M in KC

Nope that's normal. Your oil light ought to have illuminated for a couple of seconds until the oil pressure switch is made as well. Check for leaks and proper fill level and you should be golden.

Maybe a dumb and too late of a comment but was the old oil filter's o-ring present on the old oil filter when you removed it? They can become adhered to the filter mount location. And in your first post you said the oil was horrendous which to me would indicate the oil and filter had been on that motor for some time. If that was the case the old filter's o-ring seal could still be on the filter mount and when the new filter was screwed on it leaks. Just a thought. Additionally I have heard of oil filter that have split, cracked or in k9sar's case pin holed and subsequently caused a leak.

May be I missed it but do these install on the inside or the outside of the window? Is it possible to do either or? I would prefer inside.

CRC makes an aersol MAF sensor cleaner available at most parts house for about $6. Follow the destruction on the can. I just used this on my '91 last weekend as well as a thorough scrubbing of the TB. It feels smoother now. Tough to say which made it smoother. I will check for mileage improvements at the next opportunity.

Unless I missed in this thread what's your air filter look like? What did the old spark plugs look like. Do they replace your MAF with a new one, remaned one or a used one?

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I pull my 20' glass I/O with my pathy all the time. The only issue I ever had was in Arkansas after we stopped at the lake house prior to launching the boat (dumb driver). There are some pretty good hills near the lake. I had to slip her into 4lo and she walked the boat right on up. My new preferred towing vehicle is my '03 Sequoia. I know, not much of a comparison between the Pathy and the Sequoia, but we hauled 6 motorcycles in a 26' enclosed trailed from KC to Deals Gap, NC and this thing was a dream. Towing that long of a trailer has given me a whole new appreciation for the professional drivers on our roads. I was suprised as to the amount of total vehicle ossicilation that I felt from the air coming off other vehicles as they passed us.

FWIW, I just put a Prodigy trailer brake controller on my Sequoia. Extremely nice unit. I've have a Draw-Tite receiver hitch on my '91 'finder since darn near new. No issues. Shoot one of Slick's confidiants installed it for me back in the day as well. Go U-Haul! I only wish I opted for the 2" receiver. There are just more attachments for the 2" rather than the 1 1/2". And Yes I know there is an adapter. Hit the Search button my friend.

My vote would be O2 sensor as well. But if you decide to replace the O2 sensor don't buy an universal fits-all unit. Make darn sure you get the right one for your application. As I recall our O2 sensors are the three wired-type. But what ever it is replace it with a like sensor or you're liable to have additional issues. Did you clean the throttle body and MAF sensor as per the stickie in the garage section as well? An old tooth brush a can of carb choke cleaner (I prefer Napa's Mac aerosol solution) and scrub the inlet to the throttle body it will eventually load up with carbon. The MAF sensor cleaning is a much, much more depecate cleaning process using isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip. Both of these services will improve drive ability. If you consider doing these (assuming they weren't done by yourself or your mechanics) I'd suggest doing prior to changing your O2 sensor. Again if you choose to change the sensor that is. No sense in guming up the new sensor with some of the gunk that's liable to find it's way though the combustion process. Let us know how you come out. M

You need either the spark plug removal tool originally supplied with your vehicle (yeah I know ...) or one 3" extension, one 6" extenstion and wobble joint and your ratchet. I think my solution is spark plug socket, 6" extension, wobble, 3" extension, ratchet. No doubt it is a biotch to get out but can be done. My suggestion for the good of society is to but a little tape (electrical, duct, masking, etc) on the socket connection to the extension and wobble so the whole contraption stays intact upon insertion and subsequent removal. It took me one time of retreiving all my setup between the fire wall and the block to say "this ain't gonna happen again". Also I have found that a slightly warm motor makes the plugs come out easier rather than a stone cold motor.

I run the platinum plugs because of their longevity. And I hate the thought of replacing the #6 plug the bastage that it is. I have never had a fouled plug in my pathgrider copper or platimium (that is until now). No more Simon Sez comments, sorry for the visual k9. M Out

I've ran both Bosch and NGK Platniums. I haven't expereinced any performance gains between either plug. And as Simon sez, (snickers to self) I haven't seen any performance improvements with the multi-tipped platniums over the standard platniums either. Currently I'm running Bosch +2's and still run consistently at 19-21 mpg in mixed driving environments. My pathgrinder is my daily driver unless the weather is good then I'm on my motorsickle. Remember to change your plugs when the engine, more importantly the heads are warm to the touch, use compressed air to blow all the cack out of the spark plug wells prior to removal and use some anti-seize on the threads prior to re-installation and don't over tighten them.

Mr. P where did you come up with the diamond plated rocker panels at? Custom job or off the shelf. I like it.

IMO, pitch it and replace with new.

Not to pile onto a debate that will be around as long as there are competitors in either the oil or filter markets but .... Staying with Benards's comments regarding filteration here are some uncomissioned oil fliter analysiss. They may be reposted inforamtion and if so I'm sorry for that. But they are interesting to read if that's all that you do with it. All oil will eventually breakdown but I'm a believer in filtering out as much of the cack out as you can along the way. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterst...ilterstudy.html And for peeps who shelf the cage every now and again where is one for MC filters. http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/mychoices.shtml

I've got the model in Gotrek's last post before this. It works I guess. You can't put your super slurpie drinks in there but a moderate sized coffe cup or can of soda works fine. I have a M/T and I thought I'd be screwed with the long throws of the shifter but there is just enough distance between my hand and the cup holder when shifting. The kind you hang on the inside of the door I always forget when my beverage is hanging there and when I close my door my steering wheel gets a bath along with my floor mat. The '91's do sork for holding beverages.

I haven't done this nor do I need to to this but I'm guessing that you're going to need a good can of penetrating oil for the removal of yours and whatever donor vehicle you find. PB Blaster is pretty good and widely available. Don't be afraid to spary too much. If you plant to remove the bumper(s) with wrenches or sockets I'd start soaking your bumper mounting hardware as soon as you can. The more time before you but a wrench on it the better. Don't be suprized if the nuts and bolts break while removing or the need for a flame wrench to remove them. If room permits a nut splitter might be handy, a dremel tool or right angle grinder fitted with a cutoff wheel. I wouldn't be too concerned about the condition of the nuts and bolts during or after removal, for fasteners are relatively cheap. So if they get fubared in the removal process big deal.

I don't know about your '97 but my '91 is only a 2 wheel alignment and its a 4X4 as well. My rear axle is solid and I'm pretty sure your's is as well. Aligning these rigs is not the easiest to do even with a good shop. So watch how she rolls when you're off the rack. And have the shop explain why you would need a 4 wheel alignment given the fact that you have a solid rear axle. That ought to be interesting.

buy for person. Round Tuits, Passenger Noise Reducers, Muffler Bearings, Blinker Fluid and that impossible to find Flux Capacitor. Get your Christmas shopping out of way now. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

As we've all come to expect nicely done mws. PS what are you throwin' down on in your avitar?

I've been running 5W 30 Mobil 1 since the first oil change some 16 years and 175,000 ago. No leakage, no burning and from what I can see in side the valve cover at oil change time it appears to be whistle clean. I had a slight consumption of oil back 10-12,000 miles ago. I SeaFoamed my motor and the consumption stopped. I'd say my valve guide seals are reaching the useful end of their serivce. Still runs like a top and knocks down 18-20 mpg with mixed driving conditions. Not to shabby for a 16 year old daily driver.

If the oil leak is only attributed to the screw coming loose and retightening it solves the leak then I would clean the screw and hole well and blue Locktite it. You might consider a split or lock washer in addition to the Locktite.

I didn't have to relocate my oil filter with my Pacesetters. It's still a little PITA and you end up dribbling some oil on your starter.

Jim, Welcome back to Your House. I want to extend my gratitude to you for your efforts here. The Mods that are in place have done very good job in your absence. Your heart-felt words regarding the maintenace of the site are a testiment to one of your passions in life and to your character and integrity. The site has survived and we all know you will get things sorted as soon as you can. Don't sweat the small stuff. And it's all small stuff. We're all big boys and girls here. Don't make any excusses for anything. You have to look out for number 1 first. Everything else will fall into line soon enough. Wishing you all the success at you so truly deserve. And again Welcome Home.

MWS, go to NAPA and ask for an air pipe repair kit for a GM application. They should recogize the kit simply by the request. Otherwise it should be for a '80's model of something. It should have stainless steel clamps, a piece of stainless steel tubing and a chunk of the "magic" silicone hose in 1/2" and I think 3/4" ids. I think the kit was like $22. It's been a couple of years since I did mine. I don't have a Cali model and the Show-Me State doesn't require annal probing of the tail pipe. Yet. Try a Napa P/N: EXH35574. The kit will be something like this. I didn't keep any part number specific notes for my application which will likely be different than yours. But at least you will have a starting point if this is the route you end up taking. M