M in KC

I 've heard the Kids n Pet stuff works really well. It's nice to get someone you trust to defend it. I have an '03 Sequoia (I know it's brand T), that a grocery sack of meat got left in for let's say about a week. Can you say yummie? I to have tried in vain to ge the stench out with little success. Off to Wally World or Target for some enzymes. And since my 'finder doubles as my huntin' rig it can get pretty fowled out as well but nothing like 10-15 lbs of rotting beef and pork. :oops: M

Fortunately or unfortunately I've got you beat here 141K and change on the original equipment pads front and back. Ya a bunch of highway miles but offset with some towing of my 20' I/O boat. I don't engine brake much but I do employ the "go for green" phlisophy when driving in town. Attemptng to intentionally not use my brakes between stop lights. Granted it's probably easier with a MT than an auto. M

Ditto to Simon's post. I wondered where these two guys have been. Usually they are Johnny on the Spot when peeps have a question or a problem. But w/o or with limited web access it's like that part of the libary of knowledge is locked. No dis to the others that chime in with their words of wisdom. Call the fee what you will Call it a passion fee. Afterall we are all passionate owners of the red-headed stepchildern of the 4X4 community. Another thought to raise $$ for site maintainance/ admin is by selling something(s) on ebay though the board or individually 'finder related or not and then deposit the funds into the NPORA account. Dunno it's just a thought. We do this on another board and it seems to work out. Ya I know its a coordinated effort and everything. And there is always an annual fee for use approach. M

Get at least a 5-10 lb extinguisher anything smaller and you'll just have a paperweight. Purple K is a good extinguisant. The extinguisher will have a "k" in a purple/magenta square on the extinguisher. Other wise an ABC extinguisher is what you're after. How to operate P.A.S.S. P= pull pin. I know this sounds stupid but I can't tellyou how many people I've trained to use an extinguisher who race up to the fire and forget to pull the pin. A= aim. Aim at the base of the fire. Yes I know the top of the flames are tempting but aim at the base of the fire. This is where the fuel is and that is what you are trying to cool, oxygen strave or encapsulate depending on the extinguishing media. S= squeeze. Yes again people magically thing the extinguishing media flows out of the extinguisher on it's own after the pin has been pulled. S= Sweep. Sweep the extinguisher from side to side at the base fo the fire. Always, always stay between the fire and your exit should you not be succesful in your incipient stage fire fighting. Check the silly thing(s) every few months to make sure the gauage is reading charged. Anything under fulling charged get it recharged or buy new. Slightly over charged is O.K. And once a year take a rubber mallet and give the cylinder a a couple of raps to make sure the powder stays free-flowing. Temperature extremes and constant vibration can make the powder pack down in an extinguisher over time. This Public Service Announce has been brought to you by the fine folks at Fingerless Phil's Fireworks Emporium, who invite you to come bang with the gang on the next Independence Day. M

Slick you're killin' me over here with your explanation/description of splines! You go girl! Sometimes you even make me feel inadequate and I consider myself fairly mechanically inclined. You're the goods babe keep it up! Can we get a Jack and Coke for the lady please.? M

'88 the bio sez '90 but Ryda should confirm. It would eliminate some confusion. Ryda where you at ....

Would a quick and dirty way of checking for spark off the coil not be to unplug the coil wire at the distrtibutor cap and lay it along side something conductive and check for the spark to jump from the end of the wire to the metal source? I essentially do this on my motorsickle when I trouble shoot iggy problems there. M

I did the same thing to a '79 Dodge Aspen SE non-the-less with a slant six. Wow now I have exposed myslef here. Bigger filter more filtering surface, more oil, more heat disipation it worked for me in this application. So long as you can get it on and off it's all good. Oh don't change a head gaskets on a slant six or anyother vehicle after a case of courage from the fine folks at Anheiser-Busch. -alcohol- If you miss torqueing just one head bolt would you believe the head would warp a few weeks after it was serviced. :o Who would of thunk that. Keepin' the boy and girls at A/B on overtime this holiday season... M

I'll see your floor mat and raise you a fuel pump. Now my mom is pretty resourceful. But she did have a momentary lapse like all of us do from time to time. She sez my car starts and then just stops. Mind you this is a '74 Buick Century. For you youngens it has a carberator and a mechanical fuel pump driven off a lobe on the camshaft. So anyways my mom's pretty savy and she is adimit it is the fuel pump. OK. So trusting your mother's judgement you replace the fuel pump. All be it the end of November in Nebraska and outside. A couple of hours later Dad and I have the new fule pump in. Crank it over and the same result starts and dies shortly there after. Did this routine a couple of times and I just happened to look at the dash. Son of a _ _ _ _ _, there wasn't any gas in the tank. Moral of this story, always always check the simple things first. Floor mats, fuel, fuses, and on and on and on. Ya it's histerical now but I was not a happy camper then. M

This was covered a couple of weeks back. The consense was as I recall to stop all forward motion before engaging 4 wheel drive. While I'm sure you can shift on the fly into 4 wheel drive it's just easier on the system if you're not moving. I will shift out of 4 wheel drive on the fly and have never expeienced the horrendous clunk that you are talking about when going into 4 wheel drive while rolling. I bought my 'finder new in '91 and it has always clunked into 4 wheel drive while in motion. So I just stop and lock it in and roll on. Keep the shiney side up! M PS and as Animal sez you might have to service your hubs.

"Neutral" will be your friend. Take the power of the wheels going down hills, make no abrupt changes in speed or direction and yes these short wheel based vehicles can come around quick. I have had to dumb*hits do the headlight -taillight pirouette in front of me in the last 10 days. Both promptly found their way to a ditch of their choice. The one spinning out of control coming at me last night was a real treat since I had the wife's Maxima and it was snowing like a banshee. Yep it's the same snow you will be getting or have already gotten. Super dry powderie stuff with just a hint of ice under it. These vehicles are very capable but they are not bullet-proof. Keep the shiney side up! M

FL, man I'm not trying to rain on your parade because your plates look very stout and they should take a good pounding but if you didn't block a back wheel when you got your rig on those ramps ... The parking brakes on these things are marginal at best. I just don't want to hear of a fellow board member being injuried needlessly. Afterall who then would be our resident thread liberian. Any time someone is looking for a topic, you're all over it! Sorry if I'm sounding like a prude it's just my Risk Management background coming out. M

These under powered pigs of motors need to exhale better. Even with all the fitment/quality issues associated with the Pacesetters they are by far better than stock exhaust manifolds. I noticed performance gains both in power and efficiency. I'm sure the Thorley's are a better quality product than the Pacesetter but that's not what this thread is about. The way I see it if you have to replace a stock exhaust manifold because it's cracked or exhaust manifold studs because they are broken you are already there and you might as well take a performance upgrade by installing headers whos ever brand they are. When I did the costing on mine a few years back it was as cheap or cheaper to hang headers rather than replace the stock exhaust manifolds. Having run headers and stock exhaust manifolds, I won't be going back to stock exhaust manifolds ever. When my crappie Pacesetter give up the ghost I'll put some of Doug's pipes on and keep on driven'. It was an easy decision for me, but to each their own. JMTC M

Ele, been there done that with the Pacemakers. Unfortunatly I bought mine before I found this board. Once you get them on things will get better. Something to watch out for are the slip joints leading to the "Y" pipe. If you don't weld these joints the cheeseball clamps they give you in the kit will not keep the joints tight. Nor will HD pipe clamps. Again it's a fittment issue. Warner or Wagner makes a stepped exhaust pipe clamp available through Summit Racing and others I'm sure. Get two of these if you don't weld the joints they are the goods. Otherwise that annoying exhaust leak will still be there. Do a search for the clamp here. I as well as other have posted it. Conider replacing your O2 sensor will the installer is down there if it wasn't been replaced recently. I know it's more $$$ but they do have a certain life expectancy. M

Dennis love your detailed write up on replacing the voltage regulator for the fuel/temp gauge issue. I can't wait (wait a second, I can to) to give it a go on my '91. My regulator up and left on me last night. :furious: M

Something(s) is contributing to this condition. I'm just lucky we don't have smog checks where I live in the midwest, yet. I still live in an attainment area as per the Clean Air Act. However, I still demand that my vehicles perform at optimum levels. Please post if you find something(s) on your deep dive. Here's to ya! M

I don't know about that specific module but I think the consesous on the board is to send your ecu to Wolf Engineering for reprogramming if you're thinking out electronic enhancements for engine performance. Do search there have been a few threads mentioning this modification. M

They are in Michigan, not Missouri, still a boat laod to ship. M

Cool enough.

Slick did you ever get this sorted? I've got the same symptoms on a '91 V6 with MT. I've done the obvious fixes just like you. Mine seems more intermittent. M

P1 is probably the man here for bit recommendations with his machine shop knowledge, but I used left handed titanium coated 135 degree bits. Center punch the studs first, start small and work your way up, tape an approriate depth on the drill bits so as to not go too deep. Slow, straight and steady are the orders of the day. And of course the penetrating oil of your choice. We're all pullin' for ya. R. Green M

I'm truly sorry to hear about your lose. You're in my thoughts and prayers.

Personally I don't think an extra think gasket will get you very far. You need the binding pressure from the fasteners (studs, washers and nuts in this case) to seal the exhaust manifold so it doesn't leak. With broken studs you have no way to apply adequate pressure to the manifold and then to the head. In addition to the junk studs that Nissan used in this application the stock passenger side exhaust manifold has a design flaw in it that contibutes to cracks in the manifold and .... you guessed it more exhaust leaks. Yeah! I don't want to keep piling on but you need to know as much as the rest of do for this problem so that you can make informed decisions. M

There are aftermarket headers avaiable for your motor. Thorley and Pacesetter make sets. I have the Pacesetters. I think the general consenses is Thorleys are better quality than the Pacesetters. Anywho, the Pacesetters use the same bolt pattern as the stock manifolds. I can't speak for the Thorleys. But I suppose if you're handy with a plasma cutter and a welder you could cut the flange off and make it what ever configuration you needed and weld it back on. You will pick up a few ponies with whatever manufacturer you go with on headers. And on these under powered motors the more horses the better. JMTC M

I'm unaware if they make a reverse bolt pattern maniflod. Broken exhaust manifold studs are a common occurance in this vintage of Pathfinder. You can use heat, left handed drill bits, right handed drill bits and screw extractors, and your choice of penetrating oil and remove them with the head on the motor. It can be done but it will be a PITA. The word of caution is the water jacket for the head is very close to the stud holes. One miss guided drill bit and you'll get to take the head off. One other potential option is heli-arc. But I can't remember is the heads are cast iron or aluminum. It's been a while since I've done mine. If the heads are aluminum a machine shop might be able to heli-arc the studs out. Basically, the steel will melt and literally run out of the aluminum like water. I've had this done on motorcycle cylinders before it's slick. It won't trash the threads in the head either if it's aluminum. Other than that I'm out of answers. Nissan did have kind of a half arsed recall on these studs but I doubt any stealership will own up to it and admitt it. I think their criterial was like less than 100K miles. I think you will need the ZX 300 exhaust manifold studs when you get these out. I'm sure other will chime in since many of us have been throughthe same thing. M