. I have crafted a sparkplug removal tool vai some extesions a wobble joint and some duct tape. Not pretty but its effective. Run platnium plugs and your good for a looooooooong time between changes. Mike

Been there done this one as well. I'm on my third starter. OEM worked for 12 years. First aftermarket worked for 1 month. Second aftermarker still working. You might have suspect repacement starter. My second aftermarket starter has not exhibited these symptoms (knock on wood). I have felt your pain. You might also check the little rubber-booted electrical connection at the starter (my '91s is red or orangeish colored). If that's loose it might ellicit the same symptoms. Good luck to ya. Mike

Dang, I feel like a dumbarse. Thanks Pezzy.

O.K I give up where is the new discussion by model year forum? Sorry for being technilogically challenged. I some times have a hard time with a rubber band and a peanut shell. LOL. Mike

You Da' Man 88! Thanks for all your efforts! Mike

I did the MAF sensor cleaning thing this weekend. For those of you have done theirs, did you see much gunk on yours? Mine looked whistle clean except for some grey deposits on the posts holding the wires. Just curious. I'll fill 'er up and see if I made any improvements. Mike

Jason, my MPG numbers were almost identical to APC's after my repair. My stealer's tech described it to me this way. With the exhaust leak ahead of the O2 sensor you are drawing in more fresh air at the leak(s) and there by artifically leaning out the exhaust gas that the O2 sensor is detecting. The O2 sensor in turn is telling the motor it needs more fuel and ta da! your MPG goes in the crapper. I'm no techno genius but the theory seems to hold water. Others that are more savy regarding engine management systems on these rigs will fill in the blanks that I left out. Oh and $125 clams for stud removal is not to shabby. Next, I'm going to try 88's MAF sensor trick to see if I can squeeze a couple of more MPG's out of my rig. Happy Camping! Mike

Retorque after about 50 mi.

Thinking more last night, something that I would also consider doing prior to installing your headers is wrapping them with high heat tape. Somebody makes a header insulating tape. The high temp paint that came on the headers from Pacesetter will last about 30 seconds once the pipes are heated up. And if you think the 1200 degree rattlecan paint is any better, it isn't. By wrapping the headers prior to installation you will keep the temps in the exhaust gases in the headers as high as possible which will improve performance. Meaning the exhaust gases will flow faster and easier if they are hotter thereby letting the motor breath more freely. And the starter and other things will be kept cooler because of the insulation as well. JMO Mike

Call Pacesetter and confirm you have the right header set for your application (e.g. year, A/T, M/T). They will fax install instructions if you didn't get them with your kit. Don't ask me how I know this. The bunges on the driver side header are more than likely for the EGR circuit. At least one should be. I'm sorry I can't be more definate since I have a '91 V6. Another thing to stongly consider is to "round file" the exhaust manifold gaskets that came with the kit and up grade to some Fel-Pro gray graphite colored ones. Stock O2 sensor should work with the header set fine. Mike