M in KC

http://www.nissanpathfinders.com/Solution2.pdf Can't make it any simplier than this.

Yes you have to remove the instrument cluster to access the voltage regulator. A few screws and putty knife to pry the top edge of the cluster out from under the dash. It shouldn't be a big deal. I can't help you on the HVAC controls but I presuming they are vaccum driven. While you are there keep disassembling the dash panels to access the HVAC controls as well. Maybe something(s) have become disconnected. As faith would have it I have an intermittenat HVAC illumination issue as well. So far I have just lived with it as my selectors still work.

Sorry try here. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...ltage+regulator

See if your voltage regulator behind your instrument cluster hasn't failed. Pretty common issue on our gen 'finders. I think there is a how-to in WD-21 section. It's about a 30 minute project IIRC when I did mine a couple of years back.

Unless you are going to change your own fluids or tell the shop to change the diff fluid odds are it won't get done. All the wheels spin freely when off the ground (e.g. dragging brake pads with spent brake pad dust on the pins)? Tire alignment? Tire pressure?

Kitt, I hav e used POR 15 with excellent results as have others on motorcycle forum that I frequent for gas tank preservation on vintage motocyles. I have no complains with the the fuel tank preservation products and I would think their other products would be just as good. Word of caution don't get it on anything that you don't want to paint as the only way off is with abrasives.

Somebody did a top notch "how-to" on this a while back. I'll have to search you do the same. Good pics, good instructions just a nice job overall.

Crazy, you could throw a pitch gauge on the new O2 sensor and determine the size bung you will need to replace the orignial one with.

The exhaust gasket is not normally the part that fails it's the exhaust manifold itself in addition to one or more of the exhaust manifold studs. Normally you can see carbon/soot where the exhasut manifold has failed. You may have to remove some of the heat shileds from the exhaust manifold if they are still present to get a good look at things. I have used Lucas' products in my pathgrinder without issue.

That will probably be the right approach initially as a new replacement sending unit approaches $300 USD. Ouch. Thanks for your input.

Simon what were your symptoms (I'm assuming they were fuel gauge related) that you cured by relocate the ground wire?

Westslope did you ever get this sorted? I think my sending unit or at least the float is partially filled with fuel causing my gauage to read 3/4 full even after I have topped off the tank. I don't have the erratic reading like you described just a perpetually low reading.

Well, I guess the valve covers could be another source but this motor has never used or lost a drop of oil since new. I'll check on the vent as soon as the weather breaks. We're staring down barrel of triple digit heat here in the midwest with opressive humidity. It's just to friggin hot to mess with it now. As always I do appreciate your insight. This board and its members is one of the reasons I choose to keep my pathgrinder in my stable.

B, I'll check the vent tube again but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary there. Yeah, I did the rear main seal, new flywheel, new pressure plate, throw out bearing, u-joint, exhaust from the headers back (minus cat) oh and a new battery to boot. Everything that got touched either got replaced because we were there or it simply fell apart. I guess I shouldn't have to high of expectations as it's 17 years old.

For those of you who have replaced a clutch on a 5-speed WD21 did you notice any gear lube in the electrical connectors on the gear box? Everyone of mine had some in it. No adverse performance as a result of the lube before or after the clutch job. I was just wondering. And if so what was your remedy? What a PITA it is replacing a clutch is on these pigs. I guess I'm good for another 186K though. Cheers, M

Forscipes on the hose in to and out of the filter to minimize fuel spillage. And like Simon I use the plier method. Sometimes you just have to cut the old hose off and replace it. The pathy's fuel filter is easier to replace than the 4th gen. Maximas. They are a chore.

Spark plugs are not that big a deal. You can change 1-5 in 20-25 minutes. #6 as referenced can be a challenge. A couple of 6" extension, and a univeral joint and you should be good to go. Take your time. Use compressed air to dislodge any cack in the spark plug well prior to removal. Use some antiseize on the threads prior to reinsertion. Plugs, cap, rotor, and scrub out the TBI. I think there is a sticky on the TBI cleaning. There is nothing unique to changing plugs in our pathy's. Welcome and enjoy!

Good for you, everyone should do this. It's a 30 minute job at most. A small shop vac and a shot or two of compressed air on the resistor pack to get all the leaf bits out. While you didn't show a pic of your switch/resistor pack in the plenium I'm sure it was loaded with debris as well.

You might try and Sea-Foam you engine. I did mine a year or so ago and wa-la no smokeage. My motor is tight as a drum otherwise. I'm not normally a believer or a subscriber to the "snake oils" on the shelf but this one worked for me. Follow the destruction on the can. If you're willing to to replace the valve guide seals this may save you a couple of hundred bucks if it works, it it doesn't just add $5.00 for your valve guide seal job.

red finder has it right in my book. A two person effort initially. Since I have a bug smacker on my hood it adds additional weight to my hood and subsequently the spring can't quite push the hood up when the latch is released. What I have found is that the two black rubber hood stops on the rad support must vibrate out of adjustment and subsequently let the hood lower farther down than what you need and then the spring really can't function as it's intended it. So once you do get the hood open try unscrewing or screwing these hood stops a little to use them as a "preload" for when you pull on the release lever. What I have found with mine is if my hood is level and square with my quarter panels my hood opens every time even with the bug smacker. Mind you it doesn't jump to attention but it does unlatch. Once you do get it open, clean all the crud out of the latch mechanism and lube her up real good.

IMO, you can't go wrong with the stepped band clamp.

After a mere 185,500+ miles my original clutch is fading away. Oh what joy lies ahead for me.

My symptoms were consistant with what denisb describes with a failed voltage regulator in my '91 and denisb is right again a couple of bucks and an hour of your time. The orignial one will fail eventually.

PB Blaster, Kroil works well but is hard to find and SeaFoam's Dep Creep. When all that fails a small shape charge. k9sar, I think you can buy Blaster by the gallon or half-gallon and put it in a mister bottle if you don't like aersols.

For stubborn bolts/nuts heat them to near cherry red if you can and touch them with a candle. Let the heat draw the wax in do this a couple of times and Ta Da off comes the nut or out comes the bolt. Additionally if you are cutting wire usually inside the cab and you don't want small copper peices left after cutting, place a small dab of rtv in the throat of you wire cutters. The waste will be adhered there in the rtv and won't go flying or fall into your carpet or seat.